jane 发表于 2012-7-17 06:18

Dongdong and Mugs Stump Award

Sanlian Peak (6684m), Sichuan, China
Steve Su will join Chinese climbers Yan Dongdong and Zhou Peng for a traverse of the three summits of this unclimbed peak. "I met Yan and Zhou on the recovery mission of my close friend Jonny Copp, who (along with Wade Johnson and Micah Dash) died in an avalanche off of Mt. Edgar in 2009," said Su. "Zhou and Yan were instrumental in that search. Ever since, I had been in touch with them, hoping to one day climb a peak together in China."

These climbers, and all of this year's Mugs Stump Award applicants, share Mugs' vision of climbing as a celebration of boldness, purity and simplicity. Past recipients include both well-known and relatively unheard-of alpinists pursuing objectives in Alaska, Patagonia, the Himalaya, the Rocky Mountains, Greenland and more.

http://mugsstumpaward.com/

Mugs Stump在1992年5月21日挂在Denali。他带了二个客人下山,三人绳队,Mugs 最后,到一道大冰缝前,客人不知如何是好,在缝边等他。后队变前队,Mugs走到冰缝边,咔嚓巨响,人不见了,绳子先是拉紧,然后松了(断了)。一人割断绳子,固定在ski pole上,然后降下去看,一个serac大小的冰雪坨子从crevasse的一侧断开(原来Mugs站着的地方),掉在/卡在冰缝,再往下看,说是有很多小块的冰和很多雪,大约60米看不到底。一点动静也没有了。生者二人中一人已经有冻伤,不敢多留,就放弃搜救,继续下撤。 第二天飞机巡视,证实二人的观察,因天气差,而且25小时之后生还机会无几而没有采取救援。Stump当年41岁。

Mugs Stump是一代大牛,他是Conrad Anker等一代人的师傅。他27小时solo Cassin Ridge, 开辟了mt. Roberson 上empror face的路线。
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