金冰镐奖提名揭晓
Kyashar南柱首登，Shiva东北山脊，Muztagh Tower东北柱，Ogre南侧，Kamet西南壁，南迦帕巴特mazeno山脊---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kyashar (6,770m), Mahalangur Himal-Khumbu Section
First ascent of the south pillar and second, known, overall ascent of the mountain. The goal of at least six previous expeditions, the 2,200m pillar was climbed in six days by Tatsuya Aoki, Yasuhiro Hanatani and Hiroyoshi Manome (Japan). The crux occurred high on the route on the fifth day -a five-pitch arête of feather-like unconsolidated snow up to 80°, which was deemed ungradeable and irreversible. Descent by the west ridge. The Nima Line has difficulties of ED+, 5.10a and M5.
www.thebmc.co.uk/japanese-succeed-on-the-ofttried-south-pillar-of-kyashar
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Shiva (6,142m), Pangi Region, Himachal Pradesh
First ascent of the northeast ridge, dubbed the Prow of Shiva (ED+), and fifth known overall ascent of the mountain. After acclimatizing on a 5,500m peak, Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden (UK) spent seven days reaching the summit, finding sustained climbing, which ranged from numerous pitches up icy cracks in Chamonix-style granite to long, protectionless leads on thinly-iced slabs reminiscent of winter climbing on Ben Nevis. They traversed the mountain, descending the the south ridge, most of which had previously been climbed.
http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/2013/01/india-pangi-region-shiva-6142m-northeast-ridge-the-prow-of-shiva/
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Muztagh Tower (7,284m), Baltoro Muztagh
First ascent of the 2,000m northeast face via the northeast spur in a 17-day alpine-style push by Dmitry Golovchenko, Alexander Lange and Sergey Nilov (Russia). They were only the fifth party to reach one or both of the twin summits. For the first week or more they climbed slowly, or not at all, through bad weather to 6,200m. The technical crux was the very steep rock barrier between 6,600m and 6,900m, which was crossed by a long, rising, 600m traverse. They eventually ran out of food and gas before reaching the summit, and unable to gain the original route on the northwest ridge, were forced to descend the objectively dangerous north face /ridge directly. Think Twice had 3,400m of climbing and was graded ED, 6a/6b, A2 and M6. Nothing was left on the mountain.
www.thebmc.co.uk/russians-climb-coveted-northeast-face-of-muztagh-tower
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Baintha Brakk (a.k.a The Ogre, 7,285m), Panmah Muztagh
First ascent of the southeast ridge to southeast face to south face, and third overall of the summit. An ascent of the Ogre from the south had been attempted numerous times previously. After returning to Skardu for a rest after their K7 ascent, Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy joined Josh Wharton(USA) to climb a cunning line, making a second bivouac at 6,900m (just above the 2009 high point reached by Clouet, Dusserre and Para from France). Wharton was unwell and after some discussion Dempster and Kennedy continued to the summit, returning to make a taxing descent. Sections of M6 at 6,800m and one traverse pitch of ungradeable rubble.
www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/bd-athlete-kyle-dempster-reports-on-new-route-on-the-south-face-of-the-ogre-with-fellow-bd-athletes-hayden-kennedy-and-josh-wharton.
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Kamet (7,756m), Central Garhwal
First ascent of the ca 2,000m southwest face of the highest mountain in India for which it is possible to gain a permit. Sébastien Bohin, Didier Jourdain, Sébastien Moatti and Sébastien Ratel (France) climbed the face, via a succession of steep snow fields linked by often vertical ice pitches, in five days. From a final bivouac at 7,500m on the edge of the narrow south face, the team reached the summit, returned for the night, and then the following day descended the unclimbed south face. Dubbed Spicy Game, the route was graded ED, VI/5+ 90°.
www.thebmc.co.uk/french-climb-kamet-new-route-alpinestyle
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Nanga Parbat (8,125m)
First complete ascent to the summit of the often-attempted southwest or Mazeno Ridge by Sandy Allan and Rick Allen (UK). They were accompanied for much of the way by Cathy O'Dowd (S Africa), Lhakpa Rangdu Sherpa, Lhakpa Zarok Sherpa and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (Nepal). Having crossed all eight Mazeno Peaks and camped at 7,200m above the Mazeno Gap, all six attempted to complete a new line following the crest of the ridge integrally. They ran out of time and returned after a hard 18-hour day. O'Dowd and the three Sherpas then descended the Rupal flank: Allan and Allen traversed to the Kinshofer and followed this to the summit, eventually descending to Diamir base camp after a total of 18 days. The ridge is variously quoted as 10-13km in length, and the overall difficulty equivalent to ED (Scottish IV mixed and much committing climbing along narrow, exposed, corniced arêtes)
http://mazenoridge.com/ 本帖最后由 豌豆 于 2013-3-12 07:01 编辑
帖子里“Baintha Brakk (a.k.a The Ogre, 7,285m), Panmah Muztagh”的介绍打不开，可以看下这个：
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13w/wfeature-mugs-2012-kennedy
湿婆山的中文攀登报告：
http://wandou0123.blog.sohu.com/257255610.html
虾总你预测一下哪个能得奖呗 必属Mazeno Ridge ogre可能最大，mazeno可能最小，现在的规则很明确就是轻量。上一届评审过程中，最没有争议，最先定下的是斯洛文尼亚的K7，鲨鱼鳍在轻量上吃亏，所以没得奖。
慕士塔格tower没到顶，硬伤，不知道有没有哪次得奖是给没登顶的。
多年死磕和少有人探索，我也说不好哪个更受青睐，剩下3个，瞎猜，shiva大于kyashar大于kamet
大名单出来的时候，看了一遍，没有仔细研究。第一感觉就是这次提名肯定全部出于尼泊尔印度和巴基斯坦，今年在喜马拉雅和喀喇昆仑的牛逼攀登还是很多的。
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