Baihe: new route & new project

天空wk3368 · 发表于 2009-10-20 10:10

Please find the picture of Xiao Gui. I have FFA a new trad route
"_Dragon Wing_" (yellow line), 5.11a, anchor: 2 bolts. The blue line is
my new project "_Enter The Dragon_". Is it possible to lend me the
drilling machine and I would buy 8 bolts for this route next time? I
think this route is 5.12d or 13a.

德国人Torsten 上周末在小怪，传统完成了图中的黄线（有2顶anchor） 5.11a，请问他是FFA嘛？如果是的话，那么线路名称就是“Dragon Wing”
蓝线是他计划中的运动攀路线“Enter The Dragon”，难度大概是5.12d 或者5.13a

飞马 · 发表于 2009-10-20 12:53

就象阳朔一样，白河如果有更多高水平的 climber 来攀爬，就能产生更多高水平的线路。

曼曼起舞 · 发表于 2009-10-20 18:09

图中黄线的dragon wing的下面好像没有裂缝放塞子？

mh · 发表于 2009-10-20 19:43

这不是不允许，但定级中可能应该有个"5.11a PG" (或"5.11a R" 如果底下有凶石头)之类的严重程度标度。可惜YDS里没有标准的严重程度等级，各地定自己的。wikipedia已经把Gunks的等级称作YDS的严重等级了，所以大概应该算是标准了：
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gra ... S_protection_rating

* G – Good, solid protection ground up
* PG – Pretty good, few sections of poor or non-existent placements
* PG13 – OK protection, falls may be long but will probably not cause serious injury.
* R – Runout, some protection placements may be very far apart (possibility of broken bones, even when properly protected)
* X – No protection, extremely dangerous (possibility of death, even when properly protected)

小河 · 发表于 2009-10-21 01:19

本帖最后由小河于 2009-10-21 09:57 编辑

The blue one belong to 裂缝 and me.We set the top anchor 4 years ago.
I do agree that the right one will finish it.

天空wk3368 · 发表于 2009-10-21 01:38

the yellow one,have you ever FFA ed or not?
is Torsten the FFA?

小河 · 发表于 2009-10-21 17:57

Not yet

曼曼起舞 · 发表于 2009-10-22 14:14

Torsten 订 11A PG

以下是Torsten所言：
The route has some pretty good protections, but few at the beginning. If
you fall you might end up rolling down in the river

. At the top
crack there is no problem for protection.
So, I would use PG. In Europe we also use the severity scale E1 to E11.
I would rate it E2-3.

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