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标题: 【翻译】如何爬到V10(或其他任何级别) [打印本页]

作者: 超然    时间: 2018-3-14 16:39     标题: 【翻译】如何爬到V10(或其他任何级别)

原文地址:

https://www.therockandwall.com/b ... ade-for-that-matter

TIPS ON HOW TO CLIMB V10. (OR ANY GRADE FOR THAT MATTER...

作者:Thomasina Pidgeon

加拿大女攀岩者,完成过超过40条V11、V12野外抱石线路。

For over a decade, my life has been weaving in and out of a nomadic lifestyle whose main purpose was to follow a blue colored sky and a shining sun overlooking a field of boulders. Living such a life entwined with climbing has given me many invaluable experiences not only about the sport but also life lessons about myself and the world. I often wondered how I could say thank you to a sport and way of living that has given me so much. So far, this is what I have come up with.
This is my first article of what may hopefully, be many. I hope people find this useful and if anyone has any questions they may like answered I will do what I can.

十多年来,我一直过着一种流浪的生活方式,只为追寻蓝色的天空,明媚的阳光,以及爬到抱石的顶端俯瞰远方。这种投入攀岩的生活,给了我很多宝贵的经历,不仅仅是这项运动本身,也是对自己和世界的认知。我常常想该如何表达我对这项运动的感谢,以及攀岩生活给我带来的如此多的体验。到目前为止,这些就是我想说的。
这是我的第一篇文章带着我的很多期许。我希望这篇文章对读者有所帮助,如果你有任何问题想要得到我的答复,我将尽我所能回答你。

This one is for Krystal who inspired it.

V10. What is that? It is a number signifying the level of difficulty of a boulder problem but it is also more than that. It's a breaking point. A level perhaps not yet reached but knowingly, attainable. But how can one reach this exactly? What skills and mindsets are needed that will enable people to reach their next level be in v5, v10 or v13? Below are some tips which I have gathered which have helped me and others push through plateaus and reach the next level.

V10,那是什么?一个象征着高难度级别抱石线路的数字,但是不止于此,这是一个突破点。或许是一个你从来没达到过的级别,但仍然是可能的。可是该如何正确的到达这个级别呢?需要什么样的技巧和心态可以让我们到达下一个级别V5、V10或者V13呢?下面这些就是我收集到的帮助我和其他人突破瓶颈到达下一个级别的要点。

ADD VARIETY TO YOUR WORLD
Try many problems, easy and hard, regardless of the grade, regardless of the style. This way you get exposure and experience on many different holds and styles that will help you breakthrough to the next level.

It helps to travel to places so you can widen your base and abilities even more. If you can't travel then be sure to try those obscure problems and lines that perhaps have overgrown or that you promised you will 'one day' try. If you are stuck in the gym, make up problems that are your anti style or that play on your weaknesses.
The only way to climb v10 is to try v10. So be sure to try a lot of them but avoid limiting yourself to trying JUST v10's. The world is your oyster and every problem can teach you something.
Climb with different people. Everyone has different climbing styles, abilities and something to offer. Climb with people who inspire and can teach. Be open to healthy criticism; be willing to learn and to hear what you may not want.
If what you have been doing isn't working, change something. Step out of the normal routine; go to different problems, areas, gyms. Hell, even try a different mode of climbing like clipping bolts!

丰富你的攀岩类型

尝试各种线路,不管是难线还是简单线,忽略级别,忽略风格。用这种方法来暴露弱点从不同种类的岩点和不同的风格中获取经验,这将会使你获得突破并进入下一个级别。

旅行攀岩能夯实你的基础和能力。如果你不能去各地攀岩,那么一定要多爬那些让你头疼的(这个翻译让我很头疼)抱石和线路,这有可能让你获得成长,也许你会暗下决心有一天来完成它。如果你是混攀岩馆的,多爬那些你不擅长的风格路线补足自己的弱项。

唯一能让你爬上V10的方法只有一个,那就是去尝试V10的线路。所以要多去攀爬但是不要限制自己只爬V10的线路。每一条线路都可以让你学到一些东西。

和不同的人一起攀爬,每个人都有不同的攀爬风格、能力,能教你一些东西。开放善意的批评,乐于学习,听取那些你可能不喜欢听的建议。如果你做出了努力但没有什么进步,尝试做一些改变,跳出常规,去爬不同的线路,去不同的岩区、岩馆。甚至不同的攀岩类型,比如运动攀。

DON'T LIMIT YOURSELF
Self-limiting thoughts get you nowhere. As does not trying something because it is 'too hard'. If a line entices you whether it is v0 or v13, then try it.

You have the power to make or break your own limitations but the limitations that others put on you be it friend or foe is none of your business. Try to not let the negative influences of others bother you.
Too often people limit themselves to the problems that suit only their strengths. Avoid doing this by working your weaknesses and widen your base by opening up your world to the world of slabs, slopers, pinches, crimps, roofs, etc. Eventually, improvement will come so just be patient.
Often people ask the grade of a problem before trying it which can be limiting. When the answer comes around, some won't try because they think it is too hard but there are also the folks who won't try because they think it is "too easy". Try everything!

Imagine the possibilities!

不要自我设限

自我设限无处不在,这会让你不敢去爬“太难”的线路。但是如果一条线路吸引着你,那么就应该去试一试,别管它是V0还是V13。

你有能力制造和打破自身的局限性,但是其他人加在你身上的局限性和你无关,无论对方是朋友还是对手。尝试不要让负面影响困扰自己。

人们常常被自己限制在自己的优势上。训练自己的弱项来阻止这种情况,扩充自己的基础,无论是slab面,open点,pinch点,crimp小点,屋檐还是其他的。总之,进步迟早会发生,要保持耐心。

人们常常在尝试之前先询问线路难度级别,这一点限制了我们。当我们得到回答后,一些人会因为线路太难而不愿尝试,同样也有一些人因为线路太简单而不愿去爬。正确的做法是尝试一切!

想象完攀的可能性!

FIND OUT YOUR WEAKNESSES AND STRENGTHS
Ask your friends what they think your weaknesses and strengths are. Work to improve your weaknesses and take advantage of your strengths when seeking out a problem which you want to try.

找到自己的优劣势

征询朋友的意见,让他们说说你的优势和劣势。在一条你想尝试的线路上,努力改善你的弱项,发挥你的优势。

VISUALIZE
Visualize yourself sending your project. Imagine how the holds feel to your fingers, how much weight to put on each foot, how to move your body. Invoke the feelings of trying hard and how much effort you need to release with each move. Go over the sequence again and again not just with your mind but with your body. Breathe in the feeling of satisfaction when you pull through to the finish. Imagine and believe.

"Imagination is everything. It is the preview of life's coming attractions."
~Albert Einstein

视觉化

想象你自己在完成线路。想象着手指触摸岩点的感觉,想象每只脚上分摊了多少身体的重量,想象如何优雅的做一个动作。调动情感努力攀爬,想象完成每一个动作你需要付出多少努力。一次又一次的重复动作序列,不只是在你的头脑中,同样要用你的身体(去做动作[读线时手舞足蹈])。呼吸,感觉自己能量满格,然后开始攀爬,完成线路。想象这个过程并且相信自己。

“想象力就是一切,它是生命中即将发生之事的预演。”
~爱因斯坦

WANT IT
Try really hard not because you have to, but because you WANT to. Want it like a passion that burns through you that won't be satisfied until you do it but remember that when it is done you still won't be satisfied. Try so hard that you aren't scared if your tips bleed. Give 101% on your send effort. Grunt. If all else fails, try harder.

Avoid excuses about the conditions and your performance. They contribute to weakness and are limiting. You can't change the external state of things so just deal with the internal and work with what you have.
And most of all; be determined. Be a fighter. Stick with it and remember why you're doing it. The journey is the reward not the destination.

热爱憧憬

努力付出,不是因为你不得不这样,而是因为对攀岩的热爱。渴望像激情一样燃烧着你,当你没有完成线路时,你不会满意。但是记住,即使完成了线路你还是不会停歇下来。你会继续尝试更难的线路,如果你不害怕指尖出血。付出101%的努力想要完成线路,如果一切都失败了,你会更加努力。

没有借口,无论是攀爬条件还是个人能力。这些借口只会让你产生缺陷和自我设限。你不能改变外部环境,所以只能认识自己、改变自己。

最重要的是:下定决心做一个斗士,坚持下去,并且记住你为什么要走上这条道路——过程就是最大的嘉奖而不是目的地。
作者: 树叉儿    时间: 2018-3-15 09:12

回复 1# 超然


"没有借口,无论是攀爬条件还是个人能力。这些借口只会让你产生缺陷和自我设限。你不能改变外部环境,所以只能认识自己、改变自己。"赞!攀岩如此,生活也如此




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