裂缝:补充一点andes的《攀登词典》

freewind

补充一点andes的《攀登词典》

刚好看到这个网页：
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/glossary.html

顺手摘录一些《攀登词典》中没有而经常会遇到的。
以后有空会译成中文，并配点照片，可能更容易理解。
比如 figure of four，下面讲了一大段，但如果没见过，很难想像出来。这是Francois Legrand的拿手好戏，在97年xgame的录像里（rocktor。net里有），Lynn Hill有精彩解说，一看就明白了。要是在日坛见到大宝，你可以叫他表演一下。

而什么是DECKING OUT，让小河来解释再恰当不过，他会摸着屁股跟你描述从白河6号线（？，1号线右边的斜板路线）上脱落的经过：）



ABSEIL.
To descend a rope using a descender or maybe with just the rope round your body (a classic abseil). Potentially lethal; the cause of more deaths than actually climbing upwards. Often abbreviated to AB. (Americans call it "rapelling" and shorten it to "rap".) [Hil McMillan]

AID CLIMBING.
Climbing using gear for resting or making progress. Covers everything from a brief rest on the rope on an otherwise traditional1 ascent to bolt ladders and étriers.

BOULDERING.
Relatively low height climbing, often very technical, usually solo. Usually climbing is on boulders (hence the name), but the more technical starts of routes are often "bouldered" as well, without ropes or protection, except for a bouldering mat. [Lindsay Davies]

BOULDERING MAT.
A mattress sized foam block for protecting falls while bouldering (and sometimes climbing).

CHIMNEY.
A crack wide enough to fit your whole body into.


CRACK.
A split or fissure in the rock face. Horizontal cracks are known as breaks; wide cracks may be offwidths or chimneys. A very thin crack that will not easily take protection is known as a seam; it may take a piton.


CRAG.
Any large expanse of rock.

DECKING OUT.
Falling and hitting the ground, usually hurting oneself, through lack of protection. Not recommended. Also known as a Desmond (geddit?).


Dead Hang:
To hang from a handhold with arms straight so body weight is supported by the skeleton rather than arm muscles.


DEEP WATER SOLOING
A climb carried out on a cliff that is situated above the sea. Done without gear as thedecking outis reduced in sting by landing in the deep water.


DESCENDER.
A friction device used when abseiling, such as a figure eight or a Sticht plate.

DIHEDRAL.
American phrase for an open book formation such as Dinas Cromlech; known at home as a corner.


Downclimb:
To descend a mountain or a rock face without weighting a rope; often accomplished without protection, and hence potentially the most dangerous part of a climb.


DYNAMIC ROPE.
A rope that allows some stretch when loaded. This reduces the shock-loading to the system (and the climber), and therefore improves safety. As opposed to a static rope.


Edging:
A climbing technique in which the thin edges of the climbing shoes are used to stand on small footholds.


ETHICS.
The informal rules that govern how climbers climb and how they talk and write about their climbs. Rules of conservation preserve the natural environment of the rocks ("don't climb on Mississippi Buttress when the ring ouzels are nesting"); access to the rocks ("ask the military before climbing in firing ranges"); and the rocks themselves ("don't climb on sandstone in nailed boots"); the rule of honesty – always report your style of ascent – allows climbers to compare their abilities; and rules of style preserve the possibility of failure. Without the rules of style every climb could have a bolt every metre and every ascent could use aid when it got too hard. But then where would the challenge and interest be? To have challenge, you must have uncertainty, and that means denying yourself technical aids. Styles of ascent include aid climbing, yo-yoing, pinkpoint, redpoint, traditional1, flash, headpoint, onsight, and solo. See also cheating.


FIGURE OF FOUR.
Peculiar climbing move which you won't believe until you see or try it. Essential when you have a brilliant handhold but absolutely no footholds. With one hand on the hold, wrap the opposite leg over the holding wrist. With a good enough hold and enough flexibility, you can get the thigh over the wrist. From here it is possible to reach up to higher holds. Preferable to a dyno if the higher hold is not very good, as it keeps the body close to the wall. Most useful on vertical or overhanging routes. Increasingly used by competition ice climbers, who put their leg over their embedded ice axe.


FINGERBOARD
A large piece of wood with individual strips of wood attached. Used by experienced climbers to increase the strength in their fingers by doing pull ups and moves without the aid of their feet. Potentially very bad for finger tendons and ligaments if tried when not completely warmed up.


FLAG.
To stick a foot out sideways for balance, especially when stopping yourself from barn dooring.

GASTON.
Also known as the "lift-opener". Inelegant but sometimes necessary manoeuvre where the fingers of both hands are placed in a crack as if to pull it apart by brute strength. Very tiring; hard to stay balanced. Can be required in shallow cracks where there is no chance of jamming or laybacking for some reason. Named after French climber Gaston Rébuffat.


GEAR.
See protection.


GRADE.
How difficult it is to climb something. A complete discussion of grades is far beyond this article (see instead our articles on English grading and Bouldering grading). Grades and grading systems are a source of constant dispute, even more than bolts, despite the fact that all climbs fall into two categories: can do and can't do.


HARNESS.
Combination of waist loop and leg loops, with belay loop and gear loops that climbers wear when not soloing. Should be comfortable for hanging around at belays.


HELMET.
Useful device for preventing head injury and for protecting sandwiches during the walk-in.


HEEL HOOK.
The act of bringing one of your feet up to chest height and 'hooking' it onto a hold. Good for reaching otherwise out-of-reach holds with your free hand. Suppleness usually a help.


HOLD.
Any feature of the natural rockface which assists the climber's upward motion.


JAMMING.
The best forgotten art. The technique of inserting part (or all) of the body into a crack to make progress. Thin cracks take fingers, wider cracks take hands and fists, and feared offwidth cracks devour arms, shoulders, knees, feet and legs and spit them out covered with gritstone rash.


LEADER.
The person going up the route first; the one who solves the conundrum of "how do you get the rope up there then?". Is followed by the second.


Match:
To grasp a hold with both hands, or to place the feet side by side on the rock.

Mixed Climbing:
Ascending a route by a combination of methods, e.g. mixed free and aid climbing; also, ascending a route wherein both rock and ice, and sometimes snow, are encountered.

Open Book:
A dihedral, or right-angled inside corner.


ROCKOVER.
Complex but enormously satisfying move that requires pushing the bodyweight over one raised knee in order to reach up to a handhold that is otherwise out of reach. Quintessential routes requiring rockovers: Downhill Racer at Froggatt, Void at Tremadog.


ROOF.
The steepest kind of overhang.


ROPE.
The thing which separates you from decking out and a possible trip to the hospital or the next world. Will treat you as well as you treat it, except it won't send you flowers in hospital. Or to your funeral. Comes in two flavours, static and dynamic: you want a dynamic one if you're leading. (It's springy.) Also comes in two varieties, dry and, um, not dry: the dry one stays drier (in, say, winter climbing).


SEAM.
A very thin crack, one too small for any protection wider than a knife blade piton.


SIDEPULL.
A hold that points sideways; usually works best when used for some form of layback.


SPRAG.
See thumb sprag.


SPRING LOADED CAMMING DEVICE.
Friends were the first brand but there are many variations. An SLCD has four (in smaller versions, two or three) rounded cams which are forced apart by a spring. To place them you contract the spring, then release it, putting the cam faces into contact with the rock. It's impossible to believe they will work until you fall onto one, after which you use them relentlessly. However, SLCDs can exert huge sideways forces when fallen on: beware if you place one behind an expanding flake.


STATIC ROPE.
Compared to a dynamic rope, a static rope does not significantly stretch when loaded. Used for abseiling, hauling or toproping; disastrous for leading because all the impact is transferred to the falling climber.


STOPPER KNOT.
Or just "stopper"; a knot in the tail of a rope that prevents it from slipping through and keeps it out of the way. Used after tying the rope to your harness with a figure of eight, or on the your ropes before you abseil so you can't slip off the ends. Good stopper knots are the overhand and double overhand knots.


THREAD.
A hole in the rock, or behind a chockstone, which can be used for protection by threading a sling through it. Also: the sling threaded through the hole.