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发表于 2007-12-18 22:26
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Colin Haley
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/alpine/colin-haley-alpinism-hardware-part-two
"...Although at first a skeptic, I have come to believe that wrist leashes truly are a thing of the past and should not be used. This has nothing to do with style, but rather I think it is easier and more efficient to climb without wrist leashes. It is easier to shake out your forearms, faster to place protection, and often requires fewer tool placements. Dropping a tool is not an option on big routes, however, so it is best to use umbilical cords attached to your tools. In fact, you are much less likely to drop a tool using umbilicals than using wrist leashes. Umbilical cords are ideally elasticized so that they don’t hang so low and catch on gear, and should be made of material that won’t ice up really bad. Avoid any systems that require girth hitching your belay loop or tying knots to your tools. It is best for the umbilicals to attach to your belay loop using a biner so that you can quickly unclip them from your belay loop and clip them into the anchor at belays. It is best for the umbilicals to attach to your tools using mini biners so that you can quickly switch between having them clipped to the spike or the head of the tool (clip them to the head of the tool for low-angle terrain). Attaching a swivel to the harness-end of your umbilicals is a big help for reducing tangle when repeatedly switching tools from hand to hand. The most appropriate swivels, which are strong and light, can be found at commercial fishing supply stores." |
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