pataclimb.com发布的关于风险管理的一些考虑
原文在此：http://pataclimb.com/knowledge/articles/pdf/risk_managment_pataclimb.pdf完全引用如下：
Risk management in the El Chaltén Massif Some considerations
The huge number of accidents that have been happening in comparison to the number of users is worrisome. The experience of some of the climbers relative to the objectives they choose is concerning. Each good weather window there is at least one serious accident. Because the rescues are done on a volunteer and good samaritan basis, at this pace the pressure on the local community is unsustainable.
Climbing in such a serious wilderness area, where the rescues are done on a volunteer basis and where it is not possible to carry out wall rescues (other than self-rescue not a single wall rescue has ever been successful), requires that we learn to choose objectives that correspond comfortably to our skill level. Adequate risk management is essential. It is mandatory to behave in a self sufficient manner.
Some of the questions that climbers should ask themselves before attempting a route are the following:
事故频频发生，情况令人担忧。不少climber好高骛远，每次好天气一来，就要出一次大事。荒山野岭，风险管理是关键，大家必须自给自足，所以列了这些问题在出发前认真考虑：
– Are we in a physical and mental state that is conducive to the ascent we plan to do?
我们的体力和精神状态有没有达到计划路线所需要的水平？
– Do we know the technical, physical and experience level of our partners?
我们知道搭档的技术、体力和经验吗？
– Have we chosen the objective based on our current condition, the conditions of the mountain and the weather conditions or are we following a plan devised months ago?
我们要执行的计划，是根据目前团队、山地和天气情况制定的还是遵照几个月前制定的计划？
– Is the objective we have chosen a logical progression when compared to our previous experiences or is it a significant departure?
选定的目标和以前的经验相比是一个理性的进步还是严重偏离？
– Do we have group, cultural or personal pressure?
我们有没有受到团队、文化或者个人的压力？
– Do we feel compelled to have a certain result?
我们是不是一定要得到某个结果？
– Do we have the technical level that the route requires?
我们有没有达到路线需要的技术水平？
– Do we have enough experience to find the ascent and descent routes?
我们有没有足够的经验找到攀登和下降的路线？
– Do we have the gear that the route requires and that corresponds to our level of skill?
我们有没有和路线和技术能力相匹配的器材？
– What is our ascent plan?
我们的上攀计划是什么？
– How many hours or days will we need to pull it off?
我们计划要用多少小时／天？
– If our progression does not correspond to what we have planned, will we be willing to turn around?
如果进展缓慢，我们是不是愿意中途下撤？
– Will we encounter many situations or difficulties that are unfamiliar to us, that will require improvisation?
我们会遇到困难或者意外吗？是不是需要急中生智来对付？
– Do we know the escape routes that our ascent line offers?
我们知不知道上攀路线上的逃跑路线？
– Can we recognize if a rappel station is safe or not?
我们对下降保护站的判断有多少把握？
– Do we know how to improve an existing rappel station?
我们知不知道如何增加一个已有的下降保护站的安全性？
– Do we know how to set rappel stations in virgin terrain, in rock, snow and ice?
我们知不知道如何在新的地方，在岩石冰雪情况下设置下降保护站？
– Do we know how to recognize a good and a bad piton?
我们知不知道如何鉴别一个 Piton的好坏？
– Are we aware that half of the climbing deaths in this area have occurred while descending?
我们知不知道半数攀登死亡事故是在下降时发生的？
– What is our plan in case of an emergency or accident?
我们有没有一个应急计划？
– Who will we contact and how?
我们和谁联系？如何联系？
– Do we have the physical and technical skills to carry out self-rescue?
我们有没有体力和技能来自救？
– Do we know how to do crevasse rescue in a fast and efficient manner? Have we practiced this enough to be able to do it under stress?
我们知道如何冰缝快速高效捞人吗？我们有没有反复练习到在有压力的情况下也能做得很好？
– Do we know how to build a snow anchor to do crevasse rescue?
我们知道怎么在雪地做保护站从冰缝捞人？
– Are we aware that 20% of the fatalities in this area have been the result of unroped glacier travel?
有没有了解20%的死亡事故原因是冰川上不结组？
– Are we able to put our partner on our back and rappel multiple times until we reach the ground? Have we practiced this enough to be able to do it under stress?
我们有没有能力背着搭档，多段下降到平地？我们有没有反复练习到在有压力的情况下也能完成？
– If our partner falls leading and is unresponsive, are we able to climb up to him, assist him and lower him back to the belay station? Have we practiced this enough to be able to do it under stress?
如果先锋脱落昏迷，我们能否爬上去帮他并下撤到保护站？我们有没有反复练习到在有压力的情况下也能完成？
– Are we familiar with wilderness first aid?
我们对野外救生知道多少？
– Do we know how to diagnose and treat hypothermia, fractures, bleeding wounds, concussions and other?
我们是不是有能力诊断和治疗失温、骨折、出血、脑震荡和其它问题？
– Do we carry the implements required to stabilize such situations?
我们带了用来稳定伤情的医用品吗？
– Do we know how to confirm if someone is dead?
我们知不知道如何确诊某人已经死亡？
If we plan on being on snow:
雪山情况下
– Do we know how to recognize the signs of avalanche danger?
我们会不会判断雪崩迹象？
– Do we know how to manage a group in terrain that is potentially dangerous for avalanches?
有没有能力在雪崩常发区带领队伍穿过？
– Are we aware that these considerations are not only for winter but for all year?
知不知道全年都要考虑雪崩因素而不只是冬季？
– Do we know how to choose an objective based on the conditions on the mountain and the weather forecast?
知不知道如何感觉山和天气来选择攀登目标？
– Do we know how to dress accordingly?
知不知道如何着装？
– Do we know what weather conditions we are able to climb in?
知不知道我们在什么天气情况下能爬？
– Does our ascent involve objective dangers?
我们的上攀路线有没有客观危险？
– Do we have the ability to take the forecasted freezing line into consideration when evaluating the risks that we will encounter?
我们能否根据预报的冰冻线高点来估计可能遇到的危险？
– Can we identify the areas of the mountain that will become dangerous if the temperature raises?
我们有没有能力判断哪些山在气温升高之后会变得危险？
If we find bad conditions on the route we planned to climb, or if there are many people on the climb:
如果想爬的路线情况不好，或者很多人在爬了，
– Do we have a planB?
有没有一个备选计划
– Can we recognize the types of routes that become too dangerous when there are too many rope teams on them?
我们有没有能力判断什么路线上人多了会太危险？
– Can we recognize the positive and the negative aspects of climbing in a large group?
我们能否认识到大队伍攀登的利弊？
– Are we aware that self-rescue will be far more viable if we are a team of three or more people?
我们有没有意识到3人以上团队自救能力大增？
– Are we also aware that group mentality can lead to a false sense of security?
我们有没有意识到团队有可能带来虚假的安全感？
– Are we able to retreat without over dramatizing and perceiving it as a defeat?
我们能否做到从容下撤而不是作秀般夸张将其视为失败？
– Are we aware that retreat can often times be a sign of human and sporting maturity that deserves the utmost respect?
我们是否意识到下撤往往是成熟的标志应该受到敬重？
– Are we aware that we don’t have to risk our lives only because there is good weather, even if good weather is rare?
我们知不知道即使好天气很稀罕，也没有必要因此而去冒险？
– Are we aware that, in case of needing a rescue, we will be forcing many people to leave behind their plans and potentially put their lives at risk?
我们知不知道，为了救援，我们将迫使许多人放弃他们的攀登计划，甚至冒着生命危险来救我们？
Safe climbing.
www.pataclimb.com nice one! 学习了 oh well..plan b :lol plan b 最好是各个主环节的备选应对方案而不是另一个线路攀登计划，作为备选线路计划，其实重视程度和研究准备程度远远不如原计划，因此风险会更高。
个人理解:)
页:
[1]