纪念 Dean Potter 1972—2015，Alex Honnold

bince

这是 Alex Honnold 发表在 The American Alpine Club 网站上的关于纪念 Dean Potter 遇难一周年的文章。
翻译了一下，必有纰漏，欢迎指出。

Dean Potter is one of the few people in sports history to have pushed the limits in multiple, widely disparate disciplines. Yet he saw his pursuits as arts and not as sport—himself as an artist not an athlete. He was a climber before the gym era, drawn to climbing by a love of the outdoors and a pursuit of adventure. It wasn’t about the physical act, and certainly not about the ratings or any other metrics applied to climbing. It seemed to be an inward journey or, as he often described it, a journey toward his fears.

Dean Potter 是运动史上那种罕见的，在不同领域都能多次突破极限的人之一。他认为他的追求是一种艺术而不是体育，而他自己则是一名艺术家而不是运动员。早在室内岩场普遍出现之前，他就作为一名攀岩者，出于对自然界的热爱和对冒险的追求开始进行攀登。这种行为无关乎强身健体，更不是为了某种难度级别或是其他什么攀岩的等级指标。这似乎更像是一种心灵的探索过程，或者，用他经常的描述：这是通往自身恐惧的一次探索。

We shared many of the same experiences, but they seemed to originate from wildly different motivations. When Dean soloed he was right on the edge and seemed to thrive there. A video of Dean free soloing Heaven (5.12d in Yosemite Valley) strikingly reveals that raw emotion: barely contained fear, or maybe just intense focus, or who knows what, really, as he sits at the base preparing. And then uncontainable joy when he tops out. Only he knows what he experienced for the 16 or so moves he made up that wildly overhanging crack.

我们分享过许多相似的经历，但动机似乎有相当大的差别。每当 Dean 在极限的边缘独自攀登的时候，他似乎得到了旺盛的活力。一个记录了 Dean 徒手攀登 “天堂”（5.12d 优胜美地）的视频惊人地揭示了那种原始的情感︰也许他勉强压抑着恐惧，或只是极度的专注，谁知道呢，真的，从开始在地面的冥想，直到狂喜的成功登顶，只有他自己知道，那在极度仰角的的裂缝中完成的16个左右的动作意味着什么。

And that’s probably the essence of Dean: doing things that no one else considered possible, experiencing things that no one had before and may never again. Dean authored extremely difficult crack climbs across the Utah desert and highball boulder problems in the Valley like the Wizard, an insane-looking jump start that never really gets attempted because it’s just too daunting. At the same time he was doing some of the longest wing-suit flights in the world and walking outrageous highlines, sometimes free solo, sometimes with a BASE rig, but always in the most beautiful places.

这大概就是 Dean 的精髓︰做那些没有人认为可能的事情，体验那些空前甚至绝后的经历。Dean 在犹他州荒漠创造了许多极端难度的裂缝攀登，以及峡谷中那些类似 “巫师” 这类高抱石路线，几乎没有人再次尝试过 “巫师” 疯狂的跳跃起步，只是因为它太令人生畏了。同时他还进行了一些世界最长距离翼装飞行和惊人的高空扁带行走，有时徒手攀登，有时会低空跳伞，但总是在那些最美好的地方。

This speaks toward his motivations: Dean was willing to take risks and pursue seemingly crazy goals because they were beautiful. He was the one who thought up the Moonwalk, an incredible short film by Reel Water Productions and Mikey Schaefer of Dean free soloing a highline on the summit of Cathedral Peak with an enormous full moon as his backdrop. The physical beauty of the places he performed inspired him to push further.

说到他的动机：Dean 愿意承担风险去追求看似疯狂的目标，是因为这一切很美好。他是那个想要在月球上漫步的人，一个由 Mikey Schaefer 和 Reel Water 出品的不可思议的短片中，当 Dean 在大教堂峰的顶端进行无保护高空扁带行走时，一轮巨大的满月是他的舞台。正是他展现的这种自然之美激发他不断地前行。

And yet he was also spurred by competition or a desire to be first—the same mundane things that motivate most people. He spoke often of trying to overcome his ego, yet it clearly was at play as he tried to break speed records or do first ascents. That competitive side seemed to come out a lot around Hans Florine, who he compared to an annoying dog humping his leg in the film Race for the Nose. They traded speed records on the Nose several times, and when Dean heard that Hans was aiming to be the first person to link up Half Dome and the Nose, he flew back to Yosemite and started the night before, so he could finish the enchainment first.

他也被竞争或成为先驱的渴望所激励——像那些激励大多数人的目标一样。他经常说起试图超越自我，但这显然是在试图突破某些速度纪录或争夺某些首攀的时候。这类竞争的主要对手似乎是 Hans Florine，在影片 Race for the Nose 中，他在腿后挂了一只讨厌的狗以示区别。他俩数次交替保持着攀登 Nose 的速度记录，而当 Dean 听说 Hans 打算成为第一个连攀 Half Dome 和 Nose 的人时，他赶在 Hans 行动前夜飞回优胜美地抢先完成了这个目标。

Dean was the first person to link the three biggest walls in Yosemite, and at various times held many of the most coveted speed records in the Valley. But his exploits in Patagonia make the Yosemite climbs look small, including soloing the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre and a new link-up on Fitz Roy in a single season. Last May, less than two weeks before his unfortunate death in a wing-suit flying accident in Yosemite, he set the car-to-car speed record for running up Half Dome. It’s worth remarking how impressive it is for a 43-year-old alpinist/ aerialist/highliner to set a trail-running record on an objective as high-profile as this.

尽管 Dean 是第一个连攀优胜美地三大岩壁的人，并且多次创造了许多令人惊叹的速度纪录。但与他在 Patagonia 进行的，包括 Cerro Torre 的压缩机路线的独攀和 Fitz Roy 的单季连攀这些成就相比，优胜美地的攀登就不算什么了。去年五月在优胜美地，在他因一次翼装飞行事故中不幸去世不到两周前，他创造了车到车的跑攀 Half Dome 的速度记录。这是如此牛逼闪闪的一个记录，作为一个43岁的攀登者/飞行者/高空扁带玩家，是如何用如此高的标准创造一项越野跑纪录。

Dean’s biggest contribution to his arts might be the way he helped to subtly rewrite what’s considered normal. Speed climbing, simul-climbing, daisy soloing, even the big Yosemite link-ups are now much more common, partially as a result of his influence. Movies like Masters of Stone 5 and Fly or Die exposed people to ways of climbing that would have seemed insane if they weren’t seeing them happen before their eyes.

Dean 对他的艺术的最大贡献，可能是他巧妙地改变了什么才是正常方式的观点。速攀、同攀、独攀甚至优胜美地大型连攀现在都更为普遍，部分原因是因为他的影响。如果人们没有亲眼看到像 Masters of Stone 5 和 Fly or Die 这些影片展现的攀登，他们会认为这是一些疯狂愚蠢的攀登方式。

Dean learned from the climbing community and owed a lot to those who came before him. And then he climbed toward his fears and changed the perception of what was possible.

Dean 从攀登社区学习，并得益于许多前辈。然后他攀向他的恐惧，顺便改变了人们对于什么是可能的看法。

— Alex Honnold

飞马

翻译得很棒！

Griff

描述Heaven的wildly overhanging crack，wildly似乎说的是角度，而不是宽缝

裂缝

"而当 Dean 听说 Hans 打算成为第一个连攀 Half Dome 和 Nose 的人时，他赶在 Hans 行动前夜飞回优胜美地抢先完成了这个目标。"

运动员会这么干, 艺术家不会

天空wk3368

好文

bince

描述Heaven的wildly overhanging crack，wildly似乎说的是角度，而不是宽缝
Griff 发表于 2016-5-20 16:03

    多谢，已修改

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