Craig Luebben died yesterday, RIP.

wei

继John Bachar之后，中国攀岩的老朋友Craig Luebben也去了
http://mountainproject.com/v/col ... _cascades/106512731

More accident details in this Seattle Times article by Susan Gilmore:
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com ... _webclimber10m.html
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Monday, August 10, 2009 - Page updated at 03:00 p.m.
Colorado mountain climber Craig Luebben killed in North Cascades

By Susan Gilmore
Seattle Times staff reporter
A well-known Colorado mountain climber was killed and his partner was injured Sunday after they were hit by falling ice in North Cascades National Park.

The climber who was killed, Craig Luebben, and Willie Benegas were training for an American Mountain Guide exam at the time of the accident, said Mark Gunlogson, with Seattle's Mountain Madness. Benegas worked for Mountain Madness.

The accident happened early Sunday morning on Mount Torment in the North Cascades, near Marblemount.

Benegas was briefly hospitalized.

According to Gunlogson, the accident occurred when the glacier pulled away from a rock, possibly because of the recent warm weather, and chunks of ice fell on them. Luebben fell into an ice moat, like a crevasse. Benegas said there was no warning, according to Gunlogson.

"It's one of those things, a hazard climbers confront in the North Cascades," said Gunlogson. "These were two incredibly experienced climbers. Their timing didn't work out for them."

Kelly Bush, the district ranger with North Cascades National Park search and rescue, said the two climbers had crossed the upper part of the Taboo Glacier, with Luebben leading. A chunk of ice fell beneath him and he fell about 40 feet into the moat, hanging from his rope and suffering massive trauma.

Luebben was still alive when Benegas was able to climb down to him, move him to a ledge and call 911 for rescue. But Luebben died before he could be rescued, said Bush, adding that neither climber did anything wrong in their ascent. "This kind of thing is inherent in mountaineering," she said. "These men were highly skilled, on top of their game. Some of the elite of mountain climbing."

Luebben lived in Colorado and was a well-known climber, writer, photographer and teacher, said Simon Fryer, with Colorado Mountain School.

According to his Web site, Luebben climbed all over the world and made first ascents on rocks in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, West Virginia, Canada, Mexico, Cuba, Puerto Rico and other climbing locations. He also wrote seven books on climbing.

"Craig was an incredible, generous individual with a huge heart," said Fryer. "He was a teacher at heart. He always went way out of his way to help people. Craig did it all. Anything in the mountains he loved."

Susan Gilmore: 206-464-2054 or sgilmore@seattletimes.com

Copyright © The Seattle Times Company
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and from the amga website
http://amga.com/about/news.php

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On the 9th the pair were attempting to climb the Torment and Forbidden Traverse, starting the traverse on the SE Face of Torrent via the Taboo Glacier. At the bergshrund, with Craig leading and Willie belaying, Craig attempted to bypass the remnant ice hanging above the bergshrund by ascending rock on the right, and then traversing left on to the ice for the exit moves. According to Wille, at approximately 0630 as Craig transitioned from the rock to the ice, a block of ice described as being the size of a car calved off taking Craig with it, resulting in a 30 foot fall. While not struck by the initial block, Craig was pelted by debris as he hung from his rope. Willie managed to get Craig to his belay stance in the bergshrund, stabilize and treat his injuries, and contact rescue personnel. Despite Willie’s heroic efforts and a swift response from NCNP SAR personnel, Craig succumbed to his injuries.

Willie suffered minor injuries to his leg and is expected to make a full recovery.

天空wk3368

天妒英才

gump

Tragic year...

mdm53

Riccardo Cassin - died at age 100
Italian legend Riccardo Cassin died near Lecco on Thursday, August 6. Part of Ragni di Lecco (the Lecco Spiders), Cassin made many legendary climbs in the Dolomites and around the world, fought in WWII and set up shop with his own climbing gear. In 1961 at age 52, Riccardo became the first to summit Denali via the Cassin Ridge, and he continued to climb well into his 80s.

w2

3# gump
so sad^^^^,
know him in yangshuo
climbing with him last year in ICM
learned many skills for off-width from him
and drinking with him and his daughter in golden
we invited him to come back china this year^^^^
shit happens a lot this year, wanna help to his familly.

藏蓝

想起02年北京的那次攀冰课程，他说在他的climber朋友中，已经有22个人死了。
他当年教的大岩壁救援的绳索操作，很有用，只是当年没有学太会。
唉……

mh

哀悼Craig
敬仰Cassin

andes

哀悼

bince

http://www.craigluebben.com/

Boulder, Colorado - On Sunday, August 9, 2009, AMGA Instructor Pool member, Certified Rock Guide and former member of the AMGA Board of Directors, Craig Luebben died of injuries sustained while climbing in North Cascades National Park. Craig and Willie Benegas were climbing and training together for an upcoming AMGA Alpine Exam at the time of the incident. On the 9th the pair were attempting to climb the Torment and Forbidden Traverse, starting the traverse on the SE Face of Torrent via the Taboo Glacier. At the bergshrund, with Craig leading and Willie belaying, Craig attempted to bypass the remnant ice hanging above the bergshrund by ascending rock on the right, and then traversing left on to the ice for the exit moves. According to Wille, at approximately 0630 as Craig transitioned from the rock to the ice, a block of ice described as being the size of a car calved off taking Craig with it and, resulting in a 30 foot fall. While not struck by the initial block, Craig was pelted by debris as he hung from his rope. Willie managed to get Craig to his belay stance in the bergshrund, stabilize and treat his injuries, and contact rescue personnel. Despite Willie's heroic efforts and a swift response from NCNP SAR personnel, Craig succumbed to his injuries.

Willie suffered minor injuries to his leg and is expected to make a full recovery.

Our deepest condolences and sympathy go out to Craig's wife Silvia, his daughter Giulia, and his many friends around the world. Craig's passing is a tremendous loss to the AMGA community and the climbing world. If you would like to send your thoughts and prayers along to the family please send them to betsy@amga.com or PO BOX 1739, Boulder, CO 80306 and we will make sure to pass them along.

andes

2001年3月3日， Craig Luebben 在北京，云蒙峡

藏蓝

哦，那是01年啊

andes

是啊，那时候，酒醒天涯梦六朝啊

藏蓝

我给记成02年了。