冰镐的脐带
上个冰季我自制了脐带，使用后发现问题，反思后改进，这里是改进型（照片稍候再上）。要点：
1。脐带不能太结实，也不用太结实。所以用帐杆皮筋，有弹性。
2。要摘脱方便。
3。要防止缠绕，所以加上Swivel,可以转来转去，不缠。 照片在此 2mm的辅绳系在握柄上，绳细不硌手。白色的是3mm粗的帐杆用皮筋，有弹性也耐用。Swivel (snap hook)的一头用皮筋系在腰带上。皮筋的一头有个小环，套在Swivel的能开启的另一头。
皮筋的另一头打渔夫结，与2mm的辅绳用girth hitch 或者 clove hitch 连接。 特别说明，这个脐带不是，也不应该是常用之物。我上个月连爬了五天，只有一天用了脐带。在最难的那条多段长线上用了。第一段是65米斜上切（频繁换手），第二段还行，第三段是薄的硬冰和烂菜花。这种情况不容许掉镐。
有朋友指出用脐带有孛无腕带的初衷，我98%同意。 白色的皮筋和安全带相连 在坠落的时候吃力会不会造成安全带的磨损啊？ 天空wk3368 在 2007年12月17日 17:09:07 说道:
白色的皮筋和安全带相连 在坠落的时候吃力会不会造成安全带的磨损啊？
冰镐坠落产生的冲力不会大于10公斤。一年顶多这么用3－4次，磨损微乎。 我是说：镐打进冰里，然后人掉了 手也没有抓住冰镐 这时就是白色皮筋和安全带相连吊着人了！ 哈哈哈......乐死我了，这个发明太逗了。 天空wk3368 在 2007年12月18日 10:37:00 说道:
我是说：镐打进冰里，然后人掉了 手也没有抓住冰镐 这时就是白色皮筋和安全带相连吊着人了！掉人和掉镐比起来，概率可能更微乎其微吧？ Colin Haley
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/alpine/colin-haley-alpinism-hardware-part-two
"...Although at first a skeptic, I have come to believe that wrist leashes truly are a thing of the past and should not be used. This has nothing to do with style, but rather I think it is easier and more efficient to climb without wrist leashes. It is easier to shake out your forearms, faster to place protection, and often requires fewer tool placements. Dropping a tool is not an option on big routes, however, so it is best to use umbilical cords attached to your tools. In fact, you are much less likely to drop a tool using umbilicals than using wrist leashes. Umbilical cords are ideally elasticized so that they don’t hang so low and catch on gear, and should be made of material that won’t ice up really bad. Avoid any systems that require girth hitching your belay loop or tying knots to your tools. It is best for the umbilicals to attach to your belay loop using a biner so that you can quickly unclip them from your belay loop and clip them into the anchor at belays. It is best for the umbilicals to attach to your tools using mini biners so that you can quickly switch between having them clipped to the spike or the head of the tool (clip them to the head of the tool for low-angle terrain). Attaching a swivel to the harness-end of your umbilicals is a big help for reducing tangle when repeatedly switching tools from hand to hand. The most appropriate swivels, which are strong and light, can be found at commercial fishing supply stores." 天空wk3368 在 2007年12月18日 10:37:00 说道:
我是说：镐打进冰里，然后人掉了 手也没有抓住冰镐 这时就是白色皮筋和安全带相连吊着人了！
Leader shall never fall.您要是担心人会掉，趁早回头。
最近Ueli Steck solo了Matthorn北壁，用的是带脐带的Nomic。 脐带！名字太好玩了！ 看到过很多攀登者都用这个，一般人都使用现成的挽索。 BD spinner leash
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/technical-ice-tools/spinner-leash
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