top 10 Ascent of the year 2011

zenith

9和10真是精彩，2盘大棋，对精力、勇气、创造力、实力都提升到新高度。

10. Alexander Odintsov, West Face of Latok III, First Ascent

Though the West Face of Latok III had already proven itself deadly to Alexander Odintsov—nearly killing three climbing partners in 2000, and then actually killing one partner in 2001—his obsession and determination ultimately prevailed and led to the first ascent of this enormous high-altitude mixed climb.

This summer, Odintsov led a Russian expedition—including the climbers Alexey Lonchinskiy, Ivan Dozhdev and Eugeniy Dmitrienko—to the top of Latok III (6,949 meters) via its West Face.

The team spent over two weeks on the route—a significant period of time to be at altitude—climbing in capsule style and utilizing about eight different portaledge camps

This was Odintsov’s third time on Latok III’s West Face. The first expedition in 2000 ended when three team members were injured in an avalanche. The second expedition, a year later, ended in tragedy when Igor Barikhin died when rockfall cut the rope he was ascending.

The West Face had seen two unsuccessful attempts prior to Odinstov’s efforts, with neither attempt reaching higher than 6,300 meters. Greg Collins and Phil Powers first attempted the West Face in 1992. Six years later, Kitty Calhoun, Steve Quinlan, Ken Sauls and Jay Smith tried for the FA.

Though not employing perfect alpine-style on their ascent, the Russians got ‘er done for one of the most impressive high-altitude climbs this year.






和9. Josh Wharton, Whit Magro, Nate Opp, The Wave Effect, Patagonia

The idea to enchain the three Patagonia titans Desomochada, Silla and Fitz Roy into one mega alpine objective was originally conceived by the late Patagonia faithful Bean Bowers, 38, who died in July of cancer.

Over the last three years, Josh Wharton had been eying the long-standing project, and in February, he teamed up with Whit Magro and Nate Opp and completed The Wave Effect (5.12+).

Said Wharton, “I've been lucky enough to do a fair number of big alpine climbs in my life, and this one certainly enters my top five! I feel very lucky to have pulled it off after many years of waiting for the right conditions, and especially enjoyed sharing it with Nate and Whit.”

During the enchainment, the trio of American climbers established two new routes with free climbing up to 5.12+. The conditions were in good nick after an earlier month-long dry spell that exposed rock normally too icy to free climb.

Beginning on Desomochada, they established the new route Brass Parrot (5.12+), with a bivy 300 feet below the first summit. The next day, despite deteriorating conditions, they eked out the new route Vertical Current on Silla, simultaneously making the third ever ascent of this peak. After another exposed bivy, they woke to a whiteout on the shoulder of Fitz Roy. From here, Wharton rope-gunned the California Route in five hours, freeing every pitch.

“The Wave Effect was a five-day odyssey for us,” said Magro. “We kept faith in the forecast and never stopped looking forward, one summit at a time.”

陶瓷虾

10条俄罗斯路线，还差最后一条