The first 2/3 of the route is super resistence maybe 9a+ by itself. Its super sustained with most of the the holds being small mini tufa pinches and slopey underclings . I really had to climb with a lot of rythm. The individual moves arent that bad but I fell so many times with my hands opening up totally pumped. After there is "ok" rest and maybe 8b+ or 8c to the top. Just before the finishing jug there is a slabby redpoint crux with slopey sidepulls far apart with really bad feet (two days before I fell there).
Im still a bit confused over the grade. Its definitly harder than Papichulo and all the other 9a+ routes Ive done in spain but Im not sure if its 9b. Aside from the mandatory cabron jump to a sloper on the lower section, the resistent style of climbing on the route isn't quite the best style for me and I can imagine other people being better suited. We'll see what people think. For now I'd say its hard 9a+.
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