1、文章来源是下边这三本书,作者也推荐了这三本,有时间的话找来看看,想来应该挺有意思
Climbing In North America by Chris Jones
Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber by Steve Roper
Defying Gravity by Gary Arce。
3、40到70年代,越来越多的bolt应用在大岩壁时,出现了大量的争论。比如密集打钉,就是挂在一颗钉上打下一颗钉的AID方式,出现过二攀队伍把首攀队伍过密的钉部分拆除的事件(黎明墙上的aka Wall of Early Morning Light)。ground up, free方式的攀登打钉争议最少。
回复 3#woodhead
举例:
1988 Climber Mark Chapman punches John Bachar in the neck after Bachar had chopped a route that Ron Kauk and Chapman had bolted in retaliation for them rap-bolting one of his ground-up projects in Yosemite Valley. Chapman was arrested for assault. Later Chapman said, "I wish it had never happened, (Bachar) was a friend of mine, but he rubbed a lot of people the wrong way. I like to think that we've all grown up a lot since then, and still admire John for all of the great things he's done."
1988年,Bachar被揍了,因为他拆了人家一条线路的钉,为什么拆呢? 是报复人家在他要ground-up的一个project上下降打了钉。揍他的人进去了,很后悔。。。。。。
另外,在风总当年转过的一篇著名文章to bolt or not to be上,我看到有这样的描述,欧洲ALPS某特定线路(没说线路名)曾经出现过,“打钉-拆钉-再打上-再拆“的循环。