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发表于 2010-8-19 11:05
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本帖最后由 自由的风 于 2010-8-19 03:52 编辑
昨天还在纠结要不要搞一双超级高端的Testarossa，但发现只有比我平时穿的鞋子小半号的；今天好了完全不用纠结了——连这号码的也没了。
这样倒也踏实。老老实实继续等我的Moccasym。
几个关于Testarossa的评论：
By: skipunkx
May 9, 2010
I have the dragon, solution, and testarosa and have used the team. None of these really stretch much, but do mold to the shape of your foot well. The dragon is good if you have a med-wide foot. I don't, so I'm not a fan. The teams and solutions have a more med-narow, low volume fit. The testarosas will fit a med to narow depending on the way they are laced and fit more diverse shapes and volumes. All three have great heels. They all fit an average heel well. The testarosa has the least rubber, but it is right where you need it and has the most sensative heel. The solution has a very stiff heel cup that has a big ball of sticky rubber. It is the best for hooking and heel protection (missing the crash pad), but least sensative and takes getting used to. The team heel is close to the testarosa, but a little more protective and less sensative. The testarosa is easiest on and off, but a little slower with the laces, the other two are tuff to pull on, especialy when dry (they aren't too bad with a little sweat in them) or new. The testarosa is the most powerful edger, but the solution is very close. The team is very soft and sensative, so better for smearing, but not as good for power edging. They are all excelent in the steeps, but the testarosa and solution are also good on faces and slabs (think short slabs with dificult footwork and dime edges (long hauls and downturned shoes don't go well together). The solution and testarosa are two of the most comfy down turned shoes ever. The team, due to the softness need to be fit very snug, but aren't bad either, especialy for bouldering and steep sport where you get to take them off often. The solutions are the best for toe hooking. The teams have lots of toe rubber and hook well too. The Testarosas only have a stratigicaly placed bit of rubber over the big toe, but thanks to that and the shape, they hold their own in that category. Bottom line: I love the testarosa for red points, bouldering and precision footwork at any angle, the solution for heel/toe hooking, pulling and heel protection, the team for sensativity in steep climbing, and I might like the dragon if I had a wide foot.
By: Kurt Zogorski
July 4, 2009
Follow the description, these shoes are for intense bouldering and not for hanging around the crags. They are one hell-of-a painful shoe but the edging power is phenomenal. I can stand on something about 3 mm wide and relax. If you want to instantly jump up a grade, get these. However dont be fooled and think its all in the shoe, I would not recommend for a beginner.
By: Takashi
July 20, 2009
The Testarossas are an extremely aggressive shoe. I sized them the same as I size all other aggressive La Sportiva Shoes, 39.5. In the beginning they were extremely tight and definitely were a lot less comfortable to break in than the Miura VS, but the fact is that they're engineered to stretch in certain spots of the shoe. I recommend for people to get the same size as they would in the Katanas or Miuras, but to expect a bit of pain while breaking in.
Once they're broken in, though, it makes for an incredible shoe. It breaks in to fit the foot very well, and leaves no dead space in the heel or the toe box. The laces let you really fine-tune the fit as well. The most aggressive and best performing shoe, in my opinion. Worth the crazy price.
By: Andy Chasteen
November 21, 2008
Great for steep, hard routes. Not a comfy all day shoe, obviously. Also, I would not get these shoes unless you are a solid 5.12-13 climber.
But a genius pair of shoes that will take your steep climbing to the next level. |
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发表于 2010-8-18 19:10
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发表于 2010-8-19 11:52
