又见link-up
本帖最后由 gump 于 2010-6-29 08:53 编辑http://www.alpinist.com/media/web10s/honnold_el_capitan.jpg
Tom Evans
Honnold Breaks Yosemite Speed Records
Andrew Freeman
June 25, 2010
原文链接 http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-honnold-half-dome-nose-speed
Prolific climber Alex Honnold broke several Yosemite Valley speed records on Wednesday, June 22, with his one-day solo enchainment of two Grade VI routes, first The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (5.12a, 23 pitches) and then The Nose of El Capitan (5.9 C1, 31 pitches).
多产的攀岩者Alex Honnold在6月22日星期三打破了几个约塞米提山谷的速攀记录，他在一天内单人攀登了两条六级线路，半穹顶的西北壁常规线路(5.12a, 23 段)，和船长峰的鼻子线路(5.9 C1, 31段)。
No stranger to high commitment solos, Honnold made headlines with his one-day free solo link-up of Astroman (IV 5.11c, 10 pitches) and The Rostrum (IV 5.11c, 8 pitches) in 2007. Then on April 1, 2008 he free soloed Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12+, 9 pitches) in Zion National Park, a feat that, when announced by climbing media, was thought by some to be an April fools prank. In September of the same year, Honnold completed the first free solo of The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome. Just this April, he free soloed The Original Route (V 5.12b, 1,000') on Rainbow Wall and Prince of Darkness (III 5.10c, 700') at Red Rocks in Nevada before downsoloing Dream of Wild Turkeys (III 5.10a, 700').
Honnold 高效率的单人攀登在各大媒体屡次造就雷人标题，2007年他在约塞米提山谷一天内单人自由连攀两条四级线路，Astroman( 5.11c, 10段)，The Rostrum(5.11c, 8段)。2008年在锡安山国家公园单人自由攀登月光拱壁(V 5.12+, 9段)，当时这个消息发布在攀登媒体上，被很多人误认为一个愚人节的恶作剧。当年9月，Honnold 完成了半穹顶西北壁常规线路，他是第一个单人自由攀登半穹顶的人。今年四月，他单人自由攀登完成了内华达州彩虹墙的原始线路(V 5.12b, 1,000英尺)，和红岩山的黑暗王子(III 5.10c, 700英尺)，然后从野火鸡的梦想线路(III 5.10a, 700英尺)下攀。
In a characteristically nonchalant email, Honnold described his impressive day of climbing: "I woke up at 4:45ish but it was too dark to do anything really. I think I started climbing for real at about 5:30." Honnold topped out Half Dome after about 2 hours and 9 minutes of climbing, though he says that his timing was "a little imprecise"—he started the timer when he reached his food stash in the middle of the first pitch, and spent ten minutes trying to remove a fixed cam on Thank God Ledge, 21 pitches off the ground.
在一封淡定的邮件中，Honnold 这样描述他这个拉风的攀登日：”我早晨4：45起来的时候天色还很黑，真的什么干不了。我真正开始攀爬的时间应该是在5：30。“ Honnold 在经过2小时9分钟的攀登站后在半穹顶的顶端，他说他的时间有些不准确，他是到达第一段绳距中间的食物储藏点后开始计时的，而在位于<感谢上帝>平台的第21个绳距，他花费了10分钟时间拆除一个机械塞。
For Half Dome, Honnold brought a "thin rack for the Zig Zags," a short rope—which he never used—and a small backpack to carry approach shoes, water and food.
攀爬半穹顶，Honnold 带了少量的装备，以便于通过难点段落<the Zig Zags>，一条短绳—尽管他从未使用—和一个小背包装他的徒步鞋，水和食物。
After reaching the base of El Cap, Honnold started up The Nose, beginning his timer on the top of the first pitch to avoid the "gong show" at the base. In his email, Honnold said that the whole route took 5:49, but is "calling it an even six, all told."
在到达船长峰底部后，Honnold 开始攀登鼻子线路，在第一段绳距的顶端他开始计时，以避免在地面。。。 "gong show"？。在电子邮件中，Honnold 说整个线路用了5小时49分，但是“甚至是6小时。”
For his solo of The Nose, Honnold carried a larger rack, a 60-meter rope, and a single "jug/aider." Honnold used the rope for the pendulum on Pitch 2, and again above Sickle Ledge. He was only on belay twice all day: while rope-soloing to get up to the Boot Flake and at the Great Roof.
独攀鼻子线路，Honnold 准备了更多的装备，一条60的绳子，和一个单上升器。Honnold 在第二段绳距的摆荡，和Sickle Ledge上使用了绳子。全程只有两次使用了保护：靴子岩页和大屋檐。
Honnold explained that he was not preoccupied with free climbing any of the pitches of The Nose: "None were truly free since I stood on bolts and pins as much as I could. But I pretty much French freed everything except the first 25 feet of The Glowering Spot and a little section getting to the Boot ."
Honnold 谦虚地说他在鼻子线路的每一个绳距都不符合自由攀登的要求，“鼻子这条线真是很难自由攀登，没有一段让我感到完全放松，我几乎使用了每一段的每一个挂片。不过我还是非常满意以法式自由攀登了所有绳距，除了开始的25英尺郁闷斑点和到达靴子岩页的一小段。
Alex claimed that "the whole timing thing is not a strong point for me...I stopped to look at two amazing birds on the way down from Half Dome. I'd hate to have to hurry." Still, he admits that he "was hoping to break the speed record on , which is 1:50 or something."
Alex 说：”这次攀登对我来说不是特别看重时间记录。。。我有时停下来看两只的鸟从半穹顶向下飞落。我讨厌赶时间。“ 不过他承认“有希望打破半穹顶的速攀记录，1小时50分或更短。”
In total, both routes—from the base of Half Dome to the tree that marks the official summit of El Cap—took him just over 11 hours, from 5:30 a.m. until 4:40 p.m. Honnold said these ascents break the solo climbing speed record for both routes, the solo link-up record for El Cap and Half Dome, and the partner link-up record for El Cap and Half Dome.
两条线路全程—从半穹顶山脚到船长峰顶端标志性的松树—他只用了11个小时，从早晨5：30到下午4：40。 Honnold 说，这次攀登打破了两条线路的单人速攀记录，单人连攀船长峰和半穹顶，和搭档连攀船长峰和半穹顶的记录。 部分段落理解有问题，大家斧正 Good work,Gump
check:
Dream of Wild Turkeys, you missed "Dream of"
Zig Zags is one of the crux section of the RNWF of Half Dome
"Gong Show" is a metaphor, imagine "Qiao1 Luo2"
And you made one mistake here:
"the whole timing thing is not a strong point for me... "
means he was not chasing the time record particularly. for example, he even stopped on the descend of half dome to watch two interesting birds, just to enjoy the moment. blah, blah, blah. 谢谢，已修理。
还是不明白为什么要在第一段爬完再计时。
不是很把时间当回事的做法应该是在还没走到就计时。
敲锣？一说更不理解。 Triple Link UP: Nose + Salathe + Lurking Fear
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-63010
Alex Honnold (aka Hondo) and Sean Leary (aka Stanley) started last night at 8pm to do the TRIPLE link up on ElCap. They climbed the Nose in 4 hours 15 minutes with Stanley taking the first half of the route and Hondo the second. The Zodiac boys watched them pass by their bivy, just after midnight. They then went to the Salathe, which they did in 6 hours and some change, again splitting the climb into two big blocks. I saw them this morning as they came by the Bridge to fuel up for the last of the three climbs, Lurking Fear. Hondo looked the worse for wear, as he had driven up from LA yesterday, with no sleep before the climb. But some food and drink perked him up, and they soon were back at it. They departed the Bridge around 11:35am.
I went way out west later in the afternoon to get some shots of them. The heat out there was awesome, and for the first time in my memory, the air was so turbulent that heat distortion ruined most of my shots!! I picked them up as Hondo short fixed Stanley to the end of the 6th and lead the traverse easily. Stanley jugged slowly but steadily, and Hondo didn’t look too crisp, but they were moving along, in spite of the heat. I was very impressed, as I got torched off the route 2 years ago, and almost died!!
Anyway, I shot them until Hondo got to the Pillar of Despair, and then the heat sent me packing. So at this moment I don’t know if they make it, but feel confident they did within the 24 hours. I left them at 3:30pm at the top of the 9th pitch. They have until 8pm to make it within 24 hours.
Pretty cool stuff!!! 本帖最后由 gump 于 2010-8-3 12:20 编辑
近日，两位年轻美国攀岩者Alex Honnold 和Sean Leary在约塞美蒂国家自然公园24小时内成功挑战“船长峰”上三条高难路线：诺思（The Nose）、赛拉瑟岩壁（Salathé）及“猛鬼吓人”（ Lurking Fear）。
1985年出生的美国小伙子Alex Honnold因突出的自由攀登和速攀能力近年在美国及国际攀岩界崭露头角。这次他重返“犯罪现场”，志在拿下一些新项目。据报道，6月30日晚上8点左右他们开始挑战三线路连攀，先是诺思路线，耗时4小时15分，Stanley领攀了前半段，Hondo后半部分时间已经到了午夜时分；接下来的赛拉瑟大约用了6个小时，时间已经到了次日清晨；这会Hondo看起来有点“衣衫褴褛”了，前一天他从拉斯维加斯自驾车来到约塞美蒂，攀登前一直没有睡觉。但在补充了一些食物和饮料后，他即刻精神焕发，11：35分他们再次出发，开始最后一条路线的攀登。当天的晚上8点左右，在完成了24段绳据2400米距离攀登的 Honnold和Leary开始享用他们的披萨晚餐。他们成功24小时内完成了三路线的连攀。
线路简介
船长峰,约塞美蒂,美国(El Capitan, Yosemite, U.S.A.)
诺思(The Nose)
首登者: W. Harding, W. Merry, G. Whitmore (1958年)
长度: 900米 (31段绳距)
难度等级: 5.13c或 5.9 A2
首次自由攀登者: Lynn Hill (1993年)
赛拉瑟岩壁(The Salathé Wall)
首登者:R. Robbins, C. Pratt, T. Frost (1961年)
长度: 900 米 (35段绳距)
难度: 5.13b
首次自由攀登: Todd Skinner和Paul Piana (交替领攀)
猛鬼吓人( Lurking Fear,船长峰)
首登者: Dave Bircheff, Phil Bircheff, Jim Pettigrew(1976年)
长度: 600米 (19绳距)难度: 5.7 C2F
Alex Honnold因突出的自由攀登和速攀能力近年在攀岩界崭露头角。去年夏季，他和Sean Leary一起红点了“船长”峰的Salathé岩壁，耗时仅8。5小时，比之前的16小时记录缩短近一半；08年9月份，ALEX以2小时50分自由攀登了HALF DOME西北壁常规线路的攀登，难度5。12A，23段绳距。
船长峰“是美国约塞米蒂国家公园内非常具有代表性的一处垂直岩壁，高约910米。峭壁上的花岗岩据说已有一亿年的历史，岩石间几乎没有便于攀爬的缝隙，因而在世界各地的攀岩者眼里，”船长峰“都是极大的挑战。在”船长峰“数条颇具难度的攀岩路线中，诺思路线无疑是世界上最好的攀岩路线之一，这条路线已有 50多年的历史，共由31段绳距组成。由于岩壁光滑，异常险峻，通常情况下，这条路线需要四天才能完成，无论是从体力、技术还是心理承受力来讲都是对攀岩者的巨大挑战。因此每年吸引着众多攀岩好手在此奋战，却少有成功者。2008年7月2日，日本攀岩名宿Yuji Hirayama（平山裕司）和美国人Hans Florine以2小时37分的成绩创造了该峰的攀登记录；今年5月，瑞士攀登名将Ueli Steck搭档Alex Honnold在美国约塞美蒂国家公园集中精力训练，试图再创诺思路线（The Nose）新的速攀记录。
摘自八二六四 本帖最后由 gump 于 2010-8-19 17:29 编辑
Honnold on the Chief: Four Routes in a Day
一日四线连攀
By Amanda Fox
News link: On July 30, Alex Honnold added a Squamish enchainment to his impressive résumé of link-ups. Waking at 4 a.m., Honnold and partner Will Stanhope freeclimbed four routes on the Chief, starting with The Free Grand (5.13b, 10 pitches), which normally gets climbed at 5.11a A0 due to two bolt ladders.
Next was University Wall (5.12a, 8 pitches), followed by Northern Lights (5.12a, 12 pitches). Last, the pair climbed Freeway (5.11c, 11 pitches) in the hot afternoon sun. The climbers made it back to the van at 6:30 p.m., having climbed more than 40 pitches in 13.5 hours.
There have been several other enchainments Squamish in recent years. In August 2007, Matt Maddaloni and Paul Cordy climbed University Wall, Northern Lights, and Freeway in 16.5 hours, which they called the Triple Crown. A year before, Matt Segal and Sonnie Trotter completed an even harder link-up, climbing The Grand Wall, The Shadow (5.13b), and Black Dyke (5.13b). In 2004, Tommy Caldwell and Trotter completed what they called the Grand Slam, linking The Grand Wall, The Shadow, and Freeway.
页:
[1]