王者之路，耐力与耐心的挑战

树叉儿

A Visit with The Emperor - Mt Robson, Infinite Patience
罗布森峰-王者之路-耐力与耐心的挑战

One of the great contradictions of climbing writing is that the bigger and deeper the experience the more difficult they tend to be to write about. Soloing the Emperor Face is one of those experiences that can’t be fully summarized in a few paragraphs, but it was such an awe-inspiring climb that it would also be a shame to not even try to write about it while it’s still fresh in my mind.

对我而言，关于攀登写作的最大矛盾点之一就是经验越丰富，反而越觉得无从下笔。独自攀登罗布森峰的王者之路（Emperor Face）线路就正是这样一种体验，若只用简单的几段文字去描写整个攀登的过程，这种难度要大过于攀登这条线路本身。但是，又正是因为这条线路的攀登让我肃然起敬，所以，如果不趁着每一步都还历历在目时将这样的经历记录下来，实在会是一种遗憾。

（编者注：罗布森峰，海拔4042米，位于加拿大大不列颠哥伦比亚省东部，地形复杂、天气变化无常，据统计登顶率只有10%。来源网络，加拿大人民可以来校对一下 ）

The Canadian Rockies are an intimidating place to climb alone; the mountains are big and remote with oftentimes loose rock of course zero infrastructure or cell reception if something were to go awry. Another characteristic of the Rockies is that in my mind the best time to climb here is in the Spring, Winter or Fall, the main reason being that in these seasons the gullies tend to be much less melted out, the rock more frozen together and the scenery to be the most spectacular in general. Many of the faces are likely easier and faster to climb with less snow, but there is always the danger of falling rock and the mountain faces often appear less healthy in their state of  dryness and summer ice recession.

独自在加拿大落基山脉中攀登是一种足以让人生畏的体验。巨大的山峰矗立在人迹罕至的荒野中，山体岩石松碎，完全没有任何人为的基础设施，而一旦出现问题时，想要拨通电话寻求救援则基本是白日梦。但这些并不足以影响我的攀登，在我看来，攀登加拿大落基山脉最好季节是春季、冬季或者秋季。原因很简单，因为在这三个季节中，隘谷中的冰雪还未融化，山体上松碎的岩石也依然被冻在一起；另外，风景在这三个季节中也是最让人难忘的。在有雪的时候，很多线路反而会变得更容易攀登，但这并不等于说就不存在落石的风险，在夏季干旱和少冰的时候，山体的整体状况会变得很差。

My first attempt to climb alone in the Rockies was during a -35 cold snap on the Columbia Icefields in November of 2014. Being my first experience in the Canadian Rockies I had little idea of what to expect when I started up Mt Andromeda’s ‘Shooting Gallery’, and I was treated to a rather frightful concoction of downward sloping frozen cubes of choss masked beneath six inches of powder snow and a complete lack of ice in the couloir. Unable to climb down, and unable to construct an anchor in the compact rock to retreat, I was forced to continue climbing un-roped for 30 meters through what felt like a terrible nightmare. I used my tools to loosen and chop away some of the cubes of frozen rock, and use the small edges left behind to hook with my tools and stand on with my front points, the entire time wondering if I were going to skate off of the insecure holds, trembling with fear. Luckily I eventually reached a thin flaring seam into which I hammered two brass nuts that held for long enough for me to bail back down the couloir before hitching a ride to Jasper.

我在落基山脉的第一次独自攀登是在2014年11月份，零下35度寒流袭击了我当时所在的哥伦比亚冰原。当在开始攀登Andromeda峰的“射击场（Shooting Gallery）”路线时，我对自己接下来所将要经历的困境毫无任何防备。我当时被困在一段向下倾斜的陡坡上，线路上的粉雪达到近15厘米厚，雪下布满了松碎的石块，本应有雪的雪沟里也是光秃一片，只有岩石。我根本无法下撤，更无法找到稳固的地方设置保护站。在被迫无路的情况下，我不得不徒手向上攀登了30米左右，整个过程如噩梦一般。我用随身携带的攀登装备撬松以及敲掉一些冰冻的碎石，从而得到一些小片的平台可以用于保护自己，有些平台小到只能使用冰爪的前齿站住，在这段噩梦中，我一直都因恐惧而在发抖，怀疑自己会从这些“平台”上瞬间滑落下去。幸运的是，我最终发现了一处宽缝，在打入了两个牢固的岩塞后，我终于能将自己解救到没有雪的雪沟中，并最终下撤，搭车回到Jasper国家公园。

Since then, while building experience climbing with partners on Rockies alpine routes, I wondered to myself if I had built up the experience and technical skill to venture out again solo. Each route I did in the Rockies, even with a strong partner, felt as if it took me to my metal limits and always I was relieved to have a trustworthy and talented partner to share the difficult leads and strenuous trail breaking with.

这段噩梦般的经历使我和搭档在之后落基山脉进行阿式攀登训练时变得更加谨慎。每次攀登时我都会问自己的经验和能力是否都已经达到了独自攀登的水平。我在落基山脉里攀登的每一条线路，即使是和能力很强的搭档一起，也都使我感到已经接近了我的能力极限。我很感激那段时光中与我一起搭档的挚友，不管是在人品还是在能力上，他都让我尊敬。在我无法完成的路段多亏有他能先锋突破。

Between March 25 and April 11 of this year I climbed four alpine routes with my Slovenian friend and climbing partner Luka Lindic, three of them first ascents in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Each time we climbed another route I could feel that my familiarity and confidence with the Rockies unique style of mixed climbing was becoming stronger. Our final route, a spectacular mixed route on the North face of Neptuak Mountain left me feeling charged with energy and mentally prepared to tackle some of my solo goals. Luka’s girlfriend was arriving on the 13th and their plan was to travel and rock climb together, leaving me a window to try my solos while feeling mentally prepared, fit and with good weather in the forecast. Sometime the stars just align.

在今年三月十五号和四月十一号期间，我和我的好友同时也是攀登搭档，来自斯洛文尼亚的Luka Lindic一起完成了四条阿式路线，其中有三条位于十峰峡谷中的路线是首登。我们攀登的每一条线路都能让我感受到自己在落基山脉中使用独特的训练方式以及在混合地形上所获得的熟练和自信。四条线路中的最后一条是攀登Neptuak峰的北面，这是一条可以用叹为观止去形容的混合地形路线。面对她的时候让我感觉充满力量与斗志，在完成这条线路后，我觉得自己离实现独自攀登的梦想又更近了一步。Luka的女友在十三号也赶了过来，他俩的计划是一起攀岩旅行，同时也在好的窗口期为状态和斗志都在熊熊燃烧的我留出时间去独自完成一些攀登目标。有些时候，幸福的确来得如此圆满和突然。

As usual I did not have a car to get myself to the mountains, but this would present few problems thanks to public transportation and the good old tactic of sticking out the thumb on the side of the highway.

我没有车，和以往一样，没法自己开车进山，但这并未对我造成任何麻烦，当地的公共交通以及传统的沿途拇指搭车都帮我解决了这个所谓的难题。

First on the list was to re-visit Andromeda to see if I was indeed better prepared to tackle the mountain solo. I took a shuttle bus going from Banff to Jasper and the driver happened to be a skier and climber who invited me up into the passenger seat where we chatted about mountains and conditions before dropping me off at the Columbia Icefields. There I set up a cozy camp in the thin trees just off the road and nicely hidden from view, in almost the exact same place I had a year and a half previous.

我写在攀登清单上的第一站是Andromeda峰，因为这是一座能很好检验我是否具备独自攀登能力的山峰。我搭乘大巴从班夫去到Jasper国家公园，碰巧大巴司机也是一名滑雪和攀登者，他邀请我坐到他旁边，我们一路愉快地畅谈着各自对山峰和攀登的认识和感受。在达到哥伦比亚冰原的时候，我下了车，在离路边不远的森林里扎了营，这里也正是我一年半以前停留的地方。

I did not have any sort of phone, clock or technology with me aside from an MP3 player and my headphones. I decided that I would rely on my intuition in order to wake up and start climbing at the right time. After exploring the fantastic moraines and glacial streams running from the toe of the Athabasca Glacier I went to bed early to get plenty of rest as I had only taken one full rest day since getting out from Valley of the Ten Peaks with Luka.
除了一部MP3播放器和耳机，我没有携带任何通信，计时器或其它任何科技设备。为了在合适的时间起来并开始攀登，我决定依靠自己的直觉。在徒步穿越了阿萨巴斯卡冰川上的一些冰川河及冰塔林后，我很早就休息了，充足的休息现在对我来说很重要，因为和Luka在十峰峡谷完成所有的线路后到现在，我只休息了一个整天。

During the night I woke up two or three times and glance toward the eastern horizon to look for a sign of predawn. The third time I felt rested and I could see a faint hint of light about to rise over the horizon, so I had some hot tea and cereal and began the walk toward the base of the famous ‘Andromeda Strain’. I carried skis with me to make the short glacier crossing somewhat safer, and as I reached the toe of the glacier it became light enough to see the route and I could see a safe path across the small glacier to the base of the route.

夜里我睡得并不好，起来了两到三次，反复地在东方的地平线上寻找着第一缕曙光的踪迹。第三次起来的时候，我隐约能在天边看见一丝微弱的光，我准备了点热茶和燕麦，然后开始徒步走向著名的“天外来菌”（Andromeda Strain）线路。我这次带着双板，这样可以更加安全地穿过冰川，当我达到冰川尽头时，能清晰地看见一条安全的小径穿过一些零散的冰川，直通到攀登线路的下方。

I reached the bergshrund and switched into crampons and clipped a few pitons, a set of wires, and two screws to my harness before climbing several hundred feet of easy snow ice and mixed to the base of the first mixed pitch; a short corner that looked to be good fun. The pitch was not steep and I soloed it with my pack on without difficulty; soon I was cleaning snow from the typical downsloping ledges that so often are characteristic of traverses on Rockies alpine routes. This traverse deposited me at the base of a steep chimney line choked with obnoxious snow mushrooms.

我在冰川的断层处换上了冰爪和安全带，扣上了一些岩钉和岩塞，在相对简单的冰雪及混合地形上上升了几百米后，我在混合地形攀登开始的第一段绳距处（一段很有意思的内角攀登）使用了两个冰锥，第一段的坡度不算太陡，所以我能轻易地背着包完成。很快，我便接近到一处需要横切才能通过的斜面平台（这样的路段在落基山脉攀登中很常见），我清理掉上面覆盖的雪，然后开始设法通过。这段横切路线的终点便是狭窄的烟囱线路开始的地方，向上望去，整段烟囱路线中布满了令人生厌的雪蘑菇。

At this point I traversed slightly off the easiest line to hang my backpack from a fifi hook on some fixed webbing where it would be well sheltered from the snow I would have to clean while climbing the chimney.

我将岩钩（菲菲钩）放置在固定的扁带上，然后挂上我的背包，略微改变了一下横切的路线，虽然这样提高了难度，但这样一来，我所处的地理位置刚好是基本没有落雪的地方，这也帮我省去了在攀登烟囱时要不停清扫身上积雪的麻烦。

As I soloed up the chimney I carefully trundled snow mushrooms between my legs, taking care to cut away the mushrooms in small pieces that would not knock me off or throw me out of balance. I reached a crux move where I had to spin around and face outwards while stemming to get secure enough feet to remove my lower tool and use it to tap my upper tool more securely into place before spinning back around and pulling into a crack on the chimney’s right hand wall. Above this the climbing was easier although still sustained and exposed and always interesting and fun. I stopped once to pull up my pack on the 5mm static cord I was trailing, then I hung it once again from a fixed piton in a sheltered nook before continuing to the end of the mixed difficulties, never having to rely on any aid (aside from drytooling) or use any kind of self belay.

在攀登烟囱路段的过程中，我需要小心地将位于我双腿中间的那些雪蘑菇逐步凿掉，如果用力太大或者一次凿掉太多的话，我很有可能就会失去平衡而冲坠。这一路段的难点是一处我必须转身使自己面朝外侧的地方，在做出这个动作的同时又必须确保双脚的脚点足够稳固，从而能让我松开低处的冰镐然后使用它去稳固处在高处的另一只镐，在手点足够稳固后，我必须发力再将身体转回来面朝烟囱内侧。除了这些外，其它的部分都还算简单，当然，这种简单依然伴随着强烈的暴露感，需要坚韧的意志力去完成。但这也很有趣，不是吗？我在中途停下来一次，用5mm的静力绳将自己的背包拉了上来，然后将它再一次挂到一根位于一处避风内角的固定岩钉上。完成这些后，我开始攀登此段混合地形中最后的难点。 在整个烟囱路段的攀登过程中，我没有使用任何其它的辅助攀登装备（除了干攀用的冰镐）或自我保护装备。

Upon arriving in the upper couloir it had begun to snow lightly and large amounts of spindrift were pouring down the route from above. The first wave of spindrift had me quite frightened and I braced myself waiting for the impact. To my surprise the snow was light and simply washed down over my gloves and ice tools and off to either side without threatening to knock me off, so I began to climb upwards through the river of powder enjoying the wild conditions.

在到达上方的雪沟时，开始下起了小雪，不过比这个更麻烦的是有大量的流雪不停地从线路上方冲下来。第一轮流雪冲击的时候，我的确很害怕，瞬间将头低下，在线路上抱紧自己等着它们向我袭来。但幸运的是，这股流雪的雪质很轻，在遇到我的身体以及岩壁上的冰镐后自然地分成两股落下了，并没有对我造成任何伤害。我开始在布满粉雪的雪沟中继续向上攀登，享受着这份与自然相处的宁静。

In the Upper Couloir, Andromeda Strain
攀登上方的雪沟，“天外来菌”线路（Andromeda Strain）

A cold north wind blew the powder back up the couloir creating an incredible story ambience while I climbed the old grey ice with joy. Soon I arrived at the famous exit pitch, and made my way easily up a loose ramp to gain the steeper ice bulge where the position become truly spectacular for the five final meters of ice before reaching the easy slopes above. I broke trail through poor quality snow and dug through a small cornice and found myself on the summit of Andromeda in near whiteout conditions. I was disappointed as I had been looking forward to the view from the summit, but nonetheless started picking my way down towards to the top of the Practice Gully.

线路的暴露感很强，寒冷强劲的北风夹杂着狂舞的粉雪拍打着我，有时身边几乎是白茫一片，看不见任何东西，只有耳边的风声、呼吸声以及冰镐敲击在岩壁上的反馈一直在告诉我自己的存在。很快我就到了最后一段绳距，这里有一段地形很松散也很暴露的斜坡，但难点并不在这里，而是随之而来的一个陡峭无比的冰包。这里离上方的缓坡有大概五米的垂直距离，但冰包所处的位置为翻越它造成了极大的障碍，而且需要相当夸张的动作才能完成。我只能告诉自己在这段令人生厌且雪质很差的路段继续突破前行，当我在挖穿一道雪檐后，我发现自己终于站在了Andromeda的顶峰，而这时的我已经是惨不忍睹，几近雪盲的状态。我一直期待站在顶峰上能看到的风景会壮丽无比，但事实却着实让我失望。我决定开始下撤，但这意味着我得首先设法让自己回到Practice Gully的上方。

Easy but exposed downclimbing around the huge cornice, followed by several rappels from V-Threads and two hundred more meters of downclimbing on snow brought me to the schrund where there was some conveniently exposed ice to rappel from for one last time. Soon I was skiing back down into the valley bottom, arriving at my tent at what I would guess to be around lunchtime.

这段路需要绕过一个巨大的雪檐，不算太难，但是暴露感却相当强，在几处连续下降的路段上需要设置冰洞保护，紧接着是长达两百多米的雪面下撤，直至到达一处很暴露的冰层断裂处，这里相对更容易设置保护站，完成最后一段下降。接下来回到山谷的路段可以很轻松地滑雪回去。当我回到帐篷的时候，刚好是午餐的时间，一切都按我的计划在顺利进行。

I marvelled at how well the climb had gone and at how calm and comfortable I had felt soloing the route; the past three weeks of high frequency alpine climbing with Luka had really made a huge effect on my familiarity with the style of mixed climbing in the Rockies and ‘The Andromeda Strain’ had been the perfect warm up solo. I was so content that I thought about just staying on the icefields for a couple more days and calling things good, but the allure of my next objective ‘Mt Robson’s Emperor Face’ was far too strong.  After some wandering about in the gravel flats, I packed up camp and stood on the side of the Highway with my thumb out until a friendly Jasper local picked me up and dropped me off a traveler’s hostel in town.

在内心里，我对完成这一次攀登的顺利和舒服程度，以及自己独自攀登时冷静处理困难的心态都感到非常惊讶；和Luka在过去三周中进行的高强度阿尔卑斯攀登的确为我熟悉落基山脉的混合路线打下了牢固的基础。而“天外来菌（The Andromeda Strain）”对我来说，绝对是一条最佳的热身单人线路。此刻在我的内心有一种无比的满足感，我想在冰原上多呆几天，享受这份内心的愉悦和宁静，但我知道，自己内心中对完成下一个目标：罗布森峰的Emperor face（王者之路）线路的信念也正在变得越来越强。

The next day I made arrangements for a bus to Mt Robson, and completely reorganized and packed my equipment. I planned for four days; one to approach, one to climb and descend, one to relax around Berg Lake and a final day to hike back to the Highway and hitch a ride back to Jasper.

第二天我便带上这次攀登所需的装备搭车去了罗布森峰。我总共计划了四天的时间；第一天到达山脚，第二天上升并下撤，第三天在Berg Lake（山湖）边休息，第四天徒步返回高速路搭车回到Jasper国家公园。

When the bus dropped me off on the side of the Highway I saw Mt Robson for the first time. The way it seemed to just tower above the road was like no other mountain I had ever seen; the summit felt incredible distant as if it were located on another planet entirely.  As I began to walk towards the trail head I reminded myself that you only ever get to visit a place for the first time once in your life; I began to immerse myself into the environment taking in all the sounds, the smells and the colours that gave the forest its atmosphere. As I walked up towards Kinney Lake I frequently peered upwards to the summit ridge, looking for clues on how I may descent if I did indeed make it that far. I was in awe.

当车到达高速路边离徒步线路起点不远的地方时，我从车上下来，抬头仰望着耸立在眼前的罗布森峰，这是我与她的第一次相遇。巨大的山体矗立在离我不远的前方，她看起来与我见过的其它山峰没有丝毫相似之处；顶峰看起来永远无法到达，仿佛位于另外一颗星球。当我开始走向徒步的起点处时，我对自己说：“你永远只有一次机会去拥抱一个新的地方，正如我们永远无法第二次踏入同一条河流一样。”我开始让自己完全沉浸到周围的环境中，聆听所有的声音，享受所有的色彩，呼吸森林里每一处的芬芳。在去往Kinney湖的路上，我不时抬头在林间寻找罗布森顶峰山脊的身影，同时思考如何在登顶那看似远在异星的顶峰后下撤的问题。此刻我的内心充满了敬畏。

I took a short break on the shores of Kinney Lake, hoping to take in and appreciate the scenery and to not push myself too hard on the approach, saving energy for the huge climb ahead. As I hiked deeper into the Valleys the scenery slowly changed and I passed through gravel flats, and up beyond the Valley of a Thousand Falls to the snow line where I put on my skis and began skinning. As I rounded the corner above Emperor Falls I began to see the Emperor Face for the first time. I continued through the flats and up to the edge of the small lake at the toe of the Mist Glacier where I planned to spend my first night, and I began to cook some food and observe the route above quietly.
我在Kinney湖边短暂休息了一下，让自己完全融入到周边的自然环境中，欣赏并享受这里无与伦比的风景。我不想让自己只是赶着去完成这次攀登，为接下来的攀登保留体力才是眼下最重要的事情。随着我继续向山谷里深入，眼前的景色也在跟着慢慢发生变化，我途径了一些碎石滩，在翻越千瀑峡谷后到达了雪线，终于可以在这里换上雪板开始滑雪前行了。在绕过Emperor Fall（王者瀑布）后，我终于第一次亲眼看到了Emperor face（王者之路）线路，我继续前行到一处小湖边，这里也是Mist冰川开始的地方。我决定在这里扎营，度过第一个夜晚。吃过晚餐后，我开始仔细地研究眼前的这条线路，四周是那般只有在自然中才能体会到的宁静。

The face was partially obscured in cloud and a huge lenticular cloud extended to the north off of the summit ridge. From the moraine far below I could hear the wind raging violently over the summit ridge more than 2000 meters above and for the first time in a long time I felt deeply intimidated by the aura of the mountain.  Was I ready for such an undertaking? Did I have the mental and physical stamina to commit to such a large and daunting face with such minimal equipment?

线路的一些部分被云层遮挡了，一朵巨大的透镜云漂浮在山脊的北侧。我能很清晰地听到并感觉到狂风从布满冰碛的山谷中肆虐地吹向上方两千多米的顶峰山脊的声音，我不得不承认，在很长一段时间后，我再一次感受到了那种在山里让人恐惧的感觉。我真的为这次攀登做好准备了吗？我的意志和身体都已经强大到可以迎接眼前这面令人畏惧的巨大岩壁所发出的挑战了吗？我真的只需要眼下的这些简单的装备就能独自完成这次攀登吗？

I lay on my sleeping pad with these thoughts running through my mind, feeling very small and very alone, until as evening approached certain calmness overtook me. I realized that I was approaching the route with a healthy amount of respect, and that the King also respected me and my ambitions in return. I was being drawn toward the mountain in a search for adventure, by a desire to explore my own limitations and to also be immersed in a world so deeply beautiful that it would forever etch itself into my memory.

我躺在地垫上，这些想法肆意地在我的脑海中到处乱窜，我感到自己的渺小和无助，只到夜色完全降临，我在内心里才似乎找到了一丝安宁使自己平静下来。我意识到自己是带着绝对的虔诚和尊敬来到这条线路的，所以我坚信王者（这里指线路）也会为此让我得到应有的回报。山峰对我的强烈吸引开始让我决定深入其中，探索未知；在这里我能找到自己能力的极限并同时沉浸在大自然的宁静中，拥抱她的温柔和壮丽，让自己与她成为一体。

Below the Emperor Face
到达Emperor Face（王者之路）线路下方

Despite a strong south wind I fell into a long sleep, and by the time I awoke it was calm and clear. There was still a hint of light in the sky and I could not tell if I had slept for five minutes or if it was nearly sunrise. I detected that the light was coming from the east so I made breakfast and coffee and shouldered my pack to start my journey up the Emperor Face.

伴随着强劲的南风，我沉沉地睡了很久。当我起来的时候，四周寂静无声，此刻，只有我独自一人存在于这片棱角分明的山野中。远方的天空中挂着一抹淡淡的光，我无法知道自己到底是只睡了五分钟或已近日出。但那抹微光的方向分明是在告诉我温暖的阳光不久即将普照大地。我准备了早餐和咖啡，随后便打包上路，继续走向王者之路（Emperor Face）

By the time I reached the snowy moraine it was light enough to see without a light, and the snow was of the perfect consistency and angle that I could skin directly up it without sliding backwards. As the angle steepened I began switch-backing my way upwards until it was no longer sensible to continue using skis. Here I put on my harness, took out my ice tools and put on my crampons.

当我到达冰碛层的时候，天已经很亮了，我关掉头灯继续前行，这里的雪况很好也并不滑，并且坡度刚好，能让我很轻松地上去。随着坡度越来越陡，我开始利用之字路线帮助自己，直到感觉无法再使用双板继续前行。我穿上安全带和冰爪，拿出技术镐，一切都已就绪。

A few minutes later I was at the initial ice pillar of ‘Infinite Patience’. The pillar was in thin conditions, and I decided that I would tag up my back pack to make the vertical climbing easier. The steepness took me by surprise and I had to stop to shake out several times through the crux section before the angle slowly eased off. I pulled up my bag and continued up easier, but still not trivial terrain and gained the easy angled slopes leading up towards ‘Bubba’s Couloir’. There was quite a lot of snow on the face and the trail-breaking was somewhat arduous as I made my way to the couloirs entrance. Even in the couloir the snow as at times frustrating, but eventually became firmer and almost neve like as I reached the start of the traverse left into the upper couloir.

很快我就到达了起步点的冰柱：Infinite Patience（永恒的耐心），冰质的状况不太理想，很薄，为了能在可能不太稳定的冰面上更安全迅速地攀登，我决定先将背包固定好，然后轻身上阵。线路的陡峭程度超出了我的预期，在几个难点处，我不得不停下来，重新调整自己的状态，然后再全力以赴突破至上方较平缓的地方。我在缓坡处将背包拉了上来，可通往上方Bubba雪沟的路况依然不乐观，冰面相当光滑，而且坡度几近垂直，除此之外，线路上的积雪非常多，在消耗大量的体力开路后，我到达了雪沟的起点处，这里的冰况在起步路段依然很糟糕，但幸运的是，随着高度的上升，冰况也越来越稳定。当我到达雪沟上方左侧的横切点的时候，冰况几乎已经达到了永冻冰层的状态。

The initial ice pitch on Infinite Patience
第一段攀冰绳距- Infinite Patience（永恒的耐心）线路

Here, the rock was covered with about two feet of powder snow obscuring everything, but as I dug through and uncovered the rock beneath multitudes of thin cracks presented themselves making for good and securing climbing. I would brush away large amounts of snow until finding an ideal thin crack, then I would use my other tool to gently tap the pick into place creating a sort of self belay to hold onto while I continued to clear more snow away, slowly making my way sideways across the wall.

第一段绳距的雪相当厚，所有的岩石都被近两英尺的粉雪覆盖在下面，完全无法辨别可以使用的力点。我只能不停地用镐向下挖，直到在被覆盖住的岩石上找到稳定的，可以适合作为发力点而入镐的裂缝。为此我不得不消耗大量体力，清除大面积的积雪，再将另一支镐的镐尖吃进稳定的裂缝，为自己设立一个所谓的临时保护点，然后握住这个保护点，继续交替手清扫接下来的积雪。就这样，我一点一点地在混合地形的岩壁上慢慢的横移着。

Berg Lake from 2/3 height on the face.
在线路三分之二的地方看向Berg Lake（山湖）

I reached an exposed prow heavily covered in snow where I had to dig an exposed trench further left before making my way onto the crest where I carefully maneuvered around cornices and snow mushrooms. This brought me to the upper snowlopes where I found better conditions and less tiresome trail breaking and could make my way relatively quickly towards the upper mixed runnels that ‘Infinite Patience’ is famous for. As I neared the runnels I could see two possible options, and both were blocked by large snow mushrooms making it impossible to see if there was any ice beneath or which would be the best route. The right hand option did look to be less vertical I so decided to explore it first. I soon found myself scraping up a sketchy groove while digging a tunnel though the snow mushroom; taking care not to dislodge the entire thing on top of myself. I could not help but dislodge snow into my jacket and was soon soaked all the way down to my base layer. I became concerned that if I topped out the face soaking wet and into the wind that I would become hypothermic.  I forced my tunnel through the mushroom slowly, grovelling upwards through this unexpected crux, and soon I exited the groove into easier angled climbing above. Here I found better neve and exceptionally fun mixed climbing in grooves high on the face in a fantastic position.

线路其中的一个难点之一是一处被大量积雪覆盖的尖顶岩石，我在这里不得不奋力在偏离线路的左侧用冰镐挖出一条暴露感极强的雪沟，然后小心翼翼的将自己挪到岩石的顶部，在到达顶部后，我又必须非常小心地绕过这里巨大的雪檐和雪蘑菇，但令人欣慰的是，在完成这节令人讨厌的路段后，我发现上方的雪坡非常缓，路况很好，而且不需要再那么费力的开路，这样我就能相对轻松地接近那段最著名的混合地形的烟囱线路了。在我接近烟囱路线的时侯，发现摆在我面前的有两个选择，并且不管选择哪条路，都必须面对一个有着厚厚积雪的巨大雪蘑菇，而它的存在让我无法判断下面是否有冰或者哪条线路才是最佳的选择。右手边的线路看起来没的确那么陡，所以我决定首先从右侧开始。很快，我便开始在一段很粗糙的流雪槽中，几乎是用蠕动的方式向上攀登，并且同时又要用冰镐在雪蘑菇上凿出一个能足够让我通过的通道。我必须保证不去损坏整个雪蘑菇的结构，因为这东西一旦塌到我身上来，后果可想而知。但在整个通过的过程中，大量的雪还是依然无法避免地落到我身上，并且有些直接掉入到我的衣服内，融化的雪水迅速将所有内层的衣服全部打湿，直至打底的保暖层。我开始担心如果这样下去，等我登顶线路的时候，潮湿的衣服加上顶峰强劲的风会使我迅速失温。我缓慢地将身体从雪蘑菇上凿开的通道中挪出，小心翼翼地趴着通过这个意料之外的难点。接下来的烟囱路段相对简单且坡度较缓，这里的永冻冰的状态更好，在到达下一个难点前，我终于可以开始享受混合地形攀登的乐趣了。


Upper ice runnel on Infinite Patience
冰槽上方- Infinite Patience （永恒的耐心）线路

Shortly before reaching the Emperor Ridge I traversed left onto a ledge in the sun where I allowed my clothes to dry and also brewed up four litres of water, afraid that once I reached the Emperor Ridge that the wind would make it impossible for me to use my stove. Once I was sufficiently dry and had plenty of water, I drank half and saved the other two litres for the remainder of the climb. After traversing back onto the route more easy ice and two excellent mixed chimney pitches brought me to the Emperor Ridge.  

在达到Emperor Ridge（王者山脊）前，我向路线左侧横移了一节，这里有一个平台可以让我将浸湿的衣服在太阳下晒干，我在这里煮了四升多的水，因为我担心在抵达Emperor Ridge（王者山脊）后，上面的山风会让我无法再使用炉子。我在这里晒干了所有打湿的衣服，饮用了足够的水，将余下的两升打包好，留在接下来的路段上用。在横移回主线路后，通往山脊只剩下两段绳距，完成这段混合地形的攀登后，就可以达到山脊了！

The last pitch before the Emperor Ridge
到达Emperor Ridge（王者山脊）前的最后一段绳距

The views were phenomenal as I scrambled upwards to eventually reach the long traverse across the west face that is used to avoid the Gargoyles of the upper Emperor Ridge. This 800 meter traverse can be the physical and mental crux of the route, and although it is not technical, traversing steep and exposed snow for such a distance is a tedious affair.

随着海拔越来越高，四周的风景也开始变得如史诗一般。为了避开Emperor Ridge（王者山脊）上方的Gargoyles（魔鬼冰崖），我必须前往西侧一段漫长的横切线路。这段长达八百米的横切线路不论是在体能还是意志上都足以成为整条线路上最大的挑战，虽然从技术上讲没有那么困难，但在陡峭和暴露的雪面上横切如此长的距离也绝非易事。

I kicked steps and planted my tools for what felt like an eternity, my gloves becoming wet and freezing solid in the cold wind. I watched the sun slowly making its way towards the horizon while traversing towards the Wishbone Arete which never appeared to get any closer.

我开始在这段“无尽”的横切线路上一步一镐的移动，落在手套上的冰雪慢慢将其全部浸湿，伴随着如此高度上凛冽的风，我的手几乎是麻木的状态。太阳此刻也开始回到地平线下，我望着冰壁另一端标志着横切结束的Y型刃脊，感觉仿佛这是世界上最远，最无法抵达的目的地。

Traversing toward the summit.
通向顶峰的横切路段

Eventually I broke upwards through moderate mixed terrain, now having to stop quite often to catch my breath and shake out my feet which were starting to become incredible sore from the hours of front pointing. I entered a blue ice groove in between the spectacular and enormous upper Gargoyles which were very reminiscent of the famous rime mushrooms of The Torres. I tried to remind myself to enjoy the spectacular climbing, but at this point my feet were in agony and I was beginning to suffer my way upwards towards the summit, now mere meters away.

在经过无比漫长的机械性横切后，我总算到达了坡度比较平缓的混合地形路段。终于可以在这里重新调整呼吸并让一直在冰面处于前踢状态，酸痛到不行的双脚得到休息。现在摆在我眼前的是一条美丽的难以想象的蓝冰槽，它的位置刚好处在巨大壮观的Gargoyles（魔鬼冰崖）的上方中间，眼前这片巨大的冰崖不禁让我想到Torres峰顶那个巨大的雪蘑菇。我尽量试着让自己去欣赏这般童话般的景色，去享受这种独自攀登的宁静，但是双脚的疼痛却从此刻开始，不断地让我分心，登顶近在咫尺的顶峰开始变成了一种折磨。

I stumbled onto the summit of Robson at sunset and was rewarded to a breathtaking view of the Rocky Mountains. Snow and ice extended as far as the eye could see in all directions. Robson seemed to be so much taller than any of the surrounding peaks, like a platform in the sky looking down on the rest of the world. I was elated to have made it to the summit, but my feet were in such pain that I knew I couldn’t begin down-climbing the west bowl immediately. I peered over the edge of the south face, but I did not want to take any chances walking alone on the glacier or traversing the infamous ledges beneath the south glacier seracs.

最终，我几乎是在跛着的状态中到达了顶峰，这里的景色美的让人难以置信，身处在这样的海拔高度，可以将落基山脉的群峰尽收眼底。冰雪的世界从四周蔓延至无尽的远方。罗布森峰似乎看起来比周边任何一座山峰都要高，仿佛就像一座天空之城，悬停在飘渺的空中，俯瞰下界所有的生灵。我在内心为自己的登顶感到无比的高兴，但伴随着喜悦的同时是双脚难以忍受的疼痛，我知道自己无法在这样的状态下立即动身从西侧的山坳下撤。我看了一眼南侧的山脊，如果从这里下撤，会难以避免地将自己置于从南侧悬冰塔下那段平台上横切的巨大风险中，而且眼下双脚的状态也无法再支撑我独自在冰川上行走。

On the summit at sunset
顶峰的日落

I decided that my best option was to dig a trench in the rime of the summit plateau and open bivouac until I felt rested enough to begin the descent. This would also allow the snow of the west bowl to freeze making for safer conditions the following morning. I had a light emergency bivy sack, essentially a garbage bag with a reflective liner, and I used my light cord and backpack as insulation to lay down on. I took off my outer boots to give my feet a break and I began snacking on my remaining food hoping that the calories would help me stay warmer through the cold windy night. I shivered inside my flimsy bivy sack and pondered my position, alone in an ice coffin on the summit of the Rockies highest peak at night. Despite the discomfort it was undeniable that the situation was quite stupendous.

此刻对于我来说最好的方案就是在顶峰的雪原上挖一道能够让我扎营的雪沟，我需要让自己的身体在开始下撤前得到充分的休息。这样经过一夜的时间，也能让西侧山坳的雪再冻得更加结实一些，因为越稳定的雪况对于我来说就是越安全的下撤。我随身带了一顶很轻的单人帐，简单的可以说只是在一个很大的垃圾袋中套了一层热反射膜。我躺在由攀冰用的绳子和背包制成的隔热垫上休息，脱下靴子让双脚也得到释放，然后在剩下的食物中，找了一些能够让自己获得更多热量的吃下，希望这些热量能帮助我在顶峰凛冽的寒风中度过一夜。我一边在那层反射膜帐篷中冻得瑟瑟发抖，一边在脑海中描绘着自己眼下的境地:独自一人套着隔热膜，在夜里睡在落基山脉最高顶峰上的冰棺材里。先抛开舒适性不说，自己眼下这样的境地无论说给地球上任何一个人听，都会让对方目瞪口呆。

At one point the wind died down slightly and I used to stove to make a hot water bottle that I placed under my hip, where I was losing most of my heat to the cold ground below. This allowed me some comfort for a short time but soon I began to shiver uncontrollably again. The wind was too strong to light my stove, so I attempted to use the stove inside of the small bivy sack. I managed to get the stove lit and was re-heating the water when in the darkness the water over-boiled and filled my bivy with water and drenched my clothes.

刺骨的寒风几乎狂吹了一夜，但也在中间有那么几次短暂弱下来的时候，我抓住这样难得的机会打开炉头烧了点热水，然后放在屁股下面取暖，因为这里的冰化的最多，也是我全身失温最快的地方。然后，这样的方法只能为我提供瞬间的温暖，紧接下来的依然是自身无法控制的颤抖。呼啸的高山风一直肆虐，我完全无法再点燃炉头，于是索性将炉头拿进“帐篷”希望试着能在里面点着。我艰难地在狭小有限的空间里将炉头点燃，但不幸的是，却将水烧过了头，而且更糟的是，我打翻了所有的水，浸湿的“帐篷”和衣服对于此刻的我来说，无疑是雪上加霜。

I yelled an obscenity and realized that my situation was becoming too desperate now to stay on the summit any longer, so I climbed out of the bivy sack and began to organize my equipment for the descent. My headlamp batteries were dead, and it took my several minutes with frozen fingers to replace the batteries with fresh ones. Rime was growing all over my gear, my outer boots and my bivy sack. I forced my frozen outer boots back on, and with numb hands and feet I climbed back over the edge of the summit plateau and into the upper west face.

我恼怒地咒骂着这该死的境遇，同时在我脑子里闪现的是近乎绝望的画面，天气已经恶劣到不能再这么继续留在顶峰了。我钻出“帐篷”，开始收拾装备，为下撤做好准备。头灯里装的电池已经无法再使用了，我花了比平时多出好几倍的时间，颤抖着用冻僵的手指换上了新的电池。暴虐的寒风在我耳边呼啸，吹起的雪白色冰晶覆盖了我所有的装备，靴子和帐篷。我将双脚强行地塞进冻得坚硬如冰的靴子里，疼痛的压迫感和刺骨的感觉瞬间袭来；所有的手指此刻依然没有任何知觉，但我知道，我必须立刻动起来，不然只有死路一条。我步履蹒跚着攀回到顶峰雪原山脊的后方，这里是从西侧山坳下降的起点。

Once I reached ice I became pleasantly distracted in the familiar rhythm of drilling v-threads and making my 25 meter rappels. I sometimes had to down-climb moderate mixed ground and neve to find suitable anchors and I left two nuts and piton in place to rappel short rock bands. I reached the long traverse ledge exactly as morning began to dawn. I was now slightly out of the worst of the wind and I dug a ledge into a sheltered zone between two sharp rock pinnacles to try to brew more water. Sitting on my ledge spindrift poured down just to my left and also to my right as I filled the Jetboil with snow and re-lit the stove each time the wind blew it out.

当我开始准备从冰面下降时，曾经熟悉得几乎在瞬间就能完成的冰洞保护操作和节奏在此刻已荡然无存，极度严寒的黑夜犹如无情的恶魔，不会给我任何喘息和商量的余地，一段在平时很轻松的二十五米左右的下降却需要在此刻花上成倍的时间和体力才能完成。我不得不在有些混合地形和永冻冰面上采取倒攀的形式下撤，然后找到合适的点设置保护，在通过一段很短的岩石带时，我尽然使用了两个岩塞和一个岩钉。当天际线开始微微泛白时，我到达了漫长的横切平台，幸运的是，天气在此刻总算开始变得温柔起来，我在处于两个尖顶石峰之间的地方凿出了一个小平台，为自己设立了一个临时“休息区”。炉头刚好可以放在这里，我一边坐在平台上烧水，一边感受着雪瀑不时从我身旁两侧冲下的感觉。和夜里的情况一样，我必须不停地重复点燃随身携带的Jetboil才能保证自己有口热水喝。我就这么机械性地在一幅无奈的画面中重复着同一个动作。

I was putting my lighter back in my pocket and removing it to light the stove so often that I kept the pocket unzipped for quick access. As I sat melting snow I noticed a small pebble tumbling down the face and over the edge of the cliff bands below. Suddenly, with a heart sinking feeling, I realized that the falling pebble was not a pebble at all, but in fact my lighter. Just then the stove blew out again.

为了便于能够迅速点燃炉头，我一直将外套口袋的拉链开着，这样就能方便我反复拿出打火机再放回去。我坐在平台上无奈地烧着水，突然，我看到一块石头从我脚下的悬崖上蹦跳着跌落了下去，然后消失于无尽的虚空中。我先愣了一下，然后一道闪电划过我的脑子，那块石头的外观怎么和我的打火机那么像？我摸了摸拉链开着的口袋，脑子里的闪电瞬间击向了心脏，彻底完了，打火机没了！而几乎是在同时，炉头的火也被风吹灭了。

I opened the lid and saw 500ml of water inside, so I added all of my remaining electrolyte tablets and accepted that this was to be my last water for a while. The main problem was that all of my food at the base of the route needed to be cooked in the stove and I was now worried that I would be unable to refuel after the climb.

我打开锅盖，伤心地呆望着里面近五百毫升的水，索性将随身所有余下的电解质水溶片全加了进去，并且一再让自己接受这就是在得到补给前最后的水了。但更大的问题还不在于此，而是我所有其它的食物都在山下的营地里，如果没有火机，炉头也根本无法发挥任何作用，我也无法在顺利下山后得到能量补给。

I continued down-climbing steep frozen snow for several thousand vertical feet as chips of falling ice fell on and around me, released from above by the morning sun. I looked over my shoulder and could suddenly see the shadow of the mountain extending forever into the horizon against a red sky. I tried to take a photo by my camera battery had died from the cold and I was well beyond being motivated to replace it with a new one. I accepted that this moment I would have to be just my own for the rest of my life; it was powerful.

我开始继续在冰壁上下撤，随着太阳的升起，温度也越来越高，这使得在近几千英尺距离的下降中，不断有从上方脱落的碎冰在我身边划过。我转身往外望去，此刻能看见巨大的山影在红色天空的映衬下伸向无尽的远方。我试着拿出相机想留下这一幕，但可惜的是，低温使电池已无法再提供哪怕是一丝的电力了。而此刻的我也无法再提供哪怕一丝的动力去更换新的电池了。我停在这幅充满力量又宁静优美的画面里；在这一刻里，所有自然元素构成的美已注入我的生命，让我再次充满力量。

As I lost elevation I began traversing to the west, eventually rounding the mountain and making my way down moderate terrain near the edge of the Emperor Ridge.  As the angle decreased I realized that I was home free and that there was little chance of having an accident or mishap now. I had made it!

随着海拔的降低，我开始向西侧横切，并最终绕回到Emperor Ridge（王者山脊）一侧较缓的混合地形上。坡度从这里开始已没有那么陡，这也就意味着人为犯错的风险和自然地形的风险都不再那么高，我也开始逐渐意识到离最终的胜利不远了。是的，我的确做到了！

I stumbled along the shale bands and across snow ledges, making a couple more rappels over rock steps before eventually reaching my skis mid morning. With tired legs I skied back down the moraines and picked up the food and equipment I had left at my first bivi site. I skied to the edge of the Robson River where I lay in the sun drinking water and eating the food that did not need to be cooked.

在最后的一段下降中，我跌跌撞撞地穿过了结构松散的页岩带和几处积满雪的平台，在确保完成最后的几段岩降后，我最终在上午和煦的阳光里抵达了起初脱下雪板的地方。我拖着肿痛到不行的双脚，踩着雪板滑出了冰碛区，在第一个营地处，拿上了所有放在这里的食物和装备，然后向罗布森湖的岸边滑去，在到达岸边后，我几乎是摊在阳光下，补充了一些水以及不需要加热的食物。

Pondering my options, I decided to ski to the Hargreaves shelter at Berg Lake to see if there was a lighter inside. Two long kilometres later I found the shelter, and much to my relief a lighter inside! I spent a long while rehydrating meals and eating my fill before eventually falling asleep on the floor of the shelter peacefully. When I awoke, I found in my pocket, much to my dismay a backup lighter that had been there the whole time! The stress has been all for nothing.

我躺着考虑了一下自己目前的状况，决定滑雪前往位于Berg Lake（山湖）边的Hargreaves木屋，希望能在那里找到一个打火机。在经过长达两公里的滑行后，我终于幸运的在木屋里找到了期望中的火种！在水足饭饱之后，我沉沉地在木屋中的地板上睡着了。当我醒来的时候，我摸了摸口袋，恍惚中感觉到了一个硬物，我拿出来一看，没错，是我的备用打火机，它一直就在那里！我目瞪口呆地看着它，四周鸦雀无声。先前所有的担心在此刻看来都是白费。

At the shelter , Berg Lake
Berg Lake（山湖）边的庇护所

Regardless of the lighter situation I was deeply happy and in an incredible state of mind. It was now my fourth day alone in the mountains and my thoughts had reached a depth and clarity that I had never before experienced. The magic was real.
打火机的故事已然不能掩盖住我内心此刻难以言喻的喜悦！现在是我独自在山里攀登的第四天，我知道自己在能力上，获得了比以前任何一次都珍贵的攀登经验；而在心理上，这座山峰也赐予了我无比坚定及静默的力量。

I thought to myself that the essence of alpinism lies in true adventure. I was deeply content that I had not carried a watch with me to keep time, as the obsession with time and speed is in fact one of the greatest detractors from the alpine experience. I was happy that my entire experience had been onsight, on my first visit to the mountain, and that the route had been in completely virgin condition. One of the greatest challenges of mountaineering is in dealing with the natural obstacles the mountain provides. So often in modern alpinism, routes will be fearsomely difficult for the first party of the season, and then once the obstacles have been cleared, a track established or the ‘tunnels’ dug it becomes easy for those who follow.

我一直认为对于阿尔卑斯攀登来说，最重要的精髓是在于探险本身。我很高兴自己在这一次的攀登中，没有使用任何形式的计时装备，因为计时与速度在我看来是阿尔卑斯运动中最容易让我们从纯粹攀登中分心的两个因素。我很开心在自己的整个登山过程中，在每一次去到一座新的山峰时，或当每一次与一条全新的线路相遇时，从一开始就锻炼自己onsight的能力，这样的坚持到如今的确给了我无价的回报。攀登中最大的挑战之一是在于如何面对并处理大自然在途中给我们设下的障碍。但是在现代阿尔卑斯运动中，在很多情况下，攀登季中的很多线路在天然地形上具有相当的难度，而一旦当线路中障碍发生变化或被清除后，一条清晰的线路或“冰洞”即会摆在后来者面前，这样的确降低了线路的难度，但是同时也简单了我们的思考，降低了自己本可以更好提升的能力。

Climbing routes that have been cleared, with an established track, simply in order to attain the summit, or keeping time in order to set records is in fact reducing the adventure of alpinism more to that of a sport climb, and strips the route of its full challenge making it more of a ‘playing field’ of a team sports athlete or like a barbell at an indoor gym where a jock tries to lift his personal best.

若只是为了登顶或者用更快的时间去完成登顶从而刷新纪录而去选择攀登完全不存在任何思考和挑战的线路，这样的做法无疑是将阿尔卑斯探险的本质简单地降低成了运动攀登，这样的攀登在更多意义上只是个人或团队的“玩乐”而已，因为线路本身根本不存在任何挑战可言。这就如同一个运动员在设施齐备的健身房里拿着杠铃，然后试着不断刷新自己的成绩一样。

As a young climber it is undeniable that I have been manipulated by the media and popular culture and that some of my own climbs have been subconsciously shaped through what the world perceives to be important in terms of sport. Through time spent in the mountains, away from the crowds, away from the stopwatch and the grades and all the lists of records I’ve been slowly able to pick apart what is important to me and discard things that are not.

作为一个年轻的攀登者，我的确不能否认自己也会受到媒体及主流文化和价值观的影响，并且我过去的一些独立攀登也会被大众在潜意识中按照世人所能接受的重要运动而被定义。在山里度过的那些远离人群，远离计时器，远离难度等级以及攀登纪录的时光让我逐渐学会了如何分清哪些事情在生命里对我的确重要，而哪些事情可以完全任其随风而去。

Of course the journey of learning never ends but I’ve come to believe that the natural world is the greatest teacher of all, and that listening in silence to the universe around you is perhaps the most productive ways of learning. Perhaps it is not much of a surprise, but so often people are afraid of their own thoughts, resorting to drowning them out with constant noise and distraction. Is it a fear of leaning who we actually are that causes this? Perhaps so many of us are afraid to confront our own personalities that we go on living in a world of falseness, filling the void of true contentment by being actors striving to be perceived by the world around us as something that we ‘supposed to be’ rather than living as who we are.

我们此生的学习永无止境，于我而言，大自然母亲是我们最伟大的老师，静默地聆听并感受近在身边咫尺的宇宙所传递给我们的信息可能是最好，也是最有效的学习方式。我们在生活中不难见到，很多人在知道自己内心深处最真实的想法时，其实是很害怕的，我们更宁愿选择去用杂音和琐事让自己从中脱离出来，从而逃避面对真实自己时的压力。我们为什么会如此？是否是在看清或面对真实的自己时而感到恐惧？我们当中的绝大多数人可能都有面对自己真实性格时的恐惧感，而选择用虚假的积极和事情去掩盖；像演员一般用所谓的满足感去迎合和取得周围世界价值观的认可并认为这样的行为是我们“本应该”做的，但是，放弃或囚禁我们内心深处那个最真实的自己会如何？我们最终还能是我们自己吗？

Already I have been asked how fast I was, but I honestly cannot tell you how many hours the Emperor Face took me to climb. I began when I felt ready and I reached the top at sundown. I also don’t know how long the hike back to the road took me as well, but I do know that descending through the changing ecosystems back into the world of green lushness and deep blue lakes I felt more peace than I would have had I been counting my rate of kilometers per hour.

很多人问我这次Emperor Face（王者之路）的攀登有多快，用了多久时间。但坦诚地说，我实在无法给出一个数字化的答案。我只能说，我在感觉自己已经准备好的时候出发，在太阳落下地平线时到达顶峰。我也不知道下撤徒步回到公路用了多久时间，但我知道，在不停变化的自然生态中运动；穿过绿荫繁茂的森林；享受深蓝色湖泊的景色等这些的确让我感受到那份最平静且真实的愉悦，而这样的感受在我看来，要比速度、时间、纪录等重要得太多太多。

I’m happy to say that my visit with the Emperor was a truly special experience. At first I was intimidated by his strong aura but in the end we became friends and the King generously shared his wealth leaving me a much richer person indeed. Thank you.

眼下的我能很欣慰地说，这次Emperor Face（王者之路）的攀登对我来说是一次非常特殊的经历。从最初的不详预感到最终成为朋友，这为矗立于天际的王者无私地赠予了我最无价的回报。感恩与这份回报，我能更好地做我自己，丰富这最珍贵的生命。

谢谢你！


撰文/Marc-Andre Leclerc
翻译/Enzo
文章来自Marc-Andre Leclerc的blog

声明：本文仅为本群交流，商业用途请联系作者！

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关于Marc-Andre Leclerc：23岁，始祖鸟运动员。
曾在一天之内连续solo了加拿大斯阔米什Chief塔峰三条大岩壁路线，
2015年，在一天之内完成了巴塔哥尼亚Cerro Torre峰的Corkscrew线路的独攀。

树叉儿

文章有些长，能看完的，都是真爱！
其实，下撤那部分还挺有戏剧感的。
翻译不准之处，欢迎评论里指出。

这个小伙儿，虽然是个90后，
但我觉得挺成熟的，而且有自己的想法。