自由的风 发表于 2003-10-31 16:27

花皮瓜:裂缝小河进来,问个问题

裂缝小河进来,问个问题
看了,那个东东确实不错,不过 Gaston是什么动作?我没看明白,是说的脚还是手?
本贴由花皮瓜于2003年8月13日17:20:29在〖岩与酒〗发表.

注意他左手的手型 [图]
其实也不神秘,换成右手就是一个侧拉。
A gaston is any vertical hold that you grab with your thumb facing down. The move is named after a French climber who had a famous photo taken of him in this position.

When you first grab a hold this way, it feels impossible to pull on because it is. You have to push outwards on it, rather than pull. If your feet are underneath you and the gaston is over your head, you won't be able to generate any push on the hold. You need to get your opposite foot up high so your left pushes you into the gaston, and your arm keeps you locked into the wall while your hips move upwards. This is a very shoulder-intensive move, so be careful at first.

本贴由裂缝于2003年8月14日00:35:17在〖岩与酒〗发表.
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