nose的solo新记录：11小时41分

裂缝

由Hans Florine创造，他是1991年速度冠军，多项大岩壁速度攀登记录创造者，《speed climbing》的作者。hans曾在2002年和yuji搭档用了2小时48分完成这条经典路线。

他用改造过的grigri作保护。还带了2只trango新款max cam。max cam现在已经climbing杂志的编辑推荐了，估计以后会大受欢迎的。

攀登报告：
http://hansflorine.com/NIAHD/

花絮：超越韩国队时，帮他们把挂了4pitches的路绳到6号营地，并从6号营地取了2升水送到5号营地给韩国人。当时他们4个人只剩1升水了。

裂缝

汉诺哥和汉斯哥打算破nose速攀记录, 最终慢了45秒.
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-110111

Today was the speed attempt by Hans Florine and Alex Honnold.  Hans arrived around 9am but it was not until after 11 that they got on the route.  By then it was already warm in the bright sunlight.  Hondo shed his shirt immediately.  They climbed rapidly and smoothly to the Boot, with Hans leading the first half of the climb.  Above there Hondo took the lead.
They were always flirting with the time line that would get the record and by the time the last pitch was reached they were 7 minutes from the record.  Hondo powered up the bolts without aiders, just pulling on quick draws and biners.  He was soon at the top.  Hans had 4 minutes from the start of the pitch to get the record.  Hans says he is faster climbing that pitch than jugging, so he was soon racing up the 10b crack to the start of the bolts.  He didn’t hit those perfectly and had just a smidge of delay, a few seconds at most, with his aid slings on the bolts.  I had a rough idea of the time line to about one minute accuracy.    It was nail biting time for all the spectators below.  
It was going to be really close… really close.  Soon, Hans disappeared over the top heading for the tree.  They were to come to the lip of the top, and wave, if they got the record.  We waited … and waited…and waited… finally the word came down… they missed the record by a mere 45 seconds in recording the third fastest time ever done.  Amazing really, when you consider they have only climbed the route 3 times together.  I figured they should do at least 4 or 5 to really get it dialed.  Anyway, it was a grand day to watch one of the greatest climbing spectacles on the planet and we were all rewarded by a memorable climb.

Alex Honnold and Hans Florine about to start the climb.