Lacelle Dead

天空wk3368

Guy Lacelle, the world's most prolific and well-regarded ice climber, died this morning in Hyalite Canyon, just outside Bozeman, Montana.

Lacelle and climbing partner were in a gully between climbs, about four miles from Grotto Falls, when the slide struck. The snow carried Lacelle down two pitches of waterfall ice.

His climbing partner sustained a minor injury. Two others witnessed the avalanche from safe ground.

"[Lacelle] loves climbing and he loves sharing the sport with other people," John Irvine, Arc'teryx sports marketing manager, said to the Bozeman Daily Chronicle. "That's what his life was all about."

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web0 ... pinist+Newswires%29

jane

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/wfeature-solo-lacelle

虽然没有见过lacelle, 但是从我的加拿大朋友那里听到很多关于他的故事，关于他有多高超，关于他有多低调。有的攀登者有”death wish"（求死之愿）,你知道照他／她那样爬，迟早有一天会被自己心里的黑洞吸引，从此离开今世。我崇敬的攀登者热爱生命，爱自己的家人和搭档，爱这个世界。 1997年，Guy Lacelle五个小时连续solo了三条5／6级的长线(replicant, terminator, sea of vapor),下来了没事人一样的和上山的熟人打招呼，一点都没有提他刚刚完成的“伟绩”。每年从12月到来年3月，在Canmore和Banff之间的公路上就可以看见这几条美丽而危险的冰壁。从今以后，我看到trophy wall, 都会想起他的。

Happy trail!

jane

事故分析报告：
http://neice.com/2009/12/hyalite ... y-10-december-2009/

天空wk3368

"He was climbing up a small gully and a team above him triggered a small avalanche," Doug Chabot, director of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center, said. "He wasn't swinging the tools when it happened, it was just an avalanche. A small pocket of snow pulled out and caught him. It hit him and took him off the cliff, down the ice."

原来他是被杀!

玛米亚

经常水边走，总会湿脚。
当然也可能被别人弄起的水花打湿。

藏蓝

“有的攀登者有”death wish"（求死之愿）,你知道照他／她那样爬，迟早有一天会被自己心里的黑洞吸引，从此离开今世。”
这话？……

jane

http://petzlcrew.petzlteam.com/i ... 009/12/14/Adieu-Guy

jane

"To a climber, to a human being, he is just a perfect role model...  How to be real."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCHOOXdQiNw