返回列表 发帖
白河攀岩基金

在攀登中如何保持冷静?

How to Keep Your Cool on a Challenging Climb
在攀登中如何保持冷静

Climbing near your limit can be stressful. Desperate moves, risk of falling, and the uncertainty of what’s next can foster unproductive thoughts and physical tension that snowballs at a rapid rate. Left unchecked, such rising tension will cause you to pump out and quite likely fall. Even expert climbers occasionally experience rising tension while ascending a severe route, however they are masters at controlling tension on the fly. Similarly, your goal should be to develop such awareness and control over rising tension. Here are two strategies for regaining control in the midst of a difficult route.
接近自己能力极限的攀登的确会带来很大的压力。线路本身的难度,冲坠的风险以及接下来的不可预见性都会为攀登者带来心理上负面的想法和生理上的紧张,这样的状态一旦出现就会像滚雪球的速度一样般愈演愈烈。如果不再加以控制,听之任之的话,这种紧张的情绪和身体就会立刻导致全盘崩溃直至冲坠。即使是经验丰的攀登者偶尔也会在攻克难度极大的线路时遇到这样的情况,但他们的不同就在于能在负面情绪或者说慌乱来临时控制自己,保持冷静。同样地,我们也应该有这样的意识,训练自己在不断聚积的压力下保持冷静。在这里,我们为大家总结了两条在高难度线路上保持冷静的建议供参考:

Focus on breath control
控制自己的呼吸


Deep, steady breathing is the number one antidote to tension. Not surprisingly, then, the common tendency to breath shallowly—and sometimes even hold your breath—on a difficult or scary sequence is a prime cause of tension. While it’s  sometimes beneficial to hold a deep breath for a single powerful move (that requires core tension or a “bearing down”), it’s often difficult to return to a steady rhythm of breathing. By being aware of this tendency, however, you can take conscious control of your breathing during stressful times on a route. Strive for slow, deep belly breaths during the moves leading up to a crux, and try to regain steady breathing as you move out of the most difficult moves. This strategy alone will go a long way toward controlling tension as you climb.
保持有节奏,平稳的深呼吸是控制紧张情绪的关键。我们可以试着想象一下,当我们在攀登难度等级很高的线路时,如果一直保持急促的短呼吸,或者甚至屏住呼吸时会发生什么?的确,有时在经过一处很难的点时(在需要使用躯干发力或对抗下坠力时),需要深吸一口气并屏住才能更好地通过。但这样做的一个弊端就是在接下来的动作中很难再恢复先前的呼吸节奏。在分析了这种情况后,我们就可以有意识地在高难度线路上控制自己的呼吸。努力在到达线路最难的部分前使用腹式深呼吸,在通过难点后接下来的路段使用有节奏的平稳呼吸。这种呼吸方法能很好地帮助我们在攀岩时控制紧张的情绪。

Before you start up a route, try to predetermine the location of all rest stances and clipping positions. These spots should offer you the opportunity to take a moment to steady your breathing. Upon reaching one of these spots, close your eyes for a moment and turn your thoughts inward to feel air filling your lungs with each slow breath. As you exhale, visualize the tension exiting your body and feel a renewed sense of being centered. This entire process might only take five to fifteen seconds, but it’s invaluable for regaining an optimal state for attacking the next section of the climb. Make it a habit to steady your breathing at every rest.
在开始攀登一条线路前,试着在岩壁下方观察并记住所有可能使用的休息点和姿势以及扣入快挂的姿势。这样的预处理不仅能有效地帮助我们熟悉线路,而且还能为我们提供调整呼吸的机会。在快到达一处类似的点时,闭上眼睛,想象每一下吸气都是清爽的空气和我们身体的亲密接触。而当我们呼气时,想象所有的紧张和焦虑都被带出体内,身体重新充满活力。这样的呼吸过程大概会维持五到十五秒。但如果只是为了攻破接下来的路段而临时这么做一两次,结果会毫无意义。正确的方式是在整条线路的攀登中,每一次休息时都调整自己,保持平稳,有节奏的呼吸。

Keep your thoughts productive and goal-oriented
保持积极的心态


Doubtful, fearful thinking is an on-sight or redpoint terminator. You simply can’t climb well with the weight of these negative thoughts in tow. Once again, you need to seize every stopping point on a route as an opportunity to tune into your internal self-talk. Is it productive or unproductive in nature? Quickly evaluate any fears to determine if they are legitimate or just phantom fears trying to scare you off the route. In sport climbing, most fears are fraudulent, and if this is indeed the case, you must write them off as illusions and then redirect your attention onto your goal—sending the route!
怀疑和恐惧的心态无疑是on-sight和红点的终结者。带着这样的心态攀登是绝对不可能得到任何提高的。正如我们之前谈到的,在开始攀登一条线路前,可以先在岩壁下方观察好所有可能用于休息的点,这些地方既可以作为休息点,也能为调整呼吸以及与自己内心对话提供机会。自己的内心此刻是积极的还是消极的?迅速判断缠扰你的究竟是真实的恐惧还是只是那些虚无缥缈,心理上的消极情绪。在运动攀岩中,绝大多数恐惧都具有欺骗性,如果你也正在岩壁上也被这样的恐惧所欺骗的话,将它们的行为记下就好,作为以后的借鉴,然后全力以赴回到岩壁上,完成目标!

The popular sports metaphor “keep your eye on the ball” is appropriate here. Resist the tendency to doubt your abilities or ponder the fall potential, and simply narrow your focus onto the next section of climb. It’s best to attack a route one chunk at a time. Concentrate on the moves up to the next rest and forget about what’s below you as well as what’s yet to come above the next chunk. If your only goal is climbing the 6 feet (or whatever) to the next rest position, the burden is greatly reduced and a major cause of tension is erased.
时刻保持对欺骗性恐惧感的警惕性,不要让自己陷入到自我怀疑的情绪以及不停地担心冲坠的焦虑中,将自己的关注点只放在岩壁上,放在下一处手点和脚点上。最理想的做法是在线路上保持流畅的攀登,关注下一处休息点前的动作,忘掉对下方以及上方那些未知地段的恐惧。如果离下一处休息点只有不到两米的距离时,你肯定能轻易地释放积聚的压力,所有的焦虑也都会一扫而光。

原文链接
http://www.nicros.com/training/a ... -challenging-climb/

翻译/土豆

仅供分享阅读,任何形式的转载,请联系原作者及译者

返回列表