Sport or adventure
运动还是冒险？
What happened? I remember the runout above the #4 RP placement on "Slow Children" (an Index classic I did in 1983) like it was yesterday. Today's routes can't make that kind of memory. Now I start at the left edge of the crag and work my way right looking for a pump because there's no mental challenge to be had. It was not the pump that attracted me to climbing. I began climbing to escape from the rehearsal and certainty of organized sport. Climbing was cool because I never knew what I'd have to do. I trained my skills as best I could then went to the crag to see exactly what I had. I wasn't sure I'd correctly estimated my ability or the rack or the weather until I was on top. I love the mountains because of what they demand of me, often my best.
怎么回事？我想起了“Slow Children”#4位置时的那次没有保护，不得不一口气爬到底的感觉（1983年我干的那些事），仿佛就在昨天。今天的路线不会让那一幕重演了。现在我开始从裂缝的左侧向右侧爬，是因为胳膊发胀没劲儿，但是已经没有意志上的挑战了。不是那种胳膊发胀的感觉引起我攀登的欲望的。我开始攀登主要是想躲开那些编排好的运动的循规蹈矩和一成不变。攀登的确很“酷”，因为我永远也不知道下一步我会怎样做。我拼尽全力训练攀登技能，然后到峭壁上去验证一下那到底是怎样的。除非我到了山顶，否则我就不能确定我是否正确地估计了我的体力、山体情况或是天气。我爱山，是因为它要求我的正是我最能拿出的最好的。
Sport climbing traded away risk and resourcefulness for greater gymnastic difficulty and a good pump. It took me back to where I started: with each rehearsal I inched closer to a predictable outcome. Knowing all the moves on a route made it simpler to perfect them and to gain the strength required. It just took repetition, which eliminated uncertainty. And without that I see little difference between the hundred-yard dash and any 12a at any sport crag anywhere. The bolt homogenized many types of climbing experience into one type of climbing experience.
竞技攀登通过更多的训练远离了风险，并不需要太多的头脑，也没有太激动人心的地方。这把我带回到最开始的地方：每一次的训练都让我进一步接近完美。了解一条路线上所有的点的位置可以使攀爬每一点时动作更漂亮，更容易知道每次该用多大的力。那只要一遍一遍地重复，把不能的变成能的。上百码的裂缝和任何一条12a的路线没有什么不同。均匀分布的挂片让多种多样的攀登都变成了同一种攀登体验。
Instead of sport climbing I go bouldering. It's pure, and basically impossible to cheat. Bolts can't be used to manipulate the experience. Sure, I sometimes take a thicker crash pad but I still have to take the fall. For me, the cerebrally intense highball problem replaced the runout, which the drill destroyed a decade ago. Bouldering is simple. The dangerous problems are bracing enough to give me lasting memories, or nightmares.
当我抱石时，感觉和竞技攀登完全不同。它更纯粹，根本不可能有欺骗。膨胀栓和挂片不能取代处理问题的经验。是的，我用了更厚的缓冲垫，可是我还是会坠落。对我来说，这些令人紧张刺激的活动让我远离了退缩，不再象十年前那样。抱石是简单的运动。但是这些危险的路线是那么的令人心动，给我带来永久的回忆，尽管那也可能是恶梦。
Ice climbing is similarly pure. I hike to the base of a waterfall. It is in or out of condition. I am in or out condition. I choose whether I can deal with the riddle that nature presents or not. There's no way to frig it. On a deeper level, ice climbing helped me recover something I thought was gone forever. When I began climbing the rope symbolized trust. Sport climbing turned the rope into 60 meters of vague social contract. Ice and alpine routes reminded me why the rope is a sacred climbing icon; it signifies the unbreakable bond between partners. I like it that way, which is why I can't hook up with someone I don't know at the crag. I don't treat climbing as sport.
攀冰也是同样纯粹的运动。需要长途跋涉才能来到冰瀑的底端。冰瀑也许能攀，也许不。也许我状态正佳，也许不。也许我能对付这个自然界的馈赠，也许不。只是根本不可能去亵渎它。更进一步说，攀冰帮我克服了那些我以为永远不能克服的东西。当我开始攀登时，绳子象征了信任。竞技攀登把绳子变成了60米的模糊的社会约定。攀冰和阿尔卑斯式攀登让我认识到绳子是一种攀爬的神圣标志，它标志了同伴之间牢不可破的联系。我喜欢这样，那也可以解释为什么在裂缝当中我不会完全依赖我不熟悉的同伴。我不用对待竞技的方式来对待攀登。
For me, climbing is adventure, and sometimes spiritual. My ethics and my respect for the mountains prevent me from enjoying the "numerical success" that characterizes climbing as a sport. I might not make history or become famous but I am getting what I want from climbing.
对我来说，攀登就是冒险，有时也是种精神境界。我的道德规范和对山的崇敬让我不会热衷于把登山当成运动标榜的“数字的成功”。也许我不会创造历史，也不会出名，但是从攀登中我得到了我想得到的东西。
Are you?
你呢？
（豌豆2005年5月6日于家中） |
IP卡
狗仔卡
发表于 2005-5-1 07:29
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