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关于“爬trad时你脑袋里想什么”的讨论,某哥们的回帖:
from rc.com by lishe
I am a noob, but here is my trad lead algorithm:
Check knots, belay;
Issue commands;
Find first placement off belay to avoid factor 2 fall;
Go;
while(!dead() && !done()) {
Climb();
Evaluate();
Breath();
}
boolean done() {
if (at belay ledge) return true;
if (at top) return true;
return false;
}
boolean dead() {
if( uncounscious || !breathing) return true;
return false;
}
Climb() {
Find best holds. Move each limb accordingly.
}
EvaluateSituation() {
if(oh shit?) print "Falling!";
else if(over my head?) print "Oh Shit!, off route"; downclimb;
else if(time to place gear? && goodplacements exist?) { place gear; }
else { findnextrestspot(); }
}
Breath{
take breath; hum a tune if scared;
}
findnextrestspot() {
Look for good holds; time to place gear should be at that spot;
} |
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