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发表于 2006-12-25 20:06
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http://www.mtntools.com/cat/alpineice/boots/lasportivatrangoiceevo.htm
The TRANGO ICE EVO has evolved to meet the needs of today's ice and modern mixed climbers who want to hike and climb in the same boots. From the ground up, the ICE EVO is loaded to stack the odds in your favor: This boot uses the same asymmetrical Trango Last and Vibram sticky Supertrek Lavaredo sole with 6-7 mm HP3 midsole as the EXTREME EVO GTX's. Ditto for the 3D Flex System ankle. Uppers are a combination of water proof Lorica (yellow) and water repellent Scholler Keprotec side panels backed with 150 g Thinsulate insulation and 3 bar knit lining. New is a built in Schoeller Dynamic gaiter with elastic drawcord and stretch cover to hide your laces from errant crampon points. Unique to the ICE EVO is the sophisticated Tri-Point Lacing System that locks your heels down for zero heel lift and secure bat hangs. This you have to experience. Delivered anywhere in North America.
best: ice & mixed fit: med-narrow, asymmetrical
color: yellow / black wt: 3 lb 13 oz / 1.72 kg
size: 37-47.5 price: $380.00
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http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/5291483/c/16740.html
2005-06-03 07:03:50 La Sportiva Trango Ice Evo
Reviewer: Isaac W from MInnesota
Overall:4 stars Comfort:5 stars Look:5 stars
Shoe Size: Felt a half size smaller than marked
Shoe Width: Felt true to width
Shoe Arch: Moderate arch support
And the winner is... I have tried on at least 8 different pairs of boots trying to find one that fits my foot well. This one is obviously it. Here is my reasoning for going with this boot: 1: Fit. It is comfortable- I recently got back from some spring mountaineering in Colorado on mixed terrain and snow/ice to 60 degrees. My feet never felt discomfort! I wore them around the office for one day before leaving for Colorado and they seemed to be effortless in breaking in- although I do expect they will get even more comfortable after about one more year. 2: Design. I was originally looking at the Trango Evo GTX, but decided that I might as well buy a boot that I can use ice climbing as well (I have crampons that require both a toe and heel bail.) I really love the lacing. It really pulls your heel in and you can crank down the lacing so there is virtually NO lift in the heel. Or you can loosen up the boot, tighten it up over the top of the foot, and it hikes really well. The weight is not bad at all, still not as light at the Evo GTX, but hey, not much is. I would have liked to see a Gore-Tex liner in this boot. I did notice my foot got a little wet when I walked through some streams and or walking in soft/wet snow. The boots dried out quickly. I was not wearing gaiters, so that could be part of my problem. I really like the built in gaiter- it helped keep snow out of my boot when I was glissaiding. It also keeps small rocks out when hiking. I have yet to try anything completely vertical/overhanging on ice yet but I did some class 4 rock climbing in them and they edged and climbed really well. Overall, this will be the boot I grab when ever the temps get close to or below freezing and I am climbing in the lower 48. Great job La Sportiva! And a big THANK YOU to Zappos.com for free shipping on both the purchase and the return. I will definitely shop with Zappos again!
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http://www.lasportiva.com/magazine/inglese/redazionale/TrangoIceEvoRivistaPareti.htm
The model Trango Ice Evo has been tested by the magazine Pareti
In the middle of December 2004 has arrived in the news-stand the issue nr. 42 of Pareti, specialized magazine of the Italian mountain publishing trade. The magazine is bound to the season and thus a wide part of this issue is reserved to the ice-climbing world. In this context, at page 82, has been published a test about a new product, La Sportiva Trango Ice Evo, just out in the best shops specialized in mountaineering.
Here follows the integral text of the test, by the editor of Pareti.
Oscar Durbiano
LA SPORTIVA TRANGO ICE EVO
A test of a new model 2005 of the catalog La Sportiva, a boot dedicated to the ones who really go to the mountains.
As the name itself says, the Trango Ice Evo is a reviewed, slightly changed and, we would say, also improved version of the model that came into the shops last year. It isn’t a question of materials or of adopted technical solutions, but of both things together, although, from the point of view of design, the product maintains a look coherent with the preceding model. We should state beforehand that to realize such a technical product is a very difficult alchemy: a boot that works on the wall like a climbing shoe, that absorbs the impact of hitting with the crampons, that walks well on the trail while being lightweight, insulating, absolutely waterproof, nice to look at….
Let’s start from the weight, we found it to be 1,55 kg per pair… nothing…. An excellent result especially if we consider it combined with the tests of waterproofness and insulation. Because it would be easy to get a lighter boot, just taking away some material, but then it would become harder to save waterproofness and insulation…. Then let’s look at the waterproofness, that is a guarantee on the entire boot, water doesn’t come through; in our tests we have noticed only an increased humidity near some stitching with the empty boot; the warmth of the foot and the presence of the inner sock make it totally negligible. In the dangerous point, at the collar, where snow or water can get in from above, a small gaiter solves the problems almost always. In the case you are walking in deep snow or along a waterfall with running water, an added gaiter will solve every problems, but this is an accessory that this boot lets you often forget. The sling to adjust the gaiter is slightly too long; pull it inside to avoid accidentally hitting it with the crampons.
Regarding the insulation, everything all right: combined with a warm and breathable sock the Trango Ice Evo will stay with you the entire day in condition of normal temperature. The test took place at the end of November 2004, with humid and warm weather for the period, and temperatures never lower than – 5°; not very significant for extreme conditions, but the shape of the toe box lets expect optimum results also with colder temperature. In fact the boot, although evidently designed with climbing in mind, leaves margin of movement in the right points, a guarantee against frostbite.
Where the boot is really state–of-the-art is climbing, both with crampons and on rock, smearing the Vibram sole on the footholds. Great! The feeling of precise edging and even of friction is very near to the one of a medium level climbing shoe, thanks particularly to the hinge system of the ankle, that allows to move the boot practically like a climbing shoe, try it to believe! Thus don’t be worried, neither on the icefalls, nor on mixed routes, if you aren’t able to move properly it is your fault, not of the Trango, that makes perfectly its duty. A part of this functionality is due to the innovative lacing system, that is the most evident change compared with the preceding model. This system, called T.P.L.H System, allows to adjust the boot extremely precisely, and it’s important to notice that if you lace accurately your boot before starting on the trail or the waterfall, your foot will stay well locked for several hours. The problem (and here we are speaking about one of the question marks of the entire production of the sector, not only about this shoe in particular) is to lace properly the boot, especially in very cold conditions, when perhaps you must pull the laces wearing gloves. To facilitate all this there are two lace locks in the middle that make the tension on the lower and upper part independent from each other. If it weren’t possible to lock the lower part before pulling the laces on the ankle, the T.P.L.H system wouldn’t be of much use. We have found a few difficulties only while locking and unlocking the two lace locks that, we repeat, are fundamental for the Trango to give the best of itself. The dimensions of the lace locks are a little small and they work with difficulty if they are dirty. Practical and functional is the new protection of the knot, to avoid the freezing of the lacing in a single block. Last but not least let’s speak about walking, whose comfort and efficacy are usually inversely proportional with the comfort while climbing on a vertical wall. Everything well, beside a slight “step” effect on flat terrain, to which you get quickly used adapting your gait. |
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