巴芬岛的新线路

自由的风

原文链接http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-baffin-aid-kiguti



The north face of Kiguti, Sam Ford Fjord, Baffin Island, showing the line of the Norwegian Route (VI A3+, ca. 900m, 23 pitches, Felde-Hetland-Lied-Nessa, 2007). The original route on the wall, Nirvana (VI 5.9/5.10 A3+, ca. 900m, Ascaro-Ballester-Chaverri, 1995) takes a line up the nose to the right. [Photo] Lars Nessa


During the first ascent of the Norwegian Route (VI A3+, ca. 900m, 23 pitches, Felde-Hetland-Lied-Nessa, 2007) on the north face of Kiguti, Baffin Island [Photo] Lars Nessa

自由的风

史普顿尖峰的新线路原文链接http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-shipton-vidal-russians


The unclimbed north face of Shipton Spire (5885m) in the Uli Biaho Group of Pakistan's Karakoram. The big pillar on the left, ending at an obvious pointed top with a notch beyond, is the northeast pillar forming the far right side of the southeast face. The front face of the pillar is taken by the Slovak route, Prisoners of the Shipton (5.11d A3, 900m to the notch, Koller-Linek-Podrabradsky, 2005). Koller and Linek followed Ship of Fools to within 80 meters of the summit at WI 5+. The new Spanish route (A4+, 870m of climbing, Vidal, 2007) climbs close to the right edge of the pillar to reach the notch. In 2005 Gabo Cmarik and Dodo Kopold hoped to climb into the large hanging couloir on the north face from the rock rib on the right. Unfortunately, they were forced to retreat before reaching it, when Cmarik became ill with sunstroke. [Photo] Dodo Kopold
一条是西班牙女人Aid Solo的，A4+哦 猛将啊

自由的风

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-american-first-choktoi


No place for sleep walking: Camp II on the north ridge of Latok I (7145m). This prize, sometimes referred to as the "Walker Spur of the Karakoram," defeated Doug Chabot, Mark Richey and Steve Swenson at 5900m. However, the three were successful in making the first ascent of Suma Brakk (aka Choktoi or Choktoi I, 6166m) while acclimatizing for Latok I. [Photo] Mark Richey

拉托克 C2，这样的营地倒是很少见！


The triple summited Suma Brakk (aka Choktoi or Choktoi I, 6166m) rises above the lower Choktoi glacier and was climbed for the first time by Doug Chabot, Mark Richey and Steve Swenson in a two and a half day alpine style ascent. [Photo] Mark Richey

自由的风

小河

看得心痒，考虑计划去布达拉或者野人峰搞一搞。

自由的风

先婆缪？