CASTLE ROCKS

bince

CASTLE ROCKS 是美国中部一个著名的花岗岩岩场，由于年代久远，已经烂熟，现在的管理者正在试图恢复和规范，但看起来就有点过于严格和繁琐了（比如新开线必须搞申报和听证，噢爸妈！很政府 ）。

以下关于路线开发的细节部分还是有点意思。（摘自《岩石城管理手册》原文链接在这里，需翻墙）

The following standards for fixed anchor hardware for consistency, safety, and resource protection are hereby enacted by the agencies:

• Stainless steel hardware (hangers and bolts)
• Minimum of 3/8-inch bolt diameter
• Minimum of 2¼-inch bolt length (3 ½-inch is preferred)
• Use commercially produced hangers
• All hangers must be commercially painted
• All hangers must be camouflaged
• Rocks shall not be grid-bolted（Grid-bolting means bolting routes within 15 feet either side of an existing route）
• Top anchors should not be shared on sport routes
• Top anchors shall consist of two separate hangers bolted to the rock with a minimum 3/8” X 3½ ” stainless steel bolts. Attached to these shall be minimum 3/8” threaded screw links, with minimum 3/8” chains attached. The chain length shall be as short as possible without compromising safety. All components shall be painted to closely match the surrounding stone
• Top anchor bolts shall be spaced no closer than 5 inches apart
• Top anchors should not be set back from the edge if possible
• A minimum lateral distance of 15 feet shall be maintained between all established climbing routes
• Bolting is not permitted next to cracks that will readily accept removable protection.
• Fixed anchor spacing shall be consistent and reasonable
• Fixed anchors are not permitted for routes under 30’ feet
• Dark-colored webbing (black preferred) shall be used only when necessary to descend safely from traditional routes
• Webbing is subject to removal by agency representatives, and will not be considered a permanent or long-term fixed anchor
• No more than 10 people shall congregate in one staging area except for areas specifically designated for groups.

jane

因为是国家公园，所以要照顾到所有使用者的利益，徒步观光的不希望看到崖壁上闪亮的不锈钢瓜片和鲜艳的扁带，如果人群扎堆则影响了公园的宁静。有的地方为了美观，甚至反对使用白粉。