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原著者:Eric J. Hörst
翻译:铁马山社OB 柯惠平校稿:铁马山社 山友 洪妍佩

The quickest way to enhance your performance in almost anything is to improve the quality of your thinking. This is definitely true in climbing whether you're working a high-ball boulder problem, sport route, multi-pitch traditional line, or alpine route. All performance operates from the inside-out--your beliefs, focus, emotions, and confidence form the foundation from which you will either succeed or fail.
对大部份的事情而言,最快增加你表现的方式去,是加强你的思考品质。对攀岩而言也是如此,不论你是在练习抱石攀岩、运动攀登、多绳距传统攀登或阿尔卑斯式攀登。所有的成绩表现都是由内而外的 - 你的信念、专注、情绪及信心都是决定你成功或失败的基础。
While off-season strength training and year-round technique training are paramount for progressing into the higher grades, during the climbing season your biggest breakthroughs will come from toning and flexing your mental muscle. To this end, I have outlined below six mental strategies and skills that will help elevate your performance and enjoyment.
Practice them with the same dedication and resolve as you would a new strength training program, and you'll be pleasantly surprised with the results. Obtain the greatest payoff by applying these skills all the time, not just when you feel like it. For some, an almost instant breakthrough will follow on the rock, while others will need to persist and let these mental skills build to a critical value before they will produce a noticeable impact in your climbing. (This depends upon the current degree of "tone" or "atrophy" of your mental muscle.")
Recognize that these six mental training skills are interlaced and can produce a powerful synergy when all are in practice. In aggregate, they may produce an effect similar to unloading a 10-pound weight from your back that you have unknowingly been hauling up climbs. I call this using your "mental wings."
1. Separate your self-image from your performance.
If you are reading this magazine, then climbing surely plays a major role in your life. Unfortunately, when your self-image is tied too strongly or singly to this role, it translates to an overwhelming need to perform perfectly every time in order to prove your worth in that role and, thus, as a person. The subsequent pressure can become stifling and is maybe the single greatest cause of frustration in this sport (or in any endeavor).
Human beings perform best in a process-oriented, not outcome-oriented, frame of mind. Detaching your self-image from your climbing performance allows you to enjoy climbing regardless of the outcome. More importantly, it liberates you to try new things, take chances or, say, throw a dyno that might be required to get through a crux sequence. Bottom line: self-image detachment will reduce pressure and anxiety and, paradoxically, you'll climb better by not needing to!
1. 将你的自我印像(认知)与你的表现分离
如果你正在读这本杂志,那么攀岩在你的生活中一定扮演了重要的角色。不幸的是,当你过分重视或只重视自己在这角色,所呈现出的形象,这将转变成极大压力,使你在任何时间都必须有完美的表现,来证明你在这角色中的价值,甚至是你个人的价。这随之而来的压力会令人难以忍受,或许也会造成你在攀岩中最大挫折的来源 (甚至是对任何事)。
2. Surround yourself with positive people.
There is an aura or influence that surrounds each of us and its effects are based on our personality and attitude towards life and its events. Your thoughts and actions will affect the thoughts and actions of those around you, and vice versa. As I see it, there are three options-either climb alone, climb with upbeat and positive people, or climb with cynical and negative people. Why would you ever want to climb with the "complainers" out there? Their negative aura impacts your climbing and enjoyment whether you recognize it or not. Vow to either climb with positive individuals or by yourself-both can be hugely rewarding. However, if pushing your limits is the goal du jour, then take advantage of the synergy afforded to you by having creative, motivating and positive people on your side.
2. 多与心态正面的人相处在一起
有一种气息或影响力围绕着我们每一个人,它也影响着我们的人格和面对生活及问题的态度。你的想法及行动将影响你周围人的想法及行动,反过来说也是如此。正如我所看到的,这有三个选择,独攀、与正面乐观的人一起攀登或与负面悲观的人一起。你怎么可能会想要去跟爱抱怨的人一起攀登呢? 他们的负面态度,将会影响你攀登的乐趣与表现,不管你是否有注意到。要求自己在攀登时与正面思想的人在一起或自己也成俱正面思想的人,这将带给你极大的帮助。不论如何,如果推到极限是你的当前的目标,那么请藉由群体合作方式,使你有一群具有创造力、有活力、及正面思想的人在身边!

3. Stretch your comfort zone.
To improve in anything, your goals must exceed your current grasp and you must be willing to push beyond your comfort zone in your reach. In performing on the vertical plain, this means climbing onward despite mental and physical discomfort; it means challenging your fears head on by doing what you fear; it means attempting what looks impossible to you through your current set of "glasses." Through this process, you stretch the envelope to a new dimension and reshape your personal vision of what is possible.
3. 扩展你的适应
4. Assess and proactively manage your risk.
Climbing is an activity with obvious inherent risks, and the desire to climb harder requires taking additional risks. These risks can come in the form of obvious physical danger such as a potentially injurious fall or as invisible mental risks like opening yourself up to failure, criticism and embarrassment. It's interesting to note that for some climbers the physical danger feels more benign than the aforementioned mental dangers. Consider the climber who continues upward on a horrendously dangerous route he's not prepared for because he's afraid of being dissed by those standing safely on the ground!
Make it your goal to always assess the range of possible risks before you ever start a climb. By objectively analyzing the risks ahead of time, you'll often be able to lower the risk of the climb (e.g. taking other gear or rigging a belay differently than you normally would) and, at the least, be aware and able to respond to the most critical risks as you climb.
5. Fortify your confidence.
Your degree of self-confidence is primarily based on your self-image and the thoughts you hold minute-by-minute and day-by-day. Thoughts of falls or poor performance in the past and self-talk loaded with words like "I can't", "don't", "possibly", and "try", lower confidence and are the seeds of failure. Conversely, focusing on past successes by actually visualizing and feeling the process and exhilaration of positive action leads to tremendous feelings of confidence. Using visualization throughout the day, everyday, to re-live great events in your past--climbing and non-climbing--is the best way to reshape and fortify your self-confidence for success in all future endeavors.
5. 巩固你的自信
6. Be happy regardless of situations and outcomes.
Superior traits of all real winners is resilience to bad results and/or criticism, and unwavering belief that success will come with time, effort and patience. Attitude is the wild card in the "climbing performance equation" that can often compensate for what you are lacking in strength, technique or reach. I can't understate the importance of always having fun. We all get into climbing because we love the outdoor experience and the feeling of moving over stone, yet in time far too many climbers become Grinches (spoilsports) who have fun only when they are winning.
6. 保有快乐不去在意你的现况及攀登结果
The biggest secret for better climbing is to love climbing unconditionally. Vow that any day of climbing is a great day regardless of the results, and you will usually get the results you desire.
In my 25 years as a climber, perhaps the biggest breakthrough occurred when I realized that almost all the mental skills and strategies I learned through climbing could be applied to other areas in my life. (Read the first line of the 6 tips above--don't they all apply equally well to your non-climbing life?) I believe the process of climbing reveals the ultimate metaphors for life and, if you transfer the many lessons and mental skills to other areas of your life, you'll ignite breakthroughs there as well. I wish you the best on the rock and in your pursuit of your own personal Mount Everest!
在我25年的攀岩者生涯中,最大的收获是,我经由学习攀岩体会到的心智技巧及策略,能将其经验应用在生活之中其他的领域。(阅读先前的六项技巧 – 他们不是同样可以用在非攀岩的环境之下吗?)我相信,攀岩过程展现隐藏在生命中的潜力,同时如果你转换你的训练方式及心智技巧,在你生活中的其他领域,你将获得更大的突破。但愿你在岩壁上有最好的表现同时攀登上你个人心中的圣母峰。