El Cap的大买卖
Kevin Jorgeson & Tommy Caldwell直播，看怎么搞下来的。
http://kjorgeson.blogspot.com/2010/03/mescalito-days-1-3.html bone high bone cold
http://matadorsports.com/interview-kevin-jorgeson-on-free-climbing-el-caps-hardest-route http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_u3yQ-O8Mgws/TN4Iq95us6I/AAAAAAAAAbY/5IHehcIECVU/s1600/El%2BCap%2BLine.jpg
大戏开演, Here we go!
http://kjorgeson.blogspot.com/2010/11/here-we-go.html 等待明年的精彩大片
看他们的鞋像是Scarpa Thunder Womens Climbing Shoes：
http://gearx.com/scarpa-thunder-womens-climbing-shoes.html Tommy Caldwell wears TC Pro
not sure what Kevin Jorgerson wears on photos, but since he's sponsored by Five-Ten, It's probably a pair of prototype shoes,Looks like a variation of Anasazi Lace-up to me. 本帖最后由 zenith 于 2010-11-15 03:15 编辑
不是thunder,thunder是scarpa的入门鞋。scarpa基本不做高摩擦的大岩壁鞋。 KJ穿的是5.10的A lace-up blanco。 KJ一水的5.10，每次出镜鞋子都不一样
http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/tn/tn_51_101201_1260300141.jpg 谢ls两位
这下新鞋有目标了 谢ls两位
这下新鞋有目标了
天空wk3368 发表于 2010-11-15 21:46 http://bbs.rockbeer.org/images/common/back.gif
Hi, your big bros are delayed :( check my message on rocklizard bbs 回复 10# zenith
谢谢 已回复 Pitch 9 is done. Now the real business begins: 5.14b ish, 5.13d ish, 5.14b ish, 5.14c ish, 5.14c ish
less than a minute ago
Thanks for sharing your encouragement and psyche everyone. Keep it up. We appreciate it up here!
about 3 hours ago
Waiting out the sun to do pitch 9, 5.13c, sometime after 2pm.
about 8 hours ago
Becca (Tommy's wife) is blogging from the wall and throughout the push. Be sure to check in for more: http://tommyandbecca.blogspot.com/
about 10 hours ago
1:30am and calling it a night. Pitch 8 is in the bag. Great day.
about 17 hours ago
Getting ready to start working pitch 8: the boulder problem. Fingers, I apologize in advance for what I'm about to do to you...
about 20 hours ago
Instant coffee powder+mouth+water+swig=psyche
about 21 hours ago
What a fight. Three goes for me and four for Tommy to send pitch 7. Eating dinner then on to the sharp crimps of pitch 8!
about 22 hours ago
Pitch 7 is in the bag
about 22 hours ago
The shade is here. Tommy and I just traded lead burns on pitch 7. No luck yet but feels very close. Temps are only getting better.
3:54 PM Nov 14th
Just did pitch 6 in the nick of time as it went into the sun. What a relief. Gotta shake these nerves and relax!
8:08 AM Nov 14th
Day one is a wrap. Didn't get to pitches 7 and 8 today but plans are made to be altered....
10:47 PM Nov 13th
Great lead by Tommy on pitch 6 to finish just as it got dark. Putting on my headlamp and getting ready to follow.
5:27 PM Nov 13th
On top of pitch 5. It's a battle all the way. Slipped on 5 and had an exciting time it the wetness at the top. Pitch 6...
4:25 PM Nov 13th
Pitch 4 done. On to pitch 5
3:02 PM Nov 13th
Had an hour long battle with pitch 3. Finally did the delicate traverse crux third try and went to top. Onward.
2:01 PM Nov 13th
Pitch 1 done. TC slipped on pitch two. Gettin the jitters out. Headed back up.
2:00 PM Nov 13th
Pitch 2 done and followed. Starting pitch 3, 5.13d
2:00 PM Nov 13th
First pitch is wet. Giving it a fee to see if sun dries it out. Then blasting
8:36 AM Nov 13th
Hiking to the base
8:19 AM Nov 13th 原来Caldwell离了以后又结了 Day Seven...
"We just rapped down, Baby.We're on the ground."Tommy informs me as I pick up his late phone call last night.
"Why are you on the ground?"I reflexively respond, in a partially stern tone.He laughs with surprise at my comment, and let me know they came down, were hauling loads and needed to get out of the storm.He was going to be out of service for the night and we could chat tomorrow.
As some of you may have already heard, Tommy and Kevin had to call it last night and head off of El Cap, not completing their monster project in the "style" they had adopted (explained in Day One post).The storm was coming in big, and there was high uncertainty of how long it would take to even be able to climb again, and other factors as well.I have only gotten to talk to Tommy briefly about it, but he says he has peace with the decision and has not lost any psyche!Now they have a great idea of what needs to be done for next season to ensure a send and they can take some time to enjoy life and relax a little.It will be nice to be home for Thanksgiving and have some time to pack for Argentina...our next trip starting December 1st.
When Tommy gets home and winds down some, he will probably post something with a little more detail of the scenario and what happened.The guys are really appreciative of the encouragement from everyone.It was a great battle, but it's not done yet!! 开搞了. 凯文哥dyno伤了脚踝, 遗憾退出, 汤米哥只好带着老婆一起搞.
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/caldwell_starts_dawn_wall_push/
汤米哥的facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tommy-Caldwell/180070212030430?ref=ts&sk=wall
Think I'll take a rest day today. Looks like cooler temps are on the way. Good for grabbing razed blades.
3 hours ago
Day 2: made it through pitch 9!!!!!
16 hours ago
Finished pitch 6 and fell twice on 7 so far...in the portaledge with food in my belly. Back to pitch 7 at 6am!
Yesterday at 12:14am
Happy to have the single ledge right now. Time for a siesta.
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/391542_267258349978282_180070212030430_746984_1679478677_n.jpg
Hiding from the sun on top of pitch 5. Will start pitch 6 when the shades come! Going well so far.
Racking up for pitch 3! 1 & 2 complete!
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/314370_267241806646603_180070212030430_746942_1494595217_n.jpg
Tomorrow is the big day!! Plan is to start the push at 6am. Enjoying the ground today. 四条大线同时开工
El Capitan: Golden Gate, Freerider, the Prophet and Dawn Wall
News from El Capitan in Yosemite valley: Hazel Findlay on Golden Gate, Mayan Smith-Gobat on Free Rider, Sonnie Trotter on the Prophet and Tommy Caldwell attempting Dawn Wall.
Yosemite once again, for obvious reasons... Once again El Capitan in autumn proves irresistible and of all those who made the pilgrimage to Yosemite valley over the last few months, the following stand out:
Young British climber Hazel Findlay has repeated Golden Gate, the route freed in 2000 by Alexander and Thomas Huber. 41 pitches up to 5.13b, climbed free but as a second on some of the crux pitches, seeing that she had joined forces with Hansjörg Auer who was stumped only by the Monster Offwidth pitch and believes the routes' difficulties are more like 5.13a. Regardless of the difficulty, given Findlay's ability - she is famous for being the first woman to have broken into the fearsome E9 grade with her July repeat of Once Upon A Time in the South West - it wouldn't surprise us if the next time she ties in beneath El Capitan, she'll decide to lead it all herself...
A climber who led plenty of pitches in Mayan Smith-Gobat who, after having led all of the Salathé Wall at the start of October, recently decided to climb the route once again avoiding the crux pitches on the Headwall. Instead, she climbed via the 4-pitch variation on the left called Free Rider, another Huber creation which dates to 1998. The Kiwi climber set off at 10 minutes past midnight together with local Niels Tietze and topped out at 14.30 for 'the best 14 hours of incredible climbing in my life, on the most beautiful piece of rock ever!' The first female ascent of Free Rider was carried out by Steph Davis who after her April 2003 ascent returned a month later and, belayed by Heinz Zak, climbed the route in 22 hours and 15 minutes.
Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhorpe are currently active on The Prophet, the mega route established by Leo Houlding last year. Trotter confirmed the exposed and dangerous nature of the initial pitches and above all though he underlined the beauty of the crux pitch high up on the route, commenting "One of the best I have EVER seen."
Tommy Caldwell is continuing in his efforts to free the Dawn Wall, the massive project which, when finally freed, will no doubt herald a new level of difficulty in big wall climbing. Caldwell is not joined by habitual partner Kevin Jorgeson as Jorgeson injured his ankle during an attempt to stick that enormous, famous leftwards dyno featured in the video below. The doctor has ordered a month's rest and physio and Caldwell, who has been joined by his wife, has recently stuck the dyno and is eyeing the crux pitches looming overhead. Let's keep our fingers crossed that it doesn't begin to snow, like last year. 四条大线同时开工
El Capitan: Golden Gate, Freerider, the Prophet and Dawn Wall
News from El Capitan ...
riff 发表于 2011-11-1 12:30 http://bbs.rockbeer.org/images/common/back.gif
昨天看到凯文哥伤退，心想汤米哥的进程至少要慢1/3了。看今年暴风雪来临前会不会有奇迹。 tommy憔悴不少啊…… http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-110111
TC project:Tommy has climbed the first 9 all free thus far.I went down early this morning to get some shots of him on the 14a 10 pitch.He took a few falls on the pitch.Seems there is a seep that runs in the morning that is being troublesome for him.
He is planning on staying up for the storms and hoping they are cold ones with snow rather than rain.We wish him all the best!
Tommy off the climb.
http://www.elcapreport.com/sites/default/files/1%20tommy%20off%20project%203337.JPG Family Affair on the Dawn Wall
http://www.thecleanestline.com/2011/11/family-affair-on-the-dawn-wall.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+thecleanestline+%28The+Cleanest+Line%29&utm_content=Google+Reader
http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef0162fc12eba8970d-500wi from Tommy Caldwell's Facebook Wall:
Working on pitch 10 this morning. Hoping to send tonight!
Feels crazy up here with this 40 mph up draft tonight. I hope it blows me right up this pitch. 7 tries so far on pitch 10!!! Grrrrrr.
No send tonight. But the craziness of the situation struck me. Trying to climb 5.14 by headlamp during a super Intense wind storm. Strangely invigorating. I love the experience but am still overwhelmed by the magnitude of this project. Battling with pitch 12. This one was my high point last year. Just gave it a really good burn. Photo by Josh Lowell.
第12段搞定了 Day 14 On the wall. It's raining, and my fingers are thoroughly thrashed. Dad went down this morning. I am going to take two days off to see if I can get some skin to grow back. Then give pitch 13 another try. Thanks goes out to all the people that have helped me. I am going to try as hard as I can at least one last time.
from Big UP Productions's Facebook Wall:
Feeling a little guilty for leaving Tommy alone up there for two full rest days. Back in action Sunday... Its feeling a little like home.
翻译的实时跟踪:
http://www.rock-lizard.org/bbs/forum-viewthread-tid-7676-highlight.html 绰特哥重复"先知“
Trotter Makes Prophet's (5.13d R) Second Ascent
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/trotter_makes_prophets_513d_r_second_ascent/
trotter sums up his experience: "5 weeks in the Valley, 5 failed ground up attempts, 4 days in Lake Tahoe, 2 days in Santa Cruz, and over 25 days climbing, hiking, rappelling, hauling and slogging. El Cap is a glorious son of a bitch—that’s a fact. And The Prophet is one of the richest, most deeply rooted climbing experiences I have ever had, with a partner who’s got both a boyish charm, a man’s ambition, and a spirit that’s tougher than leather. It was more like an expedition than a climbing trip." 前人10年，后人1个月。
"A first ascent on El Capitan is, in my eyes, the ultimate achievement," Houlding says in a radio interview with former BBC Radio producer Lissa Cook. 今年搞不定, 明年再来. 没有凯文哥还是差点意思.
Caldwell Leaves Dawn Wall, Looks to Next Year
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/caldwell_leaves_dawn_wall_looks_to_next_year/
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/Tommy-C-Pitch-13-Battle-375.jpg 加油Tommy哥, 我看好你!
http://www.thecleanestline.com/2011/11/recap-on-el-cap-kicked-my-butt-again.html
The sun sat high in the sky as I drove through the red sculpted walls of the San Rafael Swell. I pondered the motivations for taking on such a project. In so many ways, free-climbing El Cap seems absurd and contrived. But it drives me in a way that I love, satisfying a deep-rooted curiosity. A need to explore not only what I see, but who I am. I choose to immerse myself in this project again and again because it stretches my imagination and reminds me that I am capable of much more that I am usually aware of. It would be empty without the allure of success. But it doesn’t always end that way. At least for now.
http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef015393779953970b-500wi 我可以把下巴见起来装好了 houding的先知前后十年，在el cap留下路线不但是身体的历程，还是心理的旅行。加油！ 新一轮的冲击开始.
招募了一个新队员Jonathan Siegrist, 爬过好几条9a. 来过阳朔, 曾有一面之缘.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/images/Jonathan-Siegrist-06%281%29.jpg 两段以往攀登视频, vimeo上的
http://player.vimeo.com/video/10183589
http://player.vimeo.com/video/10181825 三剑客取得了不小的进展:
planetmountain.com
http://www.planetmountain.com/img/1/14910.jpg 估计也快打成运动攀了 本帖最后由 w2 于 2013-10-2 09:25 编辑
http://www.climbing.com/news/sharma-joins-dawn-wall-team/
大买卖又要开始了，这次Sharma也参加。;P
Yosemite National Park Reopens to Visitors
Yosemite National Park reopens to park visitors tonight, October 16, 2013. Visitors can access public areas and roads immediately while facilities and other public services are brought back on-line. Yosemite National Park has been closed since October 1, 2013 due to the government shutdown. Tommy Caldwell Hurt on the Dawn Wall:http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tommy-caldwell-hurt-on-the-dawn-wall
看来买卖得下次请早了。。。，第七个年头了，真心必须继续跟进。 今年可惜了，本来很有看头。 回复 41# wei
不过听闻KJ要单干，现在还在墙上呢。。。。 http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNjQ0NjA3OTQw.html http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNjQ0NjA5NDE2.html 43楼中的 type 3 fun: 第三类乐趣：不管目标有多有趣，怎么说也是受罪 :lol
第二类乐趣：过程中受罪，回想时很有乐趣
第一类乐趣：不受罪 接着直播：
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNjQ2NzEzMzQ4.html
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNjQ2NzEzOTE2.html 再来！
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNjQ3MTMxNjY0.html http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNjQ5Mjc0OTQw.html http://www.climbing.com/news/caldwell-redpoints-514d-pitch-dawn-wall/
汤米红点了第十五段，5.14d！！！！ http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNjUwNjE5MDk2.html