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http://www.freakclimbing.com/Freak/People/Millet.htm
就是重复realization的家伙，业余选手。嘿嘿。谁说业余选手不如职业选手？
Freak People
Sylvain Millet
"...Some 9c will be realized soon!"
by FreakClimbing.com, 4 June 2004
This time super Freak-Sylvain did it!! After 3 years since the first ascent of "Biographie" (commonly known as "Realization") has been repeated!
Let's see what he told us!!
>> PHOTOGALLERY <<
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Well Sylvain, where do we start? From some beer to celebrate?
Ok, but let's start with a little be of history!
It’s Jean-Christophe Lafaille who bolted the route in 89-90, only one pitch of approximately 35m and he named it Biographie.
In 95 Arnaud Petit starts to work the route, as it seems too hard for him to link it, he puts an intermediate belay stance at approximately 18-20m, it will link to this belay stance the next year. Chris Sharma repeated this first part in 97, and I did the same in 99. Chris links to top in 2001 after having worked it in 97 and 2000. He named it "Realization".
For me the route is called "Biographie", the first part is just a half-route that doesn’t have a real existence (there is no enormous rest position, no overhang break, or another reason to justify the stop of a route at the intermediate belay stance)."
Sylvain on "Biographie" 9a+ ph: Yannick Bourgeois
© AlpesMountain
Well, so we will refer to "The Route" as "Biographie"!
Tell us a little bit about You, do You do something else in life or are You a “professional”?
I’m a student. Until last year, I was in an engineer school in Lyon, while this year I'm in in Gap taking correspondence courses to prepare an exam to become professor.
Why did it take so long to repeat Biographie? What Special?
Because there are boulder sections, resistance sections, rest positions are not so good and therefore you need a lot of stamina, it’s technical, there are a lot of different methods and you must find the one which is the best for you. Furthermore... it’s a "very" little bit hard.
In fact “Biographie” isn’t the only 9a+ around the world. What makes it so special then? Apparently it isn’t just the grade, the “number”
I think it’s because of the purity of the line, the beauty of the route, in a splendid cliff. And also because it has waited more than 10 years for a first ascent!
Love or hate for “Biographie”?
Love! For life!
Any special celebration after getting “Biographie”
Many celebrations...
Did You do any special training to get it, or did You just climb on rock?
I climbed a lot on rock, sometimes on climbing walls (maybe 1-2 times a week on average) and I did some training weekends with the French team.
Try to immagine that in your sponsorship contracts the prize for solving “Biographie” was a night with a famous top model: who is the lucky girl?
What a macho question!! Some 9c will be realized soon... is Monica Bellucci free??**
Sylvain on "Biographie" 9a+ ph: Yannick Bourgeois
© AlpesMountain
What would have been more important for You: to do “Biographie” or to win the last leg of World Cup in Imst?
Difficult question…..but I think I prefer to have done "Biog".
Do You also do some bouldering? What do You think about bouldering?
Not so much, maybe twice in a year. It’s too scary.
Do You normally climb in France or do You also like road-trips abroad?
I climb essentially in France, and essentially in Céüse, but why not going somewhere else…
Where would You like to go for a road trip?
Australia, South Africa....
Which is the best way to live climbing?
Like you want …
Plans and projects for the future?
I don’t know …. Climbing why not ??
** is Monica Bellucci free?? |
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IP卡
狗仔卡
发表于 2004-6-11 12:17
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楼主
发表于 2004-6-12 20:38