Alexander Ruchkin 和Mikhail Mikhailov 获得俄罗斯2009金冰镐奖

华仔

Alexander Ruchkin 和Mikhail Mikhailov 获得俄罗斯2009金冰镐奖.两个人凭借的是今年在中国贡嘎地区的6314峰的攀登.他们本来计划是爬爱德嘉峰的,但因为天气的原因,改爬了边上的一座6314M的未登峰.



两个人都是俄罗斯大岩壁计划的主力成员,凭借贾奴峰（Jannu）北壁垂直路线首攀获得过05年的金冰镐奖.


这是他们攀爬的该线路的记录.整个线路难度为6B,俄罗斯的登山难度评级分为两部分,一部分是技术难度,一部分是对整个线路难度的评级.

关于技术难度:

The technical grades are the following:

I (easy) - broad scree or snow ridges, broken rock ridges or snow/ice slopes at angles of up to 30°. Basic alpine equipment only.
II (simple) - snow and ice sections at an angle of up to 30° and rocks requiring moderate climbing skills. Basic alpine equipment only.
III (moderately difficult) - snow and ice sections at an angle of 35°-45°. Steep rock features with good and numerous holds, not requiring artificial aids - descent of such passages being done by free climbing or abseiling. Basic alpine equipment only, plus normal rock climbing gear.
IV (difficult) - with steep rock sections suitable for free climbing. Snow and ice slopes up to an angle of 55°. Climbing with a rucksack is still possible but arduous. Descent of difficulties is usually by abseil. Full alpine and rock equipment required.
V (very difficult) - steep rock with a limited number of holds often needing artificial aids. Snow and ice slopes of more than 50° and difficult corniced ridges. Full alpine and rock equipment required.
VI (exceptionally difficult) - vertical and overhanging rocks or with few holds, cracks, stances etc. requiring mainly aid climbing. Hard mixed climbing or steep ice pitches. Maximum alpine ability required.
关于整个线路难度的描述可以看我写的博文,到底有多难?(一) .那里有和法国和国际登山联合会难度等级的对照.

今年俄罗斯金冰镐奖入围的攀登有8个,今年俄国人四人组四姑娘幺妹峰北壁直上也入围了.我曾经介绍过的Gleb Sokolov 托木尔峰北壁新线路也有入围,关于这次攀登请看http://climbhua.blog.sohu.com/137434818.html

另外更多入围的攀登请看http://www.russianclimb.com/piolet_dor_russia_2009.html



图片来自http://www.risk.ru/users/robinsya/9019/