ZT: Himalaya

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Latest update: 14.8.2003, 00:04.


Himalaya
The highest mountains of the world are located in border area of Nepal and China (Tibet) or in Karakorum (sometimes spelled Karakoram) close to the border between Pakistan and India.

Himalaya (that means The Land of Snow) hardly needs any introduction. It forms over 2000km broad crescent through Northeastern Pakistan (Punjab), Northern India (Garwahl), Southern Tibet, Nepal, Sikkim and Bhutan. It is bordered on the north by the plateau of Central Asia and on the south by the fertile plains of the India. Nine of the world's fourteen 8,000-meter peaks are located in Himalaya.

Climbing in himalaya involves some bureuocracy as climbers have to have a permit and there are other regulations as well. The price of the permits varies considerably with Mount Everest from the Nepalse side being the most expensive. In the other end of the price range are so called "trekking peaks". The word "trekking" does not have anything to do with technical difficulty of these mountains. Some of them are technically quite easy (such as the standard route of Mera Peak), some on the other are extremely difficult (Kusum Kanguru often regarded as the most difficult with the easiest route graded alpine D or TD). There are currently two groups of these trekking peaks; the orginal 18 trekking peaks are group B peaks while "new" trekking peaks form group A (slightly more expensive).

Most visited areas of Himalaya are Annapurna and Khumbu regions in Nepal. Both have lot to offer for climbers. Beside 8000-meter giants (Annapurna I 8091m in the Annapurna area) and (Mount Everest 8850m and Lhotse 8516m) both areas have several trekking peaks. The areas are also popular among the trekkers so there are several lodges and tea houses.

The Karakoram (sometimes spelled Karakorum) in the Northeast Pakistan and Northern India is often regarded as a part of the Himalayas. It is home to world's second highest mountain K2 (8611m). It and 9 other of the world's highest mountains are cluestered around Baltoro glacier. The mountains in Karakoram typically have sharp, angular form and many of icy peaks are surrounded by wild towers and spires. Many of the mountains in Karakoram have technically very difficult ascents. Besides K2, Muztagh Ata, Ogre and Trango Tower are legendary climbers' mountains.

O'Connor Bill: Trekking Peaks of Nepal. Mountaineers Books, 1999. ISBN: 0898866766.
K黱schner Iris: Himalaya. Gipfel der G鰐ter. Bruskmann, 2002.
Razzetti Steve: Trekking and Climbing in Nepal. Stackbole Cooks, 2000. ISBN: 0811729478.
Himalayan Index
The Himalayan Index, an extensive record of expeditions to Asian peaks over 6000m.
Guide to Treking peaks in the Annapurna Sanctuary
Very good route descriptions. At Armchair Mountaineer.
Climbing in the Himalaya Region
Information about the regulations and fees of climbing in Himalaya.
Everest News
Big site containing information about the expeditions to high mountains.
Trekking peaks of Nepal
Very good information about the trekking peaks of Nepl. At Trekkari. In Finnish.
Nepal Mountaineering Association
Official site. Information about climbing in Nepal.
Trekking peaks of Nepal
Information about the Trekking peaks of Nepal. at TrekNepal.
Trekking peaks of Nepal
Very good information about the classic trekking peaks with route maps. At Getaway! Himalayan Eco-Trekking.
Mount Everest 8848 (8850)
Everest lies in Khumbu Himal.
Mount Everest - The Jolly Big Hill. Tallest mountain in the earth is also knowns as Chomolungma (Tibetan, meaning 'Mother Goddess of the District') and Sagarmatha (Nepalese). Mount Everest is the hisghest mountain in the world and one of the seven summits.
Britons became intrigued with reaching the top in the 1890s. Major C.G. Bruce's 1922 expedition was the first of several British attemps on the North Col. Nepal was closed for the westerners at the time, so the early attemsp were made from the north side.
In 1924 George Leigh mallory and Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine disappeared high up on the mountain. Their bodies were found in the spring of 1999, but the question remains open: Did they reach the summit? All things considered, bearing in mind that they still had the second step to climb, it seems highly unlikely that they summited.
In the 1950s the entry to Tibet became impractical due the Chinese takeover, so new route was searched in Nepalese southern side of the mountain.
First ascent was made in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand) and Tenzing Norgay (Sherpa) from South Col. They were members of a British expedition.
In 1960 China launched a massive 214-climber expedition from the North Col. They succeeded to put first three men on top from the Tibetan side.
First ascent without bottled oxygen in 1978 by Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) via South Col.
First winter ascent was made in 1980 by Poles Leszach Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki via SE Ridge.
First solo ascent by Reinhold Messner during the monsoon 1980 via North Col. This ascent was particularly influencial in introducing lightweight alpine style tactics to the highest mountains.
First female ascent by Lydia Bradey (New Zealand) in 1988.
During the 1996 season, 10 climbers died in a day during the storm. Jon Krakauer's book 'Into Thin Air' recounts the tragedy. Though definitely most well known, Krakauer's book is not the only one about the same epic. Beck Weathers (client in Rob Hall's team) recounts his view of the tragedy in 'Left for Dead : My Journey Home from Everest' as does Lene Gammelgard (client in Scott Fischer's expedition) in 'Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy'. Fischer's team guide Anatoli Boukreev shares his view in 'The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest'. Rescuer's point of view is given by David Breashers in 'High Exposure'. Swedish soloist G鰎an Kropp was also on the mountain at the same time (Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey).
First ski descent by Hans Kammerlander in 1996.
First complete ski descent from the summit by Slovenian Davo Karnicar 8.9.2000.
First snowboard descent 24.05.2001 06:00 o'clock by Marco Siffredi via Norton Couloir (North Face 8848-6400m).
Mortals on Mount Olympus: A History of Climbing Everest
Mounteverest.net
Mnteverest.net
Everest links
Mount Everest
Mountain page at Peakware.
Everest
Mountain page at SummitPost.
South Col (normal route)
By far the most popular route. Approach is from Lhasa and Tengboche to the base camp on the rand of Khumbu Icefall (very popular trekking destination). The route climbs throught the Khumbu icefall and up to the South Col.
First ascent by Sir Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay in 1953.
K2 8611
K2, the second highest mountain in the world (and propably the most difficult one), is located in Karakoram range and it rises above Godwi-Austen Glacier. It rises 549 meters higher than the peaks surrounding it. This exposure together with its northernly location (35º northern latitude) subjects the mountain to exceptionally harsh weather.
K2 was found by Europeans as late as 1856 as Captain T.G. Montgomerie surveyed it from a distance of roughly 200 kilometres. He gave the mountain a provisory name of K2, where letter K indicates Karakoram and number 2 is reference number. The mountain is also known as Chogori (or Qogir) and Mount Godwin-Austen (after Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen, first Surveyor-General of the Survey of India).
First attemp was made in 1902 by a party lead by Oscar Eckenstein. They reached altitude of 6524 meters on NE-ridge. The most feasible route was found 1909 by the Duke of the Abruzzi's expedition on SE-ridge, which is now known as Abruzzi Ridge. In 1953 a seven man team led by Charles S. Houston reached 7500 m, but was forced to turn back due bad weather and Thrombosis of Art Gilkey. While lowering Gilkey, the multiple fall dragged five members of the team toward a precipice, but Pete Schoening managed to stop the fall by ice axe belay. Gilkey however went missing during the fall.
First succesfull ascent was made by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli 31.07.1954., who were members of large italian expedition led by Ardito Desio. Nine camps were established during the ascent.
Firts ascent without bottled oxygen took place in 1978 by Americans John Roskelley and Rick Ridgeway. They summited together with fellow Americans Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt via NE Ridge.
First female ascents were made in 1986 by Wanda Rutkiewicz (Poland), Lilianne Barrard /France) and Julie Tullis (UK) via Abruzzi Ridge. Tullish perished in storm while still high on the mountain.
Benoit Chamoux (France) ascented Abruzzi Ridge in 1986 from ABC to summit in just 22,5 hours only few days after soloing Broad Peak in 16 hours.
Because of its majestic shape and fearsome reputation, K2 is features in climbing related movies "K" and "vertical Lmit". The latter was filmed in New Zealand's Southern Alps (Camera flyes by the NZ Classic SE Ridge of Mt.Aspiring during the end credits).
Climbing History of K2
K2
Mountain page at Peakware.
Abruzzi Ridge (SE Ridge)
Easiest and most popular route. Base camp at 5130m in the junction of Godwin-Austen and Filippi glaciers.
First ascent by by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli 31.07.1954.
K2, 8611 m S黡ostsporn (Abruzzi-Sporn)
Excraction in German from "Himalaya ?Magic Lines" by Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables.
Kangchenjunga 8598
Located in Sikkim, Nepal, Kanchenjunga is hat hard by winds and monsoon snow.
The mountain is a complex of X-shaped ridges around four summits:
Kanchenjunga Main 8598m
Kanchenjunga Central 8496m
Kanchenjunga South 8476m
Yalung Kang (West Summit) 8420m
Fist climbing attemp made in 1905 by a party led by Briton Aleister Crowley.
First ascent by Britons George Band, Joe Brown, Tony Streather and Norman Hardie in 1955 via Yalung on SW to main summit.
Traverse of four summits were made in 1989 by a party of 10 Russian climbers.
First solo ascent by Pierre Beghin (France) in 1983 via SW Face.
First Winter ascent in 1985 by Poles Jerzy Kukuczska and Kryzysztof Wielicki. Their partner Czech Andzej Czok died on the descent from pulmonary edema.
Where is Kanchenjunga?
Kangchenjunga
Mountain page at Peakware.
Kangchenjunga
Mountain page at SummitPost.
From Southwest
Lhotse 8501
Located right next to Mount Everest in Khumbu Himal.
Lhotse means 'south peak' as it stands immediately south of Mount Everest, separated by it by South Col.
Lhotse is a ridge consisting of three summits:
Main Summit 8501m
Lhotse Middle 8430m
Lhotse Shar 8386m
First climbed by Swiss Fritz Luchsinger and Ernest Reiss in 1956 via Khumbu Ice Fall and NW Face.
South Face was regarded as one of the last geat problems in Himalaya. A Line leading to Lhotse Shar was climbed by Czech team in 1983. The line leading to main summit was climbed in 1990 by Russian team, which put Sergei Bozhov and Vladimir Karataev on the top. Slovenian Tomo Cesen claimed to have soloed the line earlier on the same year, but considerable doubt has been placed on his claim.
Lhotse middle saw its first ascent by four members of the Russian Lhotse Middle Expedition from West Side on 23rd May 2001 at 3:00 p.m. Summiteers were Serguei Timofeev, Peter Kouzentsov, Alexei Bolotov and Evgueni Vinogradski.
Lhotse
Mountain page at Peakware.
Lhotse
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Lhotse Middle
Mountain page at SummitPost.
West Buttress
Shares the base camp and lower part of the route with Everest South Col route.
First ascent by Swiss Fritz Luchsinger and Ernest Reiss in 1956.
Makalu 8463
Fifth Highest mountain in the world and one of the hardest.
Makalu is located in Barun Valley in Nepal.
First climbed by French party consisting of Jean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Jean Franco, Guido Magnone, Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux, André Vialatte and Gyalzen Norbu in 1955. They used NE Ridge from makalu La.
Japanes team made the first ascent from Tibet in 1982.
Makalu
Mountain page at Peakware.
Makalu
Mountain page at SummitPost.
North Flank and Ridge
First ascent by FJean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Jean Franco, Guido Magnone, Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux, André Vialatte and Gyalzen Norbu in 1955.
Cho Ouy 8201
Cho Ouy is ilocated in mahalangur Himar, 32 km NW of Mount Everest on the border between China and Nepal.
Loosely translated its Tibetan name means 'turquoise demon'.
First expedition took place in 1952 and it was led by Eric Shipton and included Emnund Hillary. They discovered a promising route from the NW over the Nangpa La.
First climbed by Herbert Tichy, Sepp Jöchler and Pasang Dawa Lama in 1954 via NW Flank. The ascent is recounted on Tichy's book 'Cho Ouy: By Favour of the Gods'. This first ascent route is regarded as one of the easiest route to a 8000 meter peak.
First winter ascent was made by a Polish team led by Andrej Zawada and including Jerzy Kukuczka in 1984.
In 1988 the route was climbed in 22 hours from 5701m by Marc Batard and Sundare Sherpa.
In winter of 1988 Spaniard Fernando Garrido soloed the route.
Joseph M. Coughlin's Cho Ouy page
Cho Ouy '97
By Bartley.
Cho Oyu '97
Spring 1997 by Hartmut Bielefeldt.
Cho Ouy '99
Spring 1999 by Hartmut Bielefeldt.
Cho Oyu 1998 - routes and ascent history
from Trekkari. In Finnish.
Cho Ouy
Mountain page at Peakware.
Alexander Huber Cho Ouy Expedition
Cho Oyu
Mountain page at SummitPost.
NW Flank (normal route)
Approach via Zhang Mu, Nyalam and Tingri or from Lhasa via Tingri to Driver's camp (4900m). Base camp at 5650m.
Firn spur descending WNW from the summit. The route follows the pillar descending from the top of serac barrier (6750m) towards Peak 6446 (Westbollwerk). At approximately 7600m low step (4-10m) cuts the whole spur. Along the West Buttress to the summit. Customarily 3 high camps (6400m, 7050m & 7400m).
First ascent by Herbert Tichy, Sepp Jöchler & Pasang Dawa Lama in 1954.
Dhaulagiri 8172
Dhaulagiri is located in Dhaulagiri Himal in Western Nepal.
West Face ranks with the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat and Wickersham Wall of Denali as the biggest walls on earth.
First ascent finally succeeded after six usuccesfull attemps in 1960. The Swiss expedition did not use supplemental oxygen and put Ernst Forrer, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Albin Schelbert and Sherpas Nima Dorje and Nawang Dorje on the summit.
Greek Dhaulagiri Expedition Spring 1999
Dhaulagiri
Mountain page at Peakware.
Andrew Lock's Expedition
Dhaulagiri
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Northeast Ridge
Manaslu (Managula) 8163
Manaslu lies in Mansiri (or Managula, Gurkha) Himal.
First climbed by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernest Forrer, Albin Scelbert, Michel Vaucher, Hugo Weber, Nawang Dorje and Nyama Dorje in 1960.
West Face was judged 'Impossible without wings' by H.W. Tilman, until a French team including Pierre Beghin climbed it in 1981.
Manaslu
Mountain page at Peakware.
Manaslu
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Northeast Flank
Nanga Parbat (Diamir) 8126
Nanga Parbat lies in Pakistan being the most westernly of the 8000 meter peaks and is notorious of avalanches and fierce storms.
It has three glaciated faces: Rkahiot on the north, Diamir on the west and Rupal on the south.
Nanga Parbat means in Sanskrit 'naked mountain'.
First attemp C.G. Bruce, Dr. J.N. Collie, G. Hastings and Alfred Mummery made first attemp in 1895 in lightweight alpine style. Mummery and two Gurkhas disappeared when trying to cross a pass between Rakhiot and Diamir glaciers.
Germans made several attemps in the 30ies. Most famous of them is the 1939 expedition during which the team was interned in India as the World war II broke out during the expedition. This began the saga of escape and travel in India and Tibet that is described in a book 'Seven Years in Tibet' written by Austrian member of the expedition Heinrich Harrer. It was filmed in 1990 whit Brad Pitt playing Harrer.
First ascent by Hermann Buhl in 1953 via Rakhiot Face. He was a member of expedition led by Dr. Karl maria Herrligkoffer. Herman Buhl's book 'Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage' describes the first ascent. This is very legendary ascent during which Buhl endured a bivouac at over 8000m.
Reinhold Messner summited in 1970 with his brother Gunther via Rupal Face. On the descent via Diamir Face Gunther perished. Messner returned in 1978 to solo a new route on Diamir Face (book by Messner: 'Nanga Parbat Solo'.
map: Nanga Parbat & Gilgit. 1:150 000 NR6.
M鋜tin Ralf: Nanga Parbat - Wahrheit und Wahn des Alpinismus. Berlin Verlag, 2002.
Nanga Parbat
Mountain page at Peakware.
Kinshofer Route (Diamir (West) Face)
Approach via Karakorum highway via Rowalpindi to Genar Farm or Bunar Das. Access to base camp is multi-day hike through Bunar and Diamir valleys. Base Camp is located on a big plain under Diamir Face at 4500m.
3900m, usually 3-4 high camps.
First ascent by Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mennhardt & Siegi L鰓 in 1962.They were members of expedition led by Karl Maria Herligkoffer.
Rakhiot Face (North side)
Technically easiest route but very serious due to avalanche danger.
First ascent by Hermann Buhl in 1953.
Annapurna I 8078
Annapurna is located in Annapurna Himal in central Nepal.
Annapurna was the first 8000 meter peak to be climbed. The first ascent was made in 1950 by a French team including Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat. Herzog wrote a book 'Annapurna' about the ascent.
South Face was first climbed in 1970 by a party led by Briton Chris Bonington. Don Whillans and Dougal Haston reached the summit. Bonnington's book 'Annapurna South Face' recounts the climb.
Annapurna I
Mountain page at Peakware.
Annapurna I
Mountain page at SummitPost.
From West via North Face (French Route)
Propably the easiest route. However, the route is avalanche prone and extremely dangerous. BC at 4250.
"Dutch Spur" variant objectively slightly less dangerous.
First ascent by Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray & Gaston Rebuffat in 1950.
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) 8068
Located in Baltoro Mustagh (Karakoram Range) in Pakistan.
W.M. Conway gave it the name 'Hidden Peak' because it cannot be seen until one reaches the Abruzzi Glacier ath the end of the Baltoro Glacier.
First ascent by Andrew Kauffmann and Pete Schoening in 1958 via SW Ridge.
NW face was climbed by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in alpine style in 1975. This 3 day roundtrip is a milestone in alpine style mountaineering at altitude. All previous successes on 8000m peaks had relied on well stocked camps and fixed ropes (eventhough First ascent of Broad Peak was done without bottled oxygen and high-altitude porters).
In 1985 Messner returned with Hans Kammerlander (Austria) to link Gasherbrum I to Gasherbrum II in the first continous traverse of two 8000 meter peaks.
Gasherbrum I
Mountain page at Peakware.
Southeast Ridge and Urdok-Kamm (normal route)
Broad Peak 8047
Broad Peak lies in Baltoro Mustagh (Karakoruam Range) in Pakistan.
It has three distinct summits:
Main Peak 8047m
Central Peak 8000m
North Peak 7550m
First ascent by Austrians Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Buhl, Markus Schmock and Fritz Wintersteller in 1957 via West Spur. Neither supplemental oxygen nor high-altitude porters were used.
First female ascent was made by Krystyna Palmowska (Poland) in 1983.
Kryztof Wielicki (Poland) summited in 16 hours from base camp in 1984 and Benoit Chamoux likewise in 16 hours in 1986.
Traverse of all three summits was made in 1984 by Polish Wojciech Kurtyka and Jerzy Kukuczka alpine style starting with the North face of the North Peak.
Broad Peak
Mountain page at Peakware.
West Sour (Normal route)
First ascent by Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Buhl, Markus Schmock and Fritz Wintersteller in 1957.
Gasherbrum II 8035
Located in Baltoro Mustagh (Karakoram Range) in Pakistan.
First ascent by Sepp Larch, Fritz Moravec and Hans Willenpart in 1956 via SW Ridge.
Gasherbrum II
Mountain page at Peakware.
Photo Gallery
Gasherbrum II: A Journey to 26,360 Feet in the Karakoram
By Bob Ader.
SW Ridge and East Ridge (normal route)
Shisha Pangma (Gosainthan, Xixabangma) 8012
Shishma Pangma lies in Tibet, 16 km from Nepalese border.
Shishma Pangma means 'the crest above the grassy plain'. The Sanskrit name of the mountain Gosainthan means 'home of the goods'.
First ascent was made by a 195-member Chinese expedition, which put 10 climbers on top in 1963 via North Ridge.
In 1982 Britons Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter Jones made a new route in SW Face in alpine style, which was a major breakthrough for alpine style climbing on high peaks in the Himalayas. Scott's book 'The Shishapangma Expedition' describes the ascent.
Aberlein Manfred: Shisma Pangma - eine deutsche Tibetexpedition bezwingt den letzten Achttausender. Gustav L黚be Verlag, 1980.
map: Mt.Xixabangma (Shisma Pangma), 8013 m. 1:100 000. Chinese Institut.
Shisha Pangma
Mountain page at Peakware.
Nortwest Face and North Ridge (normal route)
Approach via Dhulikhel, Zhangmin and Laulung Leh Pass to Jeep Base Camp at 5000. From there with yaks to actual base camp on Shisha Pangma glacier (5635m).
One of the most popular routes of any on a 8000 meter peaks. Camps usually at 6350, 6950 and 7350m. RUS 6A.
First ascent by 10 members of Chinese expedition in 1963.
Gasherbrum IV 7925
Ogre 7285
First ascent by Chris Bonington and Doug Scott in 1977 via West Ridge. The first ascent is one of the most famous epics in the history of alpinism. Doug Scott broke both his legs right after they had summited. As if this was not bad enough, storm broke in. Chris Bonington describes the epic in Everest Years.
Despite several attemps, the second ascent succeeded only in 2002 by Thomas Huberm, Iwan Wold & Urs St鯿ker. Thomas Huber recounts the ascent in Ogre - Gipfel der Tr鋟me (BLV Verlag, 2002).
Ogre
Mountain page at Peakware.
Baruntse 7229
Located in Hunku between Khumbu/Chukung Valley on the Northwest, Hongu Valley on the South-West and Barun Valley on the East.
First Ascent by Todd & Harrow in 30.05.1954.
Regarded as one the most accessible among the 7000m peak in Himalaya.
South (SE) Ridge (normal route)
Approach either from East (Lower Barun Glacier) or from West (Hongu Khola). Base camp at 5800m and ABC near the West Col (6135m). Customarily two high camps on the foot of South East ridge (6420m) and at 6650m. D+, 45-50°.
Pumori 7161
Pumori
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Machhapuchare 7000
Machhapuchare
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Ama Dablam 6856
Very beautiful symmetrical mountain in Khumbu region looking over the famous Tengboche monastery.
In Sherpa language the name means "Mother's jewel box".
First attempted by Sir Edmund Hillay in 1961.
Ama Dablam
Mountain page at Peakware.
Ama Dablam
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Southwest Ridge (normal route)
Very popular route, usually completely equipped with fixed rope from Camp I to the summit. Base camp at (4500m) and ABC at 5200m. Actual ridge is gained at 5800m. Usually three high camps. Crux is a steep pitch at Yellow tower.
TD+ if there were no fixed ropes, 5.5, 45-55°.
Southwest Ridge route description
By Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam Team
1997 International Expedition: Technical Peak Attempt
The 1997 Winter Ama Dablam Expedition
Expedition led by Jim Williams via SW Ridge.
Peak 41 ("Real Mera") 6654
Due to disparity in maps and trekking peak lists, this can/could be climbed with the permit of Mera Peak.
First ascent by Matic Jo歵, Urban Golob and Uro?Samec via West face 16.10.2002.
The Mera Mixup. It turned out, that thousands of mountaineers have climbed the wrong peak.
Real Mera Expedition
First known attemp to climb real Mera Peak.
West Face
Ice. TD+, 55-80? 1500m fromthe saddle. First ascent took 2 daus (bivouac at small col north of the summit (6500m). From there exposed ridge (50-65?to the summit.
First ascent by Matic Jo歵, Urban Golob and Uro?Samec via West face 16.10.2002.
Slovenian Peak 41 expedition
Site of the first ascent party.
Shivling 6543
Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) 6501
Trekking peak located in Annapurna Himal in Annapurna Sanctuary. Highest of the trekking peaks.
North-East Face
Starts from the base camp of Machhapuchhare. Climbs on the west side of Annapurna glacier to the first high camp at the end of Tharpu Chuli glacier. From there easy terrain to to the north side of SE Ridge (camp 2 at 4900m). Third camp at the foot of NE Face (5500-5600m). Snow couloir to the foot of the 120m face. The lower part of the face is turned on the left and upper part is climbed through the face. Along the ridge to the summit serac. AD+/D-.
First ascent by Wilfred Noyce & David Cox 13.06.1957.
Perun (Southeast Face)
ED2, VI+/VI max 90° avg. 65°.
First ascent by Bojan Pockar, Ziga Petric, Ramesh Dolaras Chetri & Pasangnuri Sherpa in 10.06.1995.
South Ridge
Approach from the Macchapucchare base camp cross the South Annapurna Glacier and moraines to head up the valley to the North (towards the West Annapurna Glacier) until a rocky step. Scramble or abseil down and up the valley to grassy meadows (base camp 4200m). Northwards along the West Annapurna Glacier and its moraine (another possible base camp location) and to the west to a grassy shelf beside the glacier on the South East flank of Singu Chuli (4900m, high camp/ABC).
Up the glacier beneath the East Face to the South Ridge, culminating in climbing up a snow ramp which takes you above a serac band just below the ridge (around 6000m, suitable bivvy site). Along the ridge to the summit. D.
First ascent in 1987.
West Face
From the Annapurna Base Camp follow the South Annapurna Glacier until the lowest point of the face.
limb up the moraine towards an obvious spur. Follow the spur up pinnacles and steep ice until you reach the summit plateau, then follow a tricky (usually corniced) ridge to the summit. ED-.
First ascent by Alex McIntyre, Rene Ghilini & John Porter in 09/1982.
Mera Peak 6476
Mera is located to the south of Everest and dominates the valleys of Hinku and Hongu.
Due to disparity in maps and trekking peak lists, the actual height of trekking peak Mera is 6476m, not 6654 (which is the height of much harder Peak 41).
The highest of Nepalese trekking peaks. Easiest route is considered non-technical.
Mera has two distinct summits with the Northern one being the highest.
Summits West 6255m, North 6476m, Central 6461m, South 6065m
First ascent (Eastern Summit) by Jimmy Roberts & Sen Tenzing 20.05.1953 via North face.
First ascent by Jolly, Baus & Honills in 1975.
Mera Peak
Mountain page at Peakware.
Mera Peak
Mountain page at SummitPost.
North Face (normal route)
From the Mera La pass (5415m) conneting the valley of Hongu to the Hinku Valley. Base camp is usually at Khare base camp at the start of glacier leading to the Mera La (5099m, six days trek from Lukla). One or two high camps are customary (5385m, below Mera La and at 5800m).Glacier may be crevassed. PD, Scottish I
First ascent (eastern Summit)by Jimmy Roberts & Sen Tenzing 20.05.1953.
First ascent by Jolly, Baus & Honills in 1975.
Wrath of Mera
Report of expedition to Mera.
Mera Peak 98
Report of expedition to Mera by S. Kraml. In German.
Kusum Kanguru 6369
Kusum Kanguru dominates the southern end of Charpati Himal separates the valley of the Dudh Koshi in the south from the upper reaches of Hinku Drangka in the north.
The name Kusum Kanguru comes from Tibetan meaning 揟hree Snow Peaks?
Kusum Kanguru is an impressive and complex rock and ice peak with three summits and at least five major ridges and faces. The north face of the main summit, an ice wall 1800m, is the most spectacular one.
The peak is (one of the) most difficult trekking peaks to climb, all possible routes are technically difficult and require normally at least one bivouac.
First ascent by a Japanese team in autumn 1979 via South-East Face. Four other expedition had turned back unsuccesfully before.
Kwangde 6187
Trekking peak in Lumding/Rolwaling Himal (Khumbu region).
Forms an impressive 5km ridge with four distint summits (Kwangde Lho 6187m, Kwangde Shar 6093m, Kwangde Nup 6035m & Kwangde Nupla 5885m). Rising south-west of Namche Bazaar above the Bhote Kosi river, the mountain's northern flank forms an impressive barrier that throws down several steep ridges to the north. It's glaciated southern flank is more aloof. It is hidden at the northern end of the Lumding Drangka, a high and remote valley.
All of the routes climbed to date on the Kwangde Peaks are difficult, the routes on the North Face (hungo Face) particularly so.
First ascent by Lhakpa Tenzing, Sonam Gyalzen, Shambhu Tamang & Sonam Hisi 17.10.1975 via the South Ridge.
Kwangde Lho, Hungo Face Lowe-Breashears
VII/WI6 X, 1400m.
Firsat ascent by Jeff Lowe & david Breashears 11/1982.
Kwangde Lho, South Ridge
Approach to southern side either from Ringmo-Traksindu La or Lukla- Moro La. Base camp at 4700m, 2 high camps (first at 5100m, the second at the upper part of the glacier). AD+/D.
First ascent by Lhakpa Tenzing, Sonam Gyalzen, Shambhu Tamang & Sonam Hisi 17.10.1975.
Imja Tse (Island Peak) 6183
Located in Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area.
The most popular trekking peak in Nepal.
From Dingboche the mountain is clearly seen as a pyramid of ice and rock. Imja Tse is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar seperated by a small col. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier.
Imja Tse
Mountain page at SummitPost.
Southeast Flank/Southwest Ridge (normal route)
The usual site for base camp is at Pareshaya Gyab at 5087m, between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier (threatened by avalanches). Well acclimatized party can make the roundtrip to the summit in a day from base camp. However, most parties use one high camp. PD/PD+ with ice IV/PD (45°).
First ascent by Evans, Gregory, Wylie, Tenzing & 7 sherpas in 1953.
South East Flank/ South West Ridge
Route page at SummitPost.
North Ridge
The route follows the true right bank of Imja glacier and right bank Lhotse Sar glacier, then climbs northwest slopes to the col of North Ridge (5700m, possible high camp) and continues along the snowy and possibly corniced ridge to the summit. Little more difficult than the normal route. PD+.
First ascent by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook & two Sherpas in 1958.
Lobuche East (Lobuje East) 6119
Trekking peak in the Khumbu region.
South Ridge (normal route)
Base camp close to lake at approximately 5100m. Via flank to South ridge (40-50°). High camp at the juction of ridges. From high camp along the snowy South Ridge to eastern summit (Lobuje Far East). PD. Most climbers stop here. Down to col and steeply to main summit. AD/D.
First ascent by Nielson & Ang Gyalzen in 04/1984.
East Face Couloir
From Lobuje village (4940m) to lake, from there to the foot of the face. Left side couloir to south ridge (at leats four long climbing sections, max Scottish 5). From the col along the ridge to the summit. TD, one day.
First ascent by Lowe & Kendal in spring 1986.