Mount Edgar的消息

裂缝

三名攀登者错过6月3号回程飞机。自5.20离开大本营后失去联络。6月4四川登协派人去了。

http://www.adventurefilm.org/blogs/adventure_blog.aspx

wei

希望只是晚出山
去年底听过Micah的Talk，挺不错一个小伙子，能力没得说，特别风趣幽默。

w2

前天就知道消息了，没证实所以没贴出来。
micah dash是那个dash吗？

wei

wei

请问Mount Edgar在中国叫什么名字？
在转一篇Pete Mortimer在5号发的公开信 http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=874873

Below is a letter from Peter Mortimer and Sender Films


Dear friends,

As you all know by now, Jonny Copp, Micah Dash and Wade Johnson are missing on Mt Edgar in China and we are working on a multi-pronged search and rescue operation. The support for this operation has been unbelievable, and I can’t thank those of you enough who have contributed by offering connections, resources, emotional support and, most importantly, financial support.

These three guys have given so much to the climbing community in so many ways: their dedication to pushing the barriers of the sport on rock and in alpine terrain; their extensive community outreach through slide presentations and film festivals; their work with clothing and gear companies in designing and promoting cutting-edge equipment; and their dedication to capturing the most inspiring photos and footage from the most extreme places on earth.

Their lives have been dedicated to one thing: a celebration of climbing. And when you give as much to the climbing community as they have, I now see that the community gives back. In spades.

I wanted to share with you a few small examples of gestures performed in the last day alone:

• At midnight last night, a notoriously impoverished local climber – and good friend of the team – showed up at search headquarters, threw his passport on the table and said that for the first time in his life he has two thousand dollars to his name, and he wants to spend it on a flight to Chengdu to be one of the first Americans on the ground to help out with the search.

• This morning at 9 AM, a guiding client of Micah’s wired $25,000 to search headquarters to make sure the search did not slow down due to a financial bog-down.

• Companies who compete with the sponsors of these athletes are paying for their own athletes with Chinese visas to get to get to China as quickly as possible.

• People have offered up the 65,000 frequent flyer miles needed on United to get to China.

• Senators have pressured the Chinese embassy to expedite visas for American search volunteers.

The list goes on.

This is an expensive operation that will cost well into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. But there is every reason to believe that these guys are alive and trapped only a few hours from base camp. While there is hope, there is life. We need to do all we can to get people on the ground quickly, to get a helicopter in the air, and to keep communication flowing.

If these guys ever gave anything to your life, or ever inspired you in any way, now would be the time to give them something back.

As climbers, we are one big family and it is amazing to see how we look out for each other.

TO DONATE PLEASE GO TO: http://www.adventurefilm.org/blogs/adventure_blog.aspx

Kindest regards,
Pete Mortimer
Boulder, CO
June 5, 2009

mdm53

艾德加峰,不久前俄罗斯登山者前去攀登未果,爬了旁边一个6134峰.
最熟悉这一带的是成都的张氏兄弟,向导LENNY等人.
他们这次去爬是为NG拍摄一个first ascent系列的电影,Peter Mortimer的senderfilms是制作公司.

keenarrow

刚刚电话当地联络人毛德华13990486419，据他说今天白天已经找到一位，很遗憾。
目前大本营有5个人，都是中方人员。
明天中登协会有人进入大本营，希望小个子还活着，在成都和他们都见过，很遗憾。

阿悠

关注，地形太险恶了，

小毛驴0024

EDGAR是最早修建海螺沟磨西镇教堂的西方传教士（法国？）名字，1920-1934/35之间，老外科考队去那里比较多。1900年也有老外去。
这个名字就这么叫出来了。当地人怎么喊，还不知道。
它在燕子沟中部靠深往北走，燕子沟平行于海螺沟，是进入攀登贡嘎东北线路的峡谷，沟口是新兴镇：新兴乡政府所在地，现在其实和磨西镇半接壤了，中间距离3、4公里。新兴海拔2500米，所以落差很大。
这个山从燕子沟好接近，燕子沟北的南门关沟也可以（但更陡、野路）。从北、西都很难接近，北侧中间隔了6、7个5000多米的山峰/山梁直到雪门坎这边，西侧到日乌且这边隔了3座6000米山和1个日乌且到日乌且沟。

所以要爬一般主要从燕子沟进，爬其南壁（象JANNU的那种），或西南山脊、东山脊（很陡）。
这个山多年来还没几支队伍尝试过。今年才开始有。可以说是贡嘎最难的混合攀登型的山峰（金银山、贡嘎主峰等，是冰雪型山峰，主要因为天气变化、雪崩、陡冰造成危险），南壁大多为岩石线路，下面和顶峰处有冰雪。
大家看到的图就是从燕子沟中部往北走7公里左右到EDGAR脚下。
开始以为这个山难是难，但应该线路完整、多岩石，没有贡嘎那么危险（随机不可控）。

贡嘎地区最难以琢磨的就是天气，这是风险的最大因素。

bince

关注，在AAC听过 Micah Dash 的讲座，前不久看过的大片“The Sharp End”里也有他的镜头。很喜欢他的风格。

裂缝

The body of an American male was found last night in avalanche debris at 4,000 meters on Mount Edgar, Sichuan Province, China, by Chinese searchers.

http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=333&type=onlinenews

小毛驴0024

艾德加峰,不久前俄罗斯登山者前去攀登未果,爬了旁边一个6134峰.
最熟悉这一带的是成都的张氏兄弟,向导LENNY等人.
他们这次去爬是为NG拍摄一个first ascent系列的电影,Peter Mortimer的senderfilms是制作公司. ...
mdm53 发表于 2009-6-6 10:19

LENNY我听说过，但不认识和熟悉。张继跃兄弟人很好，是国内攀登、探险圈不多的清醒的从商者，他们多年来仅带老外徒步、漂流、攀登的队伍。
从不发中文的图片、文字信息透露横断山区那些“神秘”区域给国人。他们的观点认为，目前国内社会和民众，普遍不适合“开发”这些点的旅游。
SYNNOTT（就是美国那著名的大岩壁哥们，写TRANGO系列的，也去南美桌子山和GREG CHILD去爬的）、FRED BECKEY（84岁的老强人啊）等等若干这些强人来川，都找他们。中村宝也是。

这次他们叁去艾德嘉，也是他们带的团，也就是帮安排一路食宿、在协会注册等等。伍鹏、王茁以前去拜访过他们。

再说说其他话，象这样爬EDGAR，现在不知道老外要交多少钱给登协？---以前碰到一个英国曼彻斯特的工程师、一个爱丁堡的工人组成的2人队伍去爬贡嘎旁的一个6200多米的山，协会派一个人不懂登山的体校学投掷什么专业的女的（分配到协会的）陪伴，作联络官，攀登根本不懂。一天老外提供她吃住，外给协会一天450元费用，可她什么都做不了。一个女翻译，是老外出钱、协会外请的，这个钱当然还得老外自己掏。
所以，作一个正经自个来中国攀登的老外，要么得有钱，要么是公司、企业赞助，象这次的，要么就是攒多年钱、来一次就花光。
现在我不知道怎么样了？现在对国内攀登者，还略微开放了点，四川协会比较开明，提出个10块还是多少钱去注册就 可以去爬一些山（当然，有名的高山峰，就不成，尤其你要组3、4人或正式公开的团队，你得走程序掏钱），比如大姑娘山等等。这点比新疆登协、青海的要开明点。

中国攀登协会这种，在我眼里都是他妈的垃圾。并不代表里面的人，人有好人、高素质的人，象西藏那边就 有不少实在人。
国内地方的，也就是四川、青海、新疆、西藏四个，西藏协会的资源多、实力强。云南的资历浅。其他省就没听说有了。他们的上司，中登协也更是如此。

bince

Micah Dash, Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson

Micah Dash, Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson

jane

贡嘎地区的天气、地形和美国的山非常的不一样，我在2006年九月去那里徒步，遇到2位从西雅图来的高手，他们一再地警告我要小心，观察云层、小气候的特征得从都学起，在美国、加拿大攒的那些经验到了四川都不适用。那2位去过那里好几次，都说难弄,他们手头已经有好些资料，说是为了以后的攀登准备。我在山下住了三天，下雪之后整个山头都变样了，我猜想因为特殊的地理条件，那些6000多米的山的客观危险可能比贡嘎主峰更大。

看了一下三人的简历，没有提到此行之前任何一位去过中国的四川地区。年长的2位去过印巴。如果这三位是第一次去贡嘎地区就去try Mt. Edgar, eh, you know...

平错

天佑登山者

天空wk3368

新华网成都6月8日电(记者史春东) 8日上午，在出事地点现场指挥的四川省登山协会秘书长林黎向新华社记者透露，当日上午，中方人员在海拔4006米的雪地中找到第二具美国登山者遗体。

　　林黎介绍说，当天早晨8点20分，中国登山队副队长次洛、教练李富庆、省登山协会教练李宗利等从大本营出发，上山搜救，两个小时以后发现了这具遗体。

　　林黎说，专家们认为“他们的失踪、遇难很可能是一次雪崩导致的”。他说，当地人介绍说，贡嘎山今年登山季节天气特别不好，进入5月之后大雪、雾天、雨天交替出现，这样的天气容易出现雪崩。

　　在现场的专家分析说，6日找到的第一具遗体与8日找到的第二具遗体之间距离仅300米左右，很可能是他们在一起时，被雪崩打下来而遇难。

　　林黎说：“第三位失踪者生还的可能性已经很小，但搜救各方仍在努力寻找。”

　　据了解，此行美国登山队员共有4人，两名是登山队员，两名是摄影者，其中一位摄影者中途下山回国。

　　5月1日，美国爱德加登山队经批准进入贡嘎山海螺沟地区的燕子沟内，准备攀登海拔6600多米的大雪山脉爱德加峰，计划5月1日到28日进行登山活动。他们预订的回程机票时间是6月4日，但在5月28日这三位登山者没有按计划回到营地。6月3日四川登山协会收到失踪报告，立即组织救援工作。

小毛驴0024

这个山的基部有不少雪沟槽。到中间部分略好点，是大岩壁。顶部类似四姑娘幺妹，又是冰雪蘑菇。冰雪的状况就不稳定了。出事后，张继跃等也进燕子沟了。贡嘎地区气候比较稳定是每年10月到第2年3月，当然小气候也得看具体那几天周期。至少5、6、7、8这几个月是雨季，好天气概率低。现在上了4500以上下的都是雪了。
Micah Dash和Jonny Copp，太可惜了。

mh

Jane说的恐怕在点子上。Alex Lowe也是死在他没有经验的高山雪崩。还有，遇难几位可能并不很在行雪上攀登，我注意到他们照片都主要是岩石和攀冰瀑布。当今是攀岩水平好的人数比攀冰水平好的多3倍，攀冰水平好的比攀登雪水平的多5倍。攀登雪要求走得快*而且*很保险（因为保护都很差）。举个例子：你有两个选择：1）55度雪坡，横切，雪下没冰没石头，保护点在30米开外，脚下越来越陡，往下20米外就看不见坡了，是几百米空气。2）爬上一个有薄冰的光板，在烂石头和2厘米薄的冰上站在冰爪前尖横移20米。现在多数人会选择2。

jane

1980年十月，Rick Ridgeway, Yvon Chouinard, Kim Schmitz, 和Jonathan Wright在Minya Kongka山系遇到雪崩，这是个很强的队伍，Ridgeway 在75年上过k2, 前三人命大，Wright当场就折了，就地掩埋。十九年后他闺女由Ridgeway陪同去看他。有书为记。

那次雪崩对Chouinard的触动也很大，改变了他的人生观。他说：

"I'd been in a lot of close calls," he told me. "And afterwards there was always this incredible elation to being alive. After the avalanche there was none of that; in fact, I went into an incredible depression. But when I came out of it I had lost all fear of dying. And it's helped me to cope with my feeling that mankind as a species has ended its days. That thought used to really get me down. Now I think, hey, we're all gonna die. Maybe all at once, and so be it. We're an incredibly damaging species, and we're pulling all these other beautiful species down with us, and maybe we ought to just get out of here. You do what you can. Then--even if you're burning gasoline to get there--you just have to say fuck it, let's go surfing." 大概译文：我以前每次侥幸脱离险境后总是欣喜不已，但是那次雪崩后我却没有觉得兴奋，反而沉眠于忧郁中久久不能自拔，恢复之后我倒失去对死亡的恐惧，人必有一死，以前这个念头让我提不起精神，自那以后我想人总是要死的，可能就是下一刻，就这么的了吧。人类是破坏性极强的物种，我们活着，把许多美丽的物种顺带着一起灭了，也许我们应该都豁出去：你尽力做你能够做到的。完了，即使你得耗尽汽油赶到那里，你对自己说，靠，咱们去冲浪。

引自：http://outside1.away.com/outside/magazine/0197/9701fenot.html

mdm53

<Below Another Sky>,很好的一本书,2007年在德国见到Rick的时候,详细的聊过那次登山.Yvon Chouinard在那次以后彻底地斩断了攀登高海拔雪山的念头,Kim Schmitz后来又陆续尝试了幺妹和阿尼玛卿等山峰.

vole1st

Jane说得对，经验！5月底四川的岩石山峰上挂的雪夹着石头都在往下崩，06年5月底老马和Jon爬完大黄峰之后本想一鼓作气拿下玉兔，结果到了玉兔山下看了看转头就走。邛崃山区还比大雪山山区降水少多了，气候稳定得多。

Jon打电话说，他们怎么会这个季节跑到四川来登山啊。

大家都不愿意看到出事，出了事应该分析总结一下教训，任何一个事情的发生内因才是最主要的，作为一个自由攀登者来说首先应该的是自己对自己负责，别命苦都去怪政府，点背全都怨社会，没用。

Ps：06年那两个aai的向导在10月初带了两个60多岁的客人从5000米左右的营地一天登顶了勒多迈因，08年10月又带客人攀登勒多迈因，不过没成功。

bince

说的对，我们应该从这些事故中总结教训，但这些教训不仅仅是去哪里爬，什么时间爬，怎么爬，也包括和谁一起爬，为了什么爬。

很明显，有些攀登者因为这些方面的经验不足付出了惨痛的代价。我们都是成年人，明白自己需要学习的经验和教训，也明白应该承担的责任和后果。

在某些个案中我学习到的决不是“怪”和“怨”，而是愤怒和憎恨，但这似乎不是这个论坛所能承载的了....

mdm53

说的都不错,自从我开始准备做一个登山编辑,我发现周围的朋友们以每年几人的速度再离去,有时我很恐惧.《Where the Mountain Casts Its Shadow》里的一句说得好——当登山者命殒山际，所留给他们亲友的惟有悲痛。人们总说：他死得其所。其实从那一刻起，他们的亲友：妻子、丈夫、子女、双亲及挚友们的苦难才真正开始。
即便以为已经接受了事实，以为生活已经回到轨道，然而，潜意识却告诉你不然。当你偶然梦见那些朋友归来，这种忧伤的感觉像不曾结束的剧情，像一个盘旋而上的故事，起初紧紧束着看不到出口，如今只能望到模糊的地平线。有些旧伤永远不会痊愈。

w2

22# bince
摄影师的家人很平静：
“Some say that the loss of a child is the worst thing that can happen to parents.  But Wade’s death was not the worst thing that could happen.  The worst thing would have been if he died because of anger or hurt.  He died as all should live – with joy, purpose and meaning. ”
是人家觉悟高？不是，是因为他们知道自己的儿子很享受自己的生活，而且快乐。

wei

Wade Johnson的父母写得实在是很感人。
转一个Cedar Wright纪念Micah的帖子

I first met Micah about eight years ago when he joined the Yosemite Rescue Team. Micah was a bad-ass wall climber but at the time had a lot to learn about free climbing the valley’s burly cracks. I remember stumbling around a corner one day at Arch Rock just in time to watch him take a giant whipper on a 10a-plus fingers to offwidth crack called Midterm! As a seasoned crusty Yosemite veteran I hazed him with the appropriate amount of teasing and slander. To my surprise and delight, three years later Micah was cranking 5.12 cracks onsite and redpointing 5.13 quickly. Soon the tables had turned, “Remember Midterm” he yelled down to me one day from the top of a heinous Indian Creek finger crack that he had just on-sited, and which I had whipped off of earlier that day, “this feels way easier than midterm,” he said with a grin. Micah continued to progress at a blistering pace and was soon sending the gnar in the mountains and living the dream of a sponsored bad ass! Through Micah I met Johnny Copp who became Micah’s partner in the mountains and friend for life. Johnny struck me as the archetype of everything an alpinist should be, big, burly, seemingly undaunted by the sort of situations that make most men pee their pants. He wore one of those infectious smiles that beamed positive energy, and the two of them together were a super strong if not somewhat comedic super alpinism team of the small and big. Micah the little neurotic jewish ball of muscle, and Johnny the "macho man randy savage" hulk of a man with his classic mountain man chin mullet...what a pair. Legendary! Micah was my brother he even spent a christmas with me and my parents, and the loss I’m feeling right now is impossible to put in words…and I really haven’t even registered the reality that Micah will probably not be walking through the door gnawing on a carrot like a hyperactive rabbit, showing his rippling abs and asking if he looks fat. Right now the world just seems cruel and unfair…I’m going to miss you brother…I love you monkey….Cedar.

玛米亚

他们很清楚选择这条路线所要面对的风险。而且之前上ABC侦查路线的时候已经比较了解那里的情况了。

可能是由于赞助的压力或者其他什么的，他们还是选择了在最后的时间里做一次冲击。

哀悼！