转贴自绿野：婆缪山的一些情况 <网址>

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转贴自绿野：婆缪山的一些情况 <网址>
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感谢roof做的卓越的工作！
四姑娘山区的探险史，最早可以追述到上世纪20年代美国人约瑟夫的首次探查，1932年美国人登顶贡嘎山以后，又激起了更多外国探险家和登山家对四川山峰的探究。
1980年，美国登山者首次尝试攀登5413米的婆缪峰(Pomiu），这是有正式记载的首次攀登；1983年10月8-9日，由Edwards Ville任领队、著名的Yosemite攀登先锋Allen Steck担任攀登队长（队员埃里克鲍曼、比尔拉尔、皮特怀特、布罗克瓦格斯塔夫、鲍勃施奈德）的一支小型登山队6人由西南壁登顶，他们从4785米的C1营地到登顶用时约8小时，路线整体难度达到5.10c，这是有正式记载（新华社1983年10月21日北京电）的首次登顶，他们记录的高度是5334米。
1985年8月5日，美国AAC会员Keith Brown单人由婆缪峰东南山脊新路线登顶，高度记载为5700米。Keith Brown在相关文字里说：“上升过程非常紧凑，用了28个绳距，天气也较晴朗，花费了3天；下降时从无法攀登的东壁下降，天气对登山者来说是无法预料的”。
1994年，美国人Charlie Fowler单独由西南山脊新路线登顶四姑娘主峰后，又去SOLO了几座卫峰（5383米、5434米、5666米）；1997年，美国人Jeff Hollenbaugh、Mike Pennings由婆缪峰西南壁路线登顶（10pitch，整体难度5.9），高度记载为5413米。Hollenbaugh后来在American Alpine Journal中撰文：“这里的岩石很多路段是天然花岗岩，不像优胜美地，也不象巴塔哥尼亚和巴基斯坦”。面对这些岩壁，更多攀登者都认为这些山峰几乎无法攀登，很多笔直的岩壁很少能见到，像一条马路(“令人毛骨悚然”---一个美国登山者的描述）从小金河向南侧铺开。
除了婆缪峰以外，2001年8-9月，意大利四姑娘登山队（Gianluca Bellin、Diego Stefani、Marco Sterni、Gianluca Bellin、Diego Stefani），队员Gianluca Bellin和Diego Stefani由西南壁首次登顶双桥沟内一座海拔5200米的“Wong Shan”，该路线被命名为“Marco Polo”（850米，16pitch，难度6c A1）。意大利登山者首次在2000年春季尝试攀登，因为恶劣天气和深雪而不得不从西南壁原路线返回大本营。一年后，他们再度返回四姑娘山，然而恶劣的天气使得他们在大本营之外，攀登的机会都很少。
2001年，双桥沟内聚集了三支登山队：一支意大利7人队、一支意大利3人队和美国攀登者Luebben兄弟的攀冰队。在登顶之前，其他两队已经在山谷中尝试了多日，在恶劣的天气面前，他们都退却了。Luebben（Craig Luebben、Silvia Luebben）兄弟仅仅攀登了原计划800米路线的一个pitch，而Marco Sterni的意大利登山队则在时间用尽时结组攀登了300米的路线。
Luebben兄弟俩率领的攀冰队在2001年冬天终于在双桥沟南部寻找到了合适的攀冰场所，他们发现了很多条水冰攀登路线，难度最高达到WI6+。他们在2003年第一期《CLIMBING》杂志上发表了一篇双桥沟攀冰的文章。
2002年，日本登山者等6人登顶牛心山，而英国登山者Mike (Twid) Turner和韩国忠北山岳会登山队（10人）均宣布首次登顶海拔5500米的五色山（相对高度差近1000米花岗岩岩壁），不过该消息还有待证实。
（该文章部分内容来自英国、美国AAC、意大利、日本山岳会等国阿尔卑斯俱乐部及多个登山网站信息资讯，马德民编译，-mh、kristian、独行马、小毛驴0024、janeclimber、横滨9264等网友对此文亦有贡献）

原文 http://www.lvye.org/bbs/showthreaded.php?Number=471129&page=0&view=expanded&sb=5#Post471129

本贴由自由的风于2003年7月26日19:49:52在〖岩与酒〗发表.

一些原文网页
http://summitpost.com/mountains/mountain_link.pl?mountain_id=1813
http://www.kbrown.kinformation.com/htm_mount/mountain.htm

http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/highmountainmag/mountaininfo/dec2001/mtninfodec2001.htm

本贴由自由的风于2003年7月27日12:26:48在〖岩与酒〗发表.

bince进进
SICHUAN
Siguniang
Wong Shan
Italian climbers, Gianluca Bellin and Diego Stefani, made the first ascent of 5,200m Wong Shan in Siguniang’s Shuang Qiao Valley. The pair climbed an 850m rock route on the South West Face, which they named Marco Polo. The 16-pitch route was completed in a day on the 29th September and gave difficulties up to 6c and A1 (a pendulum). The Italians first attempted the route in the spring but bad weather and very deep snow at the base of the wall forced them to return without setting foot on the face. Their second visit took place in August-September but almost constant bad weather kept them confined to Base Camp for most of their stay.

Prior to this ascent two other teams had been in the valley attempting routes but both had failed due to the almost incessant bad weather. Craig and Silvia Luebben only managed to climb a single pitch at the start of a proposed line on an 800m pillar, while Marco Sterni’s Italian team managed 300m of its route before running out of time.
Access to these walls, just a few of many unclimbed rock faces in the spectacular Siguniang Range of the Hengduan Shan west of Chengdu, is quite straightforward, as a poor dirt road (‘horrific’ according to an American Chengdu resident and mountaineer) has been constructed up the valley from the Xiaojin River to the south. Vehicle access is therefore possible to a Base Camp at 3,600m and the Italians were easily able to establish an Advanced Base two or three hours and 800m below the foot of the wall.
The history of mountaineering in the Siguniang, a concentraton of medium-altitude granite peaks, is fairly brief. Japanese climbed the highest peak, Siguniang (officially 6,250m but thought to be as much as 330m lower) in 1981 and two years later Allen Steck led an American team on the first ascent of Celestial Peak (5,334m) via the South West Face (5.10c).
（西南壁花岗岩岩壁 5.10C，下面说不好设保护，打了Bolt，架了绳子。但Bolt 有20多年了，恐怕不能用了。估计西南壁台光滑了，也找不到好缝）
Fixed ropes and bolts were used on the often naturally-unprotectable granite. Several impressive first ascents on more ice/mixed terrain have been made solo by globe-trotting American, Charlie Fowler, and in 1997, Americans, Jeff Hollenbaugh and Mike Pennings, climbed a 10-pitch 5.9 on a rock peak southwest of Celestial.
（97年西南方10段，还是摩擦面）
Much of the granite is of a slabby nature and while Hollenbaugh is quoted in the American Alpine Journal as saying the rock is good but not Yosemite, Patagonia or Pakistan, the Italians likened it to climbing in the Mello Valley (Bregaglia-Masino) with few continuous crack systems.
（没什么连续缝）
Unfortunately, the only time when stable weather periods are likely is in winter.
（冬天天气最稳定）
The region appears to be subjected to two monsoon airstreams and during the autumn,
(秋天受两个季候风影响，攀岩者最好的时段。10月份？中旬怎么样？)
probably the best period for the rock climber, the weather can at best be described as very unstable,
（好像又说秋天天气不稳定？雪只有墙基那么高）
with snow falling as low as the base of the walls. Acting on a hunch, Luebben and friends returned in the winter of 2001 and investigated the southern valleys for accessible ice. They discovered a wealth of icefall climbing and created around a dozen routes up to WI6+.

本贴由自由的风于2003年7月27日13:16:24在〖岩与酒〗发表.

又仔细看了一下
10段5.9的线路是婆缪山西南方的另外一个山峰。婆缪好像还是5.10c。不过能爬10个绳距的线路我也很满足了。5.9也狠好，在控制范围之内。
另外一篇东东里说婆缪他们爬了28个绳距，按50米一个算，有1400米。那篇东东的连接我也给出了。

Several impressive first ascents on more ice/mixed terrain have been made solo by globe-trotting American, Charlie Fowler, and in 1997, Americans, Jeff Hollenbaugh and Mike Pennings, climbed a 10-pitch 5.9 on a rock peak southwest of Celestial.

本贴由自由的风于2003年7月27日13:30:39在〖岩与酒〗发表.

bince再进进
http://www.kbrown.kinformation.com/htm_mount/mountain.htm
(written for the American Alpine Journal)

1985 CELESTIAL PEAK ( 5700m./18,700 ft.) EXPEDITION
On 05 August I made the second ascent of Celestial Peak in the Zhong Ping valley of Sichuan, China, solo via new route on the SE ridge.The ascent consisted of 28 rope lengths of technical rock climbing on very compact, clean granite. The ascent took 3 days and the descent consisted of 19 repells down the unclimbed east face. The ascent was made in clear weather, but the descent was made in a rainstorm and the weather was unsettled for most of the expedition.
Keith Brown AAC member

(东南山脊，28个绳距，紧凑、干净的花岗岩。爬了3天，东壁下降了19个绳距)

本贴由自由的风于2003年7月27日13:34:59在〖岩与酒〗发表.

American Alpine Journal <网址>
American Alpine Journal http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/drilldownresults.cfm?Step=1&FullCat=American%20Alpine%20Club%2CAmerican%20Alpine%20Journal
本贴由自由的风于2003年7月27日13:51:30在〖岩与酒〗发表.

我这篇文章多半是你下面搜索到的文章拼凑的
准确性倒是核实过的，日本山岳会的中村保看过，不过他们对四姑娘山的北壁、西山脊路线更感兴趣。

never stop climbing

本贴由mdm53于2003年7月28日09:50:36在〖岩与酒〗发表.