攀冰不是攀岩——先锋不坠
这是will gadd的一篇文章，标题是Ice Climbing is NOT rock climbing其中涉及的一部视频是来自网络的攀冰冲坠事故，will gadd对事故者提出激烈的批评。其中最重要的一条就是先锋不坠
视频转移过来
http://static.video.qq.com/TPout.swf?vid=q0184vz1f68&auto=0
http://static.video.qq.com/TPout.swf?vid=q0184vz1f68&auto=0
原文复制如下
Will Gadd note after the below was posted: Please keep the comments somewhat civil and constructive. There is a lot of good information (harness, gi gi) getting added, let’s focus–as most people are–on what can be done differently rather than attacking either the climbers or the video effort. Just for reference, I’ve personally made a lot of the errors in the video, we all have, the idea is to learn and do better, thanks.
And the two screen capture pictures are of the BD Bod harness that’s not doubled back (you can tell because you can see the two silver pieces, shouldn’t be able to see ‘em both!) and the Kong Gi Gi, which is getting used totally inappropriately. That the harness and the belay both held is pretty amazing to me, I would not have put money on either system holding even a short fall. Thanks to the comments section for noticing both, I didn’t until it was pointed out, which kinda scares me…
Fall. from Jeffrey Butler on Vimeo.
One of the biggest problems I see in ice climbing starts with people approaching ice climbing like they do rock climbing. That mindset is totally inappropriate, and leads to really avoidable accidents. A friend of mine recently sent me a link to a video shot Dracula, a one-pitch classic WI 4+ in New Hampshire. The leader gets pumped, struggles to get a screw in, and falls. Skip to 3: 28 to see it go bad, but the whole thing starts to go bad way before that point. I’m going to pick a few key points out of this video that are really serious errors. These errors are unfortunately very common, and they shouldn’t be.
Fortunately this video is on Vimeo, where you can load the whole video up then click and hold on the timeline bar below the video to move around the video easily. This video is not, as the narrator suggests, a film about “change.” I see and hear very little about “change” in the film, what I see are common errors leading to a completely avoidable accident, and not much mental switch among the climbers in the follow-up footage.
The first and biggest error in the thinking of the climbers is expressed at the end of the film when the belayer says at 14:20, “Falling is very common, it should be expected.” No, it isn’t. In 30 years of ice climbing I’ve caught exactly one lead fall (Guy Lacelle of all people), and never fallen on lead. Most of the people I climb with are the same; a few fell off once or maybe twice early in their careers before figuring out it was a really bad idea… Very occasionally things just go bad, but I can count those type of accidents on one hand. I know three people with fused ankles or worse from taking very short falls on ice. Falling is not common and should not be “expected.” A major mental reset is called for.
2:00 Apparently the belay is a in place subject to falling ice. The belayer decides the solution to this problem is to have enough slack in the system to move to avoid the falling ice because, “If I get knocked out by a piece of ice what good am I as a belayer?” I’m not making that quote up. A better solution would be to have the belayer not in the line of fire at all. Full stop. I can only remember two belays ever (ironically, one with Mark Twight) where I could not protect the belayer from falling ice, and in retrospect I put the belay in a shit place both times (sorry Mr. Dornian). Do shorter pitches, whatever it takes, but having your belayer in any position where he could be hit by falling ice is flat-out stupid or ignorant. Even the video guy is standing under falling ice at 3:20; Dracula is a one-pitch route for god’s sake, move out of the way! If the first rule of ice climbing is don’t fall off then surely the second is, “Don’t stand where you can get hit with falling ice.” This is rock-climbing thinking, where it’s abnormal to have falling ice. It is a given that a lot of ice will or can be falling down an ice climb, plan for it.
Lots of shots of the climber swinging tools, etc. This is going to sound harsh, but there needs to be some reality interjected into this film: The climber had absolutely no business being on lead on ice. His sticks were shit (3:17 is a good example of a lousy stick, you can see his tool wobble as he pulls up), his footwork is terrible, and I’m amazed he didn’t fall off earlier. I don’t say that to be insulting, but because I suspect less-direct commentary would be ineffective given the rest of what is said and done in the film.
Quote, “Yeah, I have great faith in the equipment now, and it gives me even more reason to put pro in.” This is just wrong on so many levels, but first of all it misses the entire point that ice climbing isn’t about the pro, it’s about first not falling off. Have enough pro so when something really surprising happens you don’t die (and he did have enough pro in for that), but thinking that, “Hey, the pro works, great, I can fall off more now!” is just wrong. The thinking should be, “Damn, I fell off, and only through incredible luck did I not completely fuck myself up for the rest of my life, I need to re-think my approach to ice climbing.”
I want to know what the climbers around 8:50 to 9:20 or so are saying under the voice-over. From my read of it they are saying, “Dude, get better fucking sticks into the ice, like this. And here’s how to clip into the pommel or lower hole on your tool to so you don’t fall off and nearly die again.” These are basic skills the climber should have known, and obviously didn’t.
The climber should have stopped way, way before he fell. In rock climbing it’s often OK to climb deep into a pump, even to the point of falling. In fact, that’s often the point in rock climbing. It is NOT ok to climb super-pumped on ice, the consequences of a fall are simply too high. This guy could have been paralyzed for life, broken both ankles, or died. If you’re getting super pumped on ice do what the other climbers suggest at 9:00: CLIP INTO YOUR TOOL and put a screw in. Train doing this on a TR so you’re comfortable with it. I have seen a half-dozen screws over the years placed a little into the ice, and then a tool beside the screw, but no climber… Falling off while placing a screw is a common way to fall, but totally needless. So, stop before you get super pumped, put in a good screw, reset, maybe back off if you can’t climb the pitch without getting super pumped. Or, climb it in five-foot sections putting in a screw and hanging; I have FAR more respect for someone who doe that than gets pumped and falls off. If you’re super pumped stop, reset. No “free” pitch is worth getting injured for.
So what should we do to avoid this accident?
-Climb on toprope more. Many, many laps. Practice putting in screws, climbing with and without crampons, hooking, making placements, etc. I’d bet this climber had done less than 30 pitches total of ice in his life. At least 150 30M laps is the bare minimum to have any sort of understanding of ice.
-Practice clipping into a tool and putting screws in. This normally takes two quickdraws on the harness, or a sling to the belay loop. Lots of ways to do it, practice.
The big problems I see in ice climbing are seldom to do with fitness. Almost always they start with the climber’s approach to the sport.
And finally, and this is an intense situation so it’s small criticism but something to think about, if I fall off like that please don’t lower me head-first back toward the ground. The climber’s legs kip over his head at about 9:50. Again, it’s an intense situation, but I’d suspect a possible spinal injury with that much force and speed… But a small criticism in the whole picture, and the climber is very lucky to have an ER doc on hand–if the situation were worse that could have made the difference between living and dying.
OK, that about sums it up, lots of other issues, but those are the main ones to me. I’d be happy to offer a free day of instruction with these climbers and their video guy to improve their technique and approach to ice climbing; I don’t mean this to be harsh to the individual climbers at all, with any luck I will have caused some thinking among a much wider readership as these errors are way too common, these guys just made a video… 就此话题，微信群“攀登圈”2016 0215 PM7~8对话
老狗：理念上，攀冰和Trad是类似的，但攀冰要求更高的Commitment。这个怎么翻译当时讨论很久没找到合适的词，大概是专注和对自己的承诺的意思吧，还得康老师来解释了。
孙斌：投入度
原上草：攀冰该是不允许不合理的冲坠距离和不能出现失效的安全铆点吧。如果都不允许攀冰先锋坠落，那我们打冰锥拖根绳子只是为了方便下降么？我也认为攀冰先锋坠落比攀岩危险数倍。在自己先锋的过程中再也不敢冲坠了，但一旦take了，若采用菊绳挂镐柄的方式继续上攀（此方法有依耐性），又无助于提高先锋攀登的能力。评估自身攀登能力选择能驾驭的线路是攀登前的一道判断题。
孙斌：不允许冲坠，只是因为攀冰冲坠受伤的几率太大，风险几率太大，风险级别太高。拖根绳子只是把脱落风险从直接拍死转为可能拍死，这从风险管理的角度看是合理的呀，所以老师们教的攀冰不冲坠也是风险管理的结果。所以要选择能力范围内的路线，且先锋时要高投入度的原因。运动攀可以脱落，因为脱落的风险级别不高，所以在我们可以接受范围内。攀冰的脱落风险超出了我们的接受程度，所以不建议脱落。
十一郎：是的，攀冰的先锋攀，零冲坠，应该是对自我能力、状态、冰况等综合判断的一个基本标准。
孙斌：这跟不同运动脱落的风险级别和每个人对风险的接受程度直接相关。如果我现在就想去死，才不怕脱落呢，free solo也随便来（不是对那些free soloer有什么不尊敬，只是就我自己情况出发）
老狗：孙老师解释的清楚[强]上课时争论过不允许冲坠那为什么还要打锥？解释大概也就这个意思。给自己一个最差的保险而已。
孙斌：在无法讲风险级别降低到可接受程度的情况下，用可能的方法将风险级别降低一点是我们攀登中常见的做法，两害相权取其轻就是这个道理。通过提高自己的投入度和降低路线难度来降低整体的风险级别，然后通过打冰锥降低风险的严重程度，这就是我们管理攀冰脱落风险的应对方案。 本帖最后由 西门吹水 于 2016-2-16 00:09 编辑
这个冰季，在双桥沟，除了十四之外，我知道的还有4宗冲坠发生
分别 神仙洞Wi4（无受伤），一根筋Wi5（无受伤），撵鱼坝Wi3（脚踝扭伤，打第一个锥时候冲坠），白岩沟wi4（手腕伤）
上面冲坠冰锥都没有被扯出来（撵鱼坝除外，因为正在打第一个锥就冲了）
作为有冲坠经验的过来人，我是理解“攀冰不能冲坠”应该是“攀冰要避免冲坠”
从下面3方面考虑
1：冰锥保护点强度的不确定性
2：身穿利器容易伤人
3：冰锥间的距离太长
1：冰锥保护点强度的不确定性，这是最难回答的问题，比较一致的共识是冰况决定强度，但是具体能承受多少KN?这个很难找到数据，因为冰差异实在太大， 就算同一块冰，上下午温度不一样，打进锥的强度都有区别。对于没有量化的数量，没有更多冲坠经验的攀冰者来说，只能凭感觉来判断锥稳不稳！这就造成了心理没底，不能冲坠！
2：身穿利器，冰镐，冰爪，在冲坠过程中很容易误伤到自己
3：冰锥间的距离。
我们先谈谈运动攀岩，一般正常的20米的运动攀岩线路大概有10个挂片，冲坠都是比较安全的，假设一条20米的运动攀岩线路只有5 个挂片，那冲坠受伤系数就翻几倍，假如20米3个挂片呢？20米1个挂片呢？你敢冲坠吗？
而20米的攀冰线路打冰锥数量可能（Wi2-3，1-2个锥）（wi4-5,3-5个锥）
所以，就算冰锥打的如bolt一样牢固，受伤系数也会高很多，因为攀冰打锥不会像运动打的那样”密“！ Commitment 翻译成投入度，不太准确。
翻译成负责，承诺好一点。
或者说自己对自己更诚实些。 Commitment 翻译成投入度，不太准确。
翻译成负责，承诺好一点。
或者说自己对自己更诚实些。 ...
epoxy 发表于 2016-2-16 11:24 http://bbs.rockbeer.org/images/common/back.gif
投入度还是比较贴切的，或者说需要用很认真的态度，不能掉以轻心，有半点闪失。 2月21日，三名攀冰者在加拿大班夫国家公园的伦多山（Mount Rundle）攀冰时发生意外：一名54岁的男子在攀爬Professor Falls线路(WI4，280米)接近登顶时冲坠。据称，这名男子当时正在攀爬一段很简单的部分，所以并未打入任何保护锚点，结果不慎脱落了。他的冲坠距离约有30米，浑身多处骨折，在入院治疗后脱离了生命危险。
On February 21, three climbers were nearing the top of Professor Falls (WI 4 920 feet) on the north side of Mount Rundle, Alberta, Canada. A 54-year-old man from nearby Canmore, whose name has not been released, was on lead.
“He had climbed through an easy section without putting any protection in . . . and then he fell off,” Grant Statham, a visitor safety specialist with Parks Canada, told the Calgary Herald. “He hit a ledge and continued to slide, so it wasn’t a clean fall—he bounced off a lot of stuff and slid through rocks.”
The man careened nearly 100 feet down Professor Falls before his belayer caught the fall. The belayer lowered him to a small ledge and another climbing party assisted them as they waited for helicopter rescue.
The climber sustained severe injuries in the fall, including a broken ankle, pelvis and back, and laceration to his arm, the Calgary Herald reports. He was stabilized and pulled off the ice ledge by the Parks Canada visitor safety team and flown to an ambulance. He was admitted to the hospital in critical condition, but has since stabilized.
分析 Analysis
Professor Falls, an area classic for the grade, consists of multiple sections of steep ice broken by ledges and short snow slopes. The man who fell, a Canmore local, was probably climbing below his limit and on familiar terrain.
Nick Yardley, an ice climber from Vermont who had climbed the route with his daughter Emma only days before, told Rock and Ice that he believes that the Canmore man fell on the fourth pitch of the climb, based on a photo published in the Calgary Herald.
“He must have kept sliding over the next steep pitch,” Yardley says. “ no snow on the ledges so it’s easy to see how a person could keep sliding.”
Yardley mentioned that the climb was fat and in great condition, however, it had also been unseasonably warm.
“The pitch he fell on was very wet,” Yardley says. “On the right, running surface water and fresh slushy surface ice hard to place gear or to get bomber secure placements.” The left side was drier but mushroomed, he explained, “so … perhaps not straight forward.”
When the man fell, he hadn’t placed protection for a long distance, likely because the ice wouldn’t provide solid screw placements, or because the man was comfortable on the terrain. He was runout, and without snow on the ledges, there was little to slow his fall.
预防 Prevention
Ice protection can be bomber, but it is only as strong as the ice that it’s placed in (if it’s placed at all). Oftentimes, when the ice is bad—brittle, hollow, aerated, slushy, etc.—ice climbers don’t bother to waste energy placing screws that will most likely not hold a fall. Instead, they find it safer to continue climbing to better ice and more reliable protection.
But running it out is also dangerous, especially on melting ice where it’s difficult to get secure pick placements.
"Think of yourself not as a stuntman but a craftsman," Andy Kirkpatrick, a veteran alpine climber, advised in a Rock and Ice What I Learned article (issue 232, February 2016). "Place lots of gear and make all routes safe. Don't do big ego-massaging runouts on easy ground, but also never assume there's no pro just because someone else can't find it."
On crummy ice, take the time to chop through the surface to better ice below for screw placements. The man's fall almost certainly would have been shortened had he cleared away the slushy surface ice to place solid pro.
Still, even good ice pro is not enough to make an ice climb safe if it's been consistently warm.
Large temperature fluctuations, and sunshine, not only wreak havoc on surface ice—making ice climbs more difficult to climb and to protect—but also can cause entire formations to become structurally unstable and at risk of collapse or detachment.
The two weeks prior to this accident saw temperatures into the mid-forties Fahrenheit.
If you’re planning on ice climbing, check the forecast as well as recent weather history. If it’s been too warm, put away the ice tools and crampons and pull out the rock shoes instead. Ice is only ice if it’s frozen.
信息来源
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/ice-climber-falls-100-feet-in-banff-national-park 小河他们那时应该还在Canmore，应该听说了。今年的确超热，夜里应该是-11C的时候实际会是3C。 回复 5# 陶瓷虾
无论是在练习还是实践，在岩壁或者冰壁上没有不投入的，或者说投入度不够的。
这也是攀岩攀冰的魅力之一——全身心投入！
唯一的差别是有的人对自己更诚实，更负责，在实践的条件下很谨慎，尽量不冒险。
安全的练习情况下，比如攀岩馆里，2米高的冰面上，练多难的都行，可以使劲磕。
但一旦玩真的，在远离通讯，救援，安全保障条件下的山里，就必须对自己更诚实，更负责。
能顶绳5.11就顶绳5.11，不要尝试领攀5.11
能领攀5.10B，就不要尝试领攀5.10C，
能传统5.10A，就不要尝试传统5.10B
身体状态不好就是不好，大幅降低难度，或者取消活动。
突破极限应该是在有安全保障的练习环境下进行，而不是到山里。
这么说可能很保守，毕竟很少有合适的练习场所，改进一下。
能顶绳5.11A就顶绳5.11A，可以尝试顶绳5.11B，顶绳怎么尝试都没事。
能领攀5.10B，可以尝试领攀5.10C，不要尝试领攀5.10D
能传统5.10A，可以尝试传统5.10B，不要尝试传统5.10C。
给我上攀岩课的老师，说他每年都要读一遍同一篇和技术无关的小文章，用来提醒自己要对自己诚实。
他也说了一句话，虽然有的时候不冲坠可能会受伤，但通常情况下，不冲坠就不会受伤！
换句话说，不干没把握的事，但人总会自我膨胀的！ “原上草：攀冰该是不允许不合理的冲坠距离和不能出现失效的安全铆点吧。如果都不允许攀冰先锋坠落，那我们打冰锥拖根绳子只是为了方便下降么？我也认为攀冰先锋坠落比攀岩危险数倍。在自己先锋的过程中再也不敢冲坠了，但一旦take了，若采用菊绳挂镐柄的方式继续上攀（此方法有依耐性），又无助于提高先锋攀登的能力。评估自身攀登能力选择能驾驭的线路是攀登前的一道判断题。”
阿草在吗？在的话烦请展开讲讲你的观点吧。 本帖最后由 树叉儿 于 2016-3-18 02:17 编辑
http://static.video.qq.com/TPout.swf?vid=q0184vz1f68&auto=0
Will Gadd 在看到这个视频后发表了如下的帖子
请大家在发表评论的时候说些有建设性的话，同时也请注意用词的文明。观众在下面的回帖中加入了很多有用的信息，比如关于安全带和GiGi的信息，但还是让我们更加关注攀冰实际操作中的问题，而不是攻击短片中的攀冰者和拍摄者。我们所有人都曾犯过错误，但我们也从中学到了东西，并希望做的更好。谢谢！
帖子中的两个截屏画面是关于安全带没有反扣，Kong的GiGi保护器没有被正确使用的画面。看到了安全带和保护器的使用时我也是惊呆了，我可不会花钱去买短距离冲坠都搞不定的装备上。谢谢评论中能够指出安全带和GiGi的问题，在没有人指出前我是一点都没意识到，想起来还挺后怕的......
Will Gadd关于这个视频的具体评论
我意识到的最大的一个问题就是在开始接触攀冰初期，攀冰者会向攀岩一样地去进行攀冰运动。这种想法是完全不对的，而且还会导致本可避免的意外。最近，我的一个朋友发给了我一个视频链接，是关于一段在新罕布什尔州名字叫做Dracula的典型WI4攀冰路线上发生的冲坠——先锋胳膊酸胀，勉强地放置冰锥，然后发生了冲坠。视频的3分28秒处，发生了意外，但整个意外早在这之前就已经有了种种迹象。在这里，我将挑出几个视频中的非常严重的错误。不幸的是，这些错误都很的常见，而且也都是不该犯的。
好在，这段视频可以在QQ视频上找到，你可以加载整段视频后在时间线上拖拽按钮进行观看。这段视频并非像影片讲述者暗示的那样，主题是关于“改变”。视频中，我能看到的、听到的“改变”微乎其微，而更多看到的是在先锋攀登时候犯下的常见错误，而这些意外完全是可以避免的。此外在接下来的镜头中，也没有看到它对其他攀登者有启示作用。
第一个我想指出的，同时也是首要的错误，那就是在影片的结尾处，14分20秒的地方，保护员说“冲坠是很常见的，也应该是可预见的。” 不，完全错了。在过去三十年的攀冰生涯中，我只制动过一次攀冰中发生的先锋冲坠，而自己从来没有发生过任何先锋冲坠。与我一起攀冰的大多数伙伴们也都是如此；只有少数几个人在刚开始攀冰的时候发生过1~2次攀冰冲坠，然后就发现在攀冰时发生冲坠真的是太糟糕了。虽然极少数时候，也有一些意外的事情发生，但这种事情屈指可数。我知道的有三个人在攀冰的时候冲坠了很短的距离，就导致脚踝骨折打了钢钉或更糟。所以，冲坠是不常见的，而且是不应该被“预见”的。这一点一定要重新认识。
视频的2分钟的位置，保护员的位置很明显是落冰会砸到的地方。对于这个问题，视频中的保护员决定留有足够的绳子，通过移动位置来避免被落冰砸到。因为“如果我被碎冰砸到了，我还是称职的保护员吗？”，这句话可不是我编出来的。好的解决方法应该是彻底让保护员不在路线的正下方就可以了。
截至现在，我只记得有两次攀冰我不能确保保护员的安全（讽刺的是，其中一次就是和Mark Twight一起攀冰），而且两次都把保护点放置在了很不靠谱的地方（真对不起你，Dornian）。所以，虽然你不顾一切地缩短了攀爬的绳距，但是如果你将保护员至于会被冰砸到的危险境地，那也是愚蠢至极的。
视频的3分20秒，就连拍视频的家伙也是站在落冰的下方。幸好Dracula只是一条单段的攀冰线路。一定不要站在了线路的正下方！如果说攀冰的第一法则就是不要冲坠，那么攀冰的第二法则就一定是“不要站在会被落冰砸到地方。” 如果觉得落冰是不常发生的，这就是攀岩思维。要事先假设在攀冰的过程中会有很多落冰，然后对此作出计划和应对。
视频里还有很多攀冰者挥镐的镜头。这虽然这听起来很刺耳，但我还是有必要说句实话：这位攀冰者根本就不够资格进行先锋攀冰。他的打镐都很差（3分17秒就是一个坏镐的最好例子，你能看到他拉起自己的时候冰镐在摆动），他的脚法也很糟，所以我都很纳闷他居然到了这个时候才发生冲坠。我说这些并没有任何侮辱的意思，但我担心说得太委婉对其后面的所作所为起不到作用。
视频中说“是的，我现在对装备更有信心了，这也给了我放置更多保护的理由。” 这句话在很多层面来说也都是错误的，首先它没有抓住攀冰的要领，不冲坠才是攀冰的关键，而不是放置保护。因为放置足够的保护，当意外发生的时候没有挂掉（视频中，他确实放了足够的保护），然后你就会想“看啊，保护真管用，太好了，我现在可以更多地发生冲坠了！”这种想法完全就是错误的。正确的想法应该是，“该死，我冲坠了，要不是这么幸运，我可能就挂了，我需要重新思考我攀冰的方法。”
我想知道视频中8分50秒到9分20秒左右被画外音覆盖的其他攀冰者说话的内容。我觉得他们可能在说“老兄，应该打镐再打结实点嘛，应该像这样。应该这样把牛尾扣在冰镐的上孔或下孔里，这样就不会差点被摔死了。”这些都是很基础的技术，攀冰者都应该知道，但显然他们不知道。
视频里的攀冰者应该在发生冲坠之前就停止了攀爬了。攀岩的时候，如果你的胳膊酸胀还是可以继续进行攀爬的，甚至还可以一直爬到冲坠。事实上，攀岩就是要经常达到这个临界点的。但在攀冰的时候，还攀爬到胳膊特别酸胀就很有问题了，这样发生冲坠的可能性就非常之高了。视频中的这个哥们轻则可能会脚踝骨折，重则可能下半辈子瘫痪，或者直接就没命了。
如果你在攀冰的时候，觉得胳膊非常的酸胀，就应该按照视频9分钟时候那个攀冰者建议的去做：先把自己扣在冰镐上，然后打一颗冰锥。可以先在有指导的情况下这样练习，这样可以使你更加安心。攀冰这么多年，在这种情况下，我看到过有人拧冰锥的时候只拧进去一点，也看见过有人在冰锥旁边打镐，但就是没看见过…（累了也不打镐拧锥休息的）。
在放置冰锥的时候发生冲坠是常见的一种冲坠，但这种冲坠根本就是可以避免的。所以，在胳膊非常酸胀的时候就应该停止攀爬了，然后好好拧进一颗锥，重新调整一下，如果胳膊真的酸胀得厉害无法完成这段绳距，就干脆降下来。或者，再向上爬1.5米，再放置一根冰锥然后把自己吊在那里休息；于我来说，相较于胳膊酸胀还继续攀爬到冲坠的攀冰者我更敬重那些勇于退下的攀冰者。如果你的胳膊已经酸胀，请停下来重新调整，没有什么线路是值得用受伤来换取的。
那么我们要怎样做才能避免这样的意外发生呢？
多进行顶绳攀爬。一趟一趟地爬。练习放置冰锥，穿冰爪爬，不穿冰爪爬，练习钩挂技术等。我打赌这名攀冰者从初学到现在，所攀的绳距不超过30个。30米的线路，至少攀上150回才能开始对冰有一点点感觉。
练习将自己挂入冰镐，练习放置冰锥。一般来说，这种情况需要安全带上有两把快挂，或者安全带的保护环上有一根扁带。有很多种方法，一定要多加练习。
攀冰中我见过的最大问题就是很少有人做健身。大多数的攀冰者都是以攀登者（攀岩）的方式开始这项运动的。
最后，还有一个比较关键的问题，这里不做过多的批评，但大家可以认真思考一下。如果我要是这样摔下来，请千万不要把我大头朝下地放到地面。视频9分50秒的时候，攀冰者成倒置的体态被放下来。再说明一下，这种时候非常地关键，以这样的速度和冲击力摔下来，我严重怀疑攀登者的脊椎会受伤......但在整个视频中对这点没做任何评论。很幸运的是，在事情发生的时候刚好有一名攀岩者是急诊医生——如果情况更糟的话，攀冰者可能面对的就是生或死不同的结果了。
好了，大概就是这些，还有很多其他的问题，但是上述的问题对我来说是最为重要的。我很乐意为视频中的攀冰者和拍摄视频的哥们提供一天免费的培训，借此来增强他们攀冰的技术和方法；我这样语出不逊并没有针对某个攀冰者的意思，他们只是拍了个视频而已，但如果运气好的话，我的这篇文章将会就这些攀冰中常见的错误在读者中引起更广泛的思考。
翻译/芽子
非常感谢芽子的翻译
转载请注明出处，商业用途请联系作者 运动攀：falling
传统叫做：it's better not to fall
攀冰是：do not fall
传统和攀冰比较相像的地方是当攀登者力竭都会影响所设置保护的完美性，进而影响保护点的受力状况。
我同意epoxy所说的：“唯一的差别是有的人对自己更诚实，更负责，在实践的条件下很谨慎，尽量不冒险。”
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