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攀爬训练:如何通过单纯的攀爬提高攀爬能力

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2018-3-10 21:08


Jonathan Siegrist: Climb to Train—How to Improve by Simply Climbing
Jonathan Siegrist:攀爬训练-如何通过单纯的攀爬提高攀爬能力

The most effective way to improve your climbing is to simply climb.
最有效的提高攀爬能力的方式是进行低难度的攀爬。

At age 32, after 13 years of climbing, I’ve seen things change. When I started, there were only a few bouldering gyms in the country, chalk was just chalk, and 5.13 was considered hard. One change I’ve noticed recently is a widespread enthusiasm for training. Climbers often ask me, “What’s the fastest way to reach double-digit boulders or 5.14? What’s the secret!?” They expect that some savage hangboarding, heavy lifting, or campus routine is the singular key. But my suggestions tend to be simple: Go climbing often, try hard, and take the long view.

如今我已经32岁了,我攀岩已经到了第13个年头,我对事物的看法有了很多改变。当我开始攀岩时,国内只有很少的几家抱石馆,那里到处都弥漫着粉尘。那时5.13依然是公认很难的线路。最近我注意到人们对于训练的热情高涨。岩友经常问我“最快达到抱石两位数难度或5.14难度的训练方法或秘诀是什么?”他们通常会认为是残忍的指力板,高负荷的引体或是那些惯例的训练项目。但是我的建议却十分简单:经常攀岩,尽力去攀爬,放长线钓大鱼。

While nobody wants to hear that it can take years to reach the top grades, a slow, measured approach is the most reliable way to improve. Climbing hard requires strength, but of equal importance is skill. Careful footwork, efficient movement, and proper cadence take years of practice to develop—there are no shortcuts. Plus, pumping iron will never help you develop the mental and logistical aspects. I frequently see people who have the strength to succeed but lack patience or the mental ability to metabolize disappointment. Give yourself the opportunity over a handful of seasons to improve steadily, and accept failure as part of the process.

然而没人愿意听到需要数年才能达到最高的难度,但是循序渐进,有计划的训练才是最稳妥的提高之计。高难度的线路需要力量,同时也需要技巧。精确的脚法,高效的动作,经过数年稳妥的训练节奏能有效提高攀爬能力,这是没有捷径的。此外,举重式的健美训练可不能帮助你提高攀岩的心理和思考能力。我经常见到岩友有足够的力量完成路线,但是缺乏耐心或接受失败时的心理承受力。给自己一个心理的准备,要在几个攀爬季中稳步的提高,并且让失败成为自己进步的一部分。

Climb Often
Climb several times a week, even if it’s just short gym sessions. Very few activities target the forearms as intensively as climbing, so when you take long breaks or climb irregularly, any progress will fade disappointingly fast. Taking a week or two off occasionally is fine, but be as consistent as possible, especially for the first several years as you build your base.

经常攀岩
每周进行数次攀爬训练,即使是很短时间的训练。每次攀爬尽量让前臂保持很大的运动量,如果你长时间不爬,进步会很快丧失。每周保持一次或两次攀爬就很好,当然越多频率的攀爬越好,特别是你在打基础的前几年里。

Try Hard
This is the No. 1 rule. If you want to improve, try hard. This means climbing routes or boulders that challenge you, requiring 100 percent effort in the moment. The body will adapt to the stimulus you give it, and thus, if you persistently try the same difficulty of climbs, you will never improve. As a rule of thumb, if you fire everything in two or fewer attempts, you are not trying hard enough to stimulate progress. Try-hard flash or onsight attempts also help, but as I outline below, repeatedly trying a project works best because of the increased level of engagement.

尝试更难的路线
这是首要的原则。如果你想进步,就得尝试更难的路线。这意味着你需要挑战更难的路线或抱石,需要100%的努力。你的身体也会随着你的挑战变得更强。所以如果你总是攀爬相同难度的路线,你永远也不能进步。更难的路线并不是你能够在尝试一两次后就能拿下的,这些难度不足以刺激你的前进。尝试flash或onsight,就像我下面要讲到的,反复磕线最好,这才能真正提高水平。

Swap Disciplines
When you reach a mini-plateau, swap climbing disciplines (trad, sport, bouldering) to renew the stoke. This also creates an opportunity for strength acquisition and to learn new techniques. Likewise, if you’re mostly climbing indoors, get outside for several weekends and vice versa. Done all the routes at your redpoint limit in the gym? Hit up another gym for new angles and setting styles, or ditch the harness for a month and boulder. Hitting a trad slump? Clip bolts. Adding the head game needed for trad climbing, the endurance for sport climbing, and the raw power for bouldering to your climbing résumé will help across all the disciplines.

改变攀爬环境
当你达到一个级别时,改变你的攀爬环境(传统,运动,抱石)促进你的进步。这也是一个提高力量和学习新技术的机会。就像如果你经常在室内攀爬,那么你可以在周末去野外攀爬,反之亦然。你是否能以红点能力完成岩馆所有的路线?或去其他岩馆完成了新的风格线路或脱掉安全带去抱石?攀爬了传统路线?设置保护点,在传统攀爬中学会思考,保持运动攀的耐力,还有抱石需要的那种更为纯粹的力量,这些都能帮助你在不同的环境下取得进步。

Swap Rock Types
One of my primary suggestions to aspiring climbers is to explore new areas and rock types. Different rock provides unique challenges for footwork, sequencing, and body positions. One of my original goals was to climb 5.14 on granite, limestone, sandstone, and volcanic rock, which I achieved some years into my career. This kind of variety benefits both strength and technique, allowing you to try new movements and grab a wide variety of holds.

改变岩壁类型
对于那些渴望攀爬的岩友来说,我的一个建议是去更多新的地方攀爬,体验不同的岩壁。不同的岩壁能对脚法,攀爬方式,身体的姿势等带来不同的挑战。我曾经的目标是能够完成花岗岩,石灰岩,砂岩和火山岩的5.14的路线,其中有一些已经在我的职业生涯中完成了。这些不同类型的岩壁能在力量和技术上让你得到提高,让你体验到新的姿势和不同的手点。

Find a Project
One of the best ways to see progress is to try a challenging project—ideally something that inspires you. Projecting illuminates one’s strengths and weaknesses. Particularly good at roof climbing, but horrible on slabs? Seek out a handful of slab projects to round out your skills, and save the roof routes for when you need cheering up from the slab beatdown. It’s motivating to see hard climbs come together. Patience is the key here: Don’t expect to do all the moves on your first go, and remind yourself that if you’re trying hard, anchors or not, you are improving!

制定一个计划
取得进步最好的办法之一是制定一个能够鼓舞自己的挑战计划。这能够反映出你的实力和弱点。比如如果你在屋檐地形下很出色,却很害怕大平板。那就找一些平板的路线去提高相应的能力,保留一些屋檐路线,等你在大平板上灰心丧气时再去屋檐找回一些自信。当然看着别人完成高难度的路线也是件鼓舞人心的事。一定要有耐心:不要想着在开始时就能完成所有的动作,提醒自己只要你尽力去完成,不管是否完攀,你都在进步!

Feeling Stagnant?
Maybe it's time to train
觉得停滞不前?
也许是需要专门训练了

While climbing to improve is fun and effective, it also has its limits. If you’ve been climbing for at least five years and are seeing your progress stagnate for a year or more, I’d suggest systematic training.

当然,通过日常攀爬来提高是有效且愉快的,但也有它的局限性。如果你已经攀岩超过了五年,并且在接下来一年里停滞不前,我建议你进行系统化的训练。
5个训练建议的相关链接:
https://www.climbing.com/skills/ ... -climbing-training/

I steadily improved by following the five tips above until I didn’t see improvement for about four years, at which point I knew I needed something more—and so I headed to the gym and got scientific, which has also paid off.

我通过以上的5个训练建议得到了稳步的提高,直到我在接下来的四年里没有继续提高为止,我开始意识到我需要新的训练方法了-所以我去岩馆,进行更科学化的训练,并且取得了效果。

With seven 5.15s to his name, Jonathan Siegrist believes that his foundation of climbing on rock led to his later successes through systematic training.
在拿下7个5.15难度的线路后,Jonathan Siegrist认为正是通过系统化的训练使得他的取了日后的成功。

翻译/墩儿

Think Simulation
回复 4# rocktor


    你翻译的应该更准确,simply的意思除了简单的之外还有 仅仅 的意思。

这里应该是仅仅只需要去攀爬的意思。

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born from the simulation
The most effective way to improve your climbing is to simply climb.
最有效的提高攀爬能力的方式是进行低难度的攀爬。

这句话意思应该是 最有效的提高攀爬能力的方式就是攀爬。

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多爬不同类型的线路才是正道!

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