阿诗玛在Hueco Tanks
本帖最后由 zenith 于 2011-4-5 02:22 编辑后面回帖也很好。 磕线和开线的人应该都可以看看。
http://www.b3bouldering.com/2011/04/04/ashima-in-hueco-tanks/
By B3
Ashima Shiraishi is a 9 year old climber from New York City, New York who has recently been climbing very well. She impressively won her age group (11 and under) at the ABS Youth Nationals in Boulder, CO. According to the Big Up Productions Blog she visited Hueco Tanks this spring and had an outstanding trip. She climbed Chablanke V11/12, Rogered in a Shower V10/11, Mojo V10, Crimping Christ on a Cross V10 and flashed Mangum V9.
The most interesting bit of news from the trip, however, was her near send of Shaken Not Stirred V12, the classic and hard power endurance problem in the Martini Cave on North Mountain. This problem is not only the standard for the grade, it has a notoriously long move on it and many have wondered if a girl could ever make the reach. Ashima found a way, and climbed through the entire problem three times. Most impressively, she did not claim the ascent because she dabbed on the small tree that somehow continues to grow in the cave. Here is more from what Big Up had to say:
On her second day working the problem she sent through the crux but her feet swung out on the last hard move and banged a tree. She continued to the top, but the “dab” made the ascent invalid.How harsh is it to have to tell a nine year old that the most impressive thing she’s ever done doesn’t count? Twice more she climbed through the crux and kicked the tree, virtually sending the problem three times in a row. It was painful, there were some tears, and she left without completing the official ascent. But it was still one of the raddest things we’ve seen in a while.
It is inspiring to know that there are climbers out there who approach their climbing with such high standards. Ashima is not the future of women’s climbing, she is already near the top, not only physically, but in her approach to the sport as well. Perhaps she will set new standards in bouldering difficulty. Perhaps she will be the first woman to make a substantial impact by finding and developing new boulders. Perhaps she will push women’s competition farther than anyone could have thought possible. It’s nice to know that if she does continue climbing, she will lead with high-minded ethics.
Remember, next time your foot kicks the pad, your spotter says, “You’re still good!” and you keep climbing, anxiously running home to update your scorecard, there is a 9 year old girl, probably sitting in her 3rd grade class in New York City, who left Hueco Tanks a dab shy of Right Martini.
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